Seat Lowering Mod
07-30-2008, 06:00 PM
#32
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no
The motor that makes the seat go up and down travels along the threaded rod under the seat. The nut and washer on the end is the stop for the motor.
The only way to hurt anything would be to take the nut off and mve the seat all the way down so it comes off that rod, but I dont think its possible.
The G37 does not have an acorn nut like the 35s did. Its a 12mm flanged hex nut.
The motor that makes the seat go up and down travels along the threaded rod under the seat. The nut and washer on the end is the stop for the motor.
The only way to hurt anything would be to take the nut off and mve the seat all the way down so it comes off that rod, but I dont think its possible.
The G37 does not have an acorn nut like the 35s did. Its a 12mm flanged hex nut.
11-13-2011, 09:34 PM
#35
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11-19-2011, 01:43 PM
#36
Thanks mishmosh for the guide. I will attempt the mod this Sunday! I have couple of comments though. You mentioned that when you removed both thick and the raised washer, rubber bushing doesn't get compressed all the way. Does it mean that the motor assembly is being supported not by the washers but by the end of the thread? In this case it's not a safe setup, because all weight of the seat is being held back by last span of the thread, rather then evenly distributed on washer.
I'm considering keeping all the hardware, and just lowering the nut to the lowest position where it fully encompasses the thread. I agree with you that rubber bushing having it's own metal washers on both side might not necessitate a separate large washer. But I wonder if it's absence will put excessive pressure on the rubber bushing long term...
But again, we are all adults here and do all mods at our own risk. Thanks for the detailed DIY. I will post update on how mine goes.
I'm considering keeping all the hardware, and just lowering the nut to the lowest position where it fully encompasses the thread. I agree with you that rubber bushing having it's own metal washers on both side might not necessitate a separate large washer. But I wonder if it's absence will put excessive pressure on the rubber bushing long term...
But again, we are all adults here and do all mods at our own risk. Thanks for the detailed DIY. I will post update on how mine goes.
11-26-2011, 10:26 PM
#38
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Does it mean that the motor assembly is being supported not by the washers but by the end of the thread? In this case it's not a safe setup, because all weight of the seat is being held back by last span of the thread, rather then evenly distributed on washer.
I'm considering keeping all the hardware, and just lowering the nut to the lowest position where it fully encompasses the thread. I agree with you that rubber bushing having it's own metal washers on both side might not necessitate a separate large washer. But I wonder if it's absence will put excessive pressure on the rubber bushing long term...
I'm considering keeping all the hardware, and just lowering the nut to the lowest position where it fully encompasses the thread. I agree with you that rubber bushing having it's own metal washers on both side might not necessitate a separate large washer. But I wonder if it's absence will put excessive pressure on the rubber bushing long term...
06-16-2012, 10:30 AM
#39
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I just took delivery two days ago, and this is the first thing that I did. There's not really anything accessible from behind the seat on the G37, but there's a 12mm nut accessible from the front that has the same function. So, for the G37, the steps are something like:
1. Raise the seat up all the way and move it all the way back.
2. Look for a nut on a threaded rod underneath the seat, towards the front, pretty close to the door-side edge. It should be a rounded-top 12mm.
3. Loosen that nut as far as you feel comfortable (I used a screwdriver with a 12mm socket attached; I had to use a pair of vice grips on the screwdriver handle to get it moving, but from there on I was able to just turn it with my hand).
4. Make sure that the washer behind the nut moves forward with the nut.
5. Enjoy your additional headroom.
By moving the nut all the way to the end of the rod, I only got 1/4"-1/2" of additional headroom, but I'll take everything that I can get (6'6" tall). I might loosen it a bit more or take out the thick rubber washer in a little while if I decide that I need more headroom still.
1. Raise the seat up all the way and move it all the way back.
2. Look for a nut on a threaded rod underneath the seat, towards the front, pretty close to the door-side edge. It should be a rounded-top 12mm.
3. Loosen that nut as far as you feel comfortable (I used a screwdriver with a 12mm socket attached; I had to use a pair of vice grips on the screwdriver handle to get it moving, but from there on I was able to just turn it with my hand).
4. Make sure that the washer behind the nut moves forward with the nut.
5. Enjoy your additional headroom.
By moving the nut all the way to the end of the rod, I only got 1/4"-1/2" of additional headroom, but I'll take everything that I can get (6'6" tall). I might loosen it a bit more or take out the thick rubber washer in a little while if I decide that I need more headroom still.
I'm 5'10" and get bad back pains driving my 2011 g37xs coupe longer then a few minutes. It almost seems the steering wheel is too far away and the pedals are too close, and since I can't tilt the seat forward vertically enough (otherwise my head touches the ceiling) I must be slouching forward ever so slightly to reach the wheel. This becomes unbearable, I am thinking of purchasing some recaro sport seats, but I think I might end up with the same issue if they can't be lowered sufficiently either. I may have to sell this car and it's less then a month old!
11-24-2023, 03:28 PM
#40
I'm 12 years too late with my mod update, but thought I say that I did it and was able to lower my car seat that I could enjoy my time in it all these years! I'm 6'2" btw. Have not had any issues with my driver seat as a result of this mod. Have been raising and lowering it as needed. Since it has been so long I don't remember exactly which parts I removed and which ones I kept, but I'm pretty sure that the thick rubber had to go to give me max headroom. I've sat in the latest (2024?) coup version of successor to my car, and driver seat situation is even worse that it was in my stock G37. I don't know why Infiniti likes to eliminate tall drivers from its potential buyers.
Last edited by avsBuddy; 11-24-2023 at 03:35 PM.
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