I have 2011 manual IPL if that matters.

For speakers I want a 3-way component set up in the front (undecided on which, open for suggestions in the JL c5 range but those are my front runner now), matching coax 6x9 for the rear lid and some thump in the trunk. I have legit no idea how to handle the dash speaker and rear qtr panel speakers so I assume just delete them.



Next it’s my understanding that I cut the harness feeding the Bose amp and figure out which lines are for the front door speakers and link those into a LC7i. All we need is the fronts b/ we just need to grab the full signal to feed in and we can do that with just those 3 speaker level inputs (correct me if I’m wrong). There is only 6 inputs so I think the front is all you can input anyways (3 left and 3 right).



Then I run an RCA from the LC7i out to a JL XD 1000/5 Amp (and use 4 gauge power/ground for it) and run 14 Gauge out of the Amp to the the 4 XOs (4 channels, 1 per XO) which I plan to keep in the trunk (is it okay to just keep all the XOs near the amp in the trunk?) and run all the speaker outputs at 14 Gauge through the car from each XO to their respective components. Lastly I send 14 gauge from the 5th channel of the amp to a JL 12w6 in the trunk.

Does this sound right? Please correct me if I’m wrong anywhere and I appreciate any advice or criticisms.

 

That amp wont push your sub get a sep amp for sub

 

The factory (Bose) setup uses DSP to work with the left, center and right speakers to produce a pretty satisfactory stereo image. Replacing the left and right speakers, and the amps, without some consideration of that center speaker proposition might not result in as full a presentation. Bose worked with the interior and the speaker's radiation patterns to achieve a pretty good sound field, and just replacing things without considering these factors might result in a system that doesn't live up to the full possible potential.

I don't know what you could use in terms of DSP and drivers to utilize the center fill capability, but I think any serious redesign of the system ought to take that into consideration.

 

I don’t disagree but I don’t know to incorporate it without going active. My goal was to keep it simple and just use components with passive crossovers. I could maybe just leave the speaker alone and let it continue to work off of the stock amp.

 

That might be the easiest, and would be worth trying, especially if you had a level control you could use to adjust the new amplifiers to set the overall volume of the LEFT / RIGHT speakers in relation to that center fill.