Howdy, 2012 g37 xS sedan with bose. So I just installed an Orion 12 inch sub and a rockville 1000 watt mono block amp, I followed the wiring diagrams as found on this site. I can guarantee that my wiring is solid, no loose connections, no mixed polarity, I have checked every single wire at least 5x so far and everything is solid. However, when I start the car and the amp turns on, I get a very annoying whistling sound from the rear speakers. The sub and amp are both operating properly, good clean bass sound from the sub. I have installed several audio systems in the last 10 years or so and I have ran into literally every problem imaginable, and 100% of the time there is a solution. Someone please help me PLEASE it sounds so good at high volume nice and clean no distortion, but at lower volume you can hear the interference noise clearly. It does not get louder with engine RPM nor does it get louder with higher volume. It is directly related to the rca’s somehow because it stops when I unplug them from the amp. PS.... all my grounds are grounded like a drunk stepchild

 

First I think we know how you installed this. Did you tap the pre-amp signal wires to an RCA or does your amp have speaker level inputs?

My first guess to your problem would be that you tapped into a wire after the Bose amp. If not, does your amp accept differential balanced inputs? If not, that very well could your issue and you just need a converter.

Disclaimer: I’m not an audio pro but I’ve been doing a lot of research on the matter lately and about to do my instal as well.

 

Probably need to install a noise filter

Something like this

 

I followed this installation procedure to a T. https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...an-w-bose.html

 

Does your amp specifically state that it accepts differential balanced inputs? I’m guessing if you did everything properly then it doesn’t and that’s your issue.

 

Here is two examples of amps that have this but not all do. If your amp doesn’t have this, buy some adapters and that hopefully solves your problem. They are called a Tx-1A I think.

 

This is from Rockville’s website, it says something about differential circuitry but I’m not familiar with the terminology. It’s a class D monoblock amp, it doesn’t have any high output connections or settings.

 

So I just dropped opened her back up to inspect all wiring, and seriously I can’t find anything wrong. Both rear door speakers and giving a shrieking feedback sound, it’s not loud and you can’t hear it when the music starts playing, but ergh this isn’t a 1988 Honda Civic, my Infiniti shouldn’t be making funky noises like this. I split the rcas and went left pos left neg right pos right neg, easy peasy. Remote is connected, amp turns on no problem. Also I don’t know if this is relevant but this amp at 2ohm is rated at 600 watts rms, the sub is rated to handle 750, and it sounds like a kicker comp 10 (not very strong). It’s clean and crisp, no distortion, doesn’t cut on and off, but this electric hissing noise is driving me crazy. I had the remote wire and rca’s wrapped in loom to look neat coming out of the roof of the trunk and I even I did all that and separated the remote from the rca’s to make sure that wasn’t the source of the issue. I have exhausted all measures from my knowledge. Someone please help me please please please

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-shJhCu...ion_guide.html

 

I don’t see where this amp accepts balanced inputs. There is discussion in a post I’ve read before (it may be the post you linked) about someone having the same issue as you and they bought the TX-1A adapters and it fixed it. I would find that post (search TX-1A) and try those adapters. I’m 68% sure that’s your issue.

 

So in the midst of rewiring somehow I blew the Orion 12 so I gave in and took my car to a local installer and he said I needed a line output converter for my amp, which he installed along with a used 12in JL W3 and boy oh boy this thing is slamming. The cars audio is completely transformed now. I lowered the bass setting on the head unit and just turned the bass **** up and the bass is so clean and crisp even at almost max volume. I think the bose system has some type of bass level cap because the sub doesn’t get any louder at a certain point and the highs and mids NEVER get drowned out or distorted whatsoever. The bose system sounds very decent just factory but add a little bass especially ultra low frequency bass and it’s a whole different experience.

 

I highly doubt you actually needed a LOC but I’m glad you got it pumping good. I should be installing my 10w6 soon too. I have all the equipment ready to go, just need to do the deed.

 

I didn’t think so either since I tapped into the preamp speaker wires but hey I can’t say it didn’t work. I can’t tell at all that it’s affecting sound quality either. This single JL w1v3 on a little less than 300 watts in a 1.0cu sealed box sounds amazing. Super clean and surprisingly low and deep bass. Picks up 20hz tones not easily but still clear and clean. I think one more will be perfect.

 

From what I know it can be the grounding the best place I found d to put the ground is the back seat seat belt bolts it’s best to take sand paper to sand it down a little to make sure for the metal to metal contact .