Amp output wattage?
04-03-2017, 04:03 PM
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Amp output wattage?
What's up guys,
I wanted to know what our amp's output wattage per channel is? I want to replace some of the speakers and want to see if it's feasible to keep the factory amp.
I wanted to know what our amp's output wattage per channel is? I want to replace some of the speakers and want to see if it's feasible to keep the factory amp.
04-04-2017, 01:16 PM
#2
If you're adding speakers make sure they are the same impedance as the factory.
Bose is 2ohm and standard audio is 4 ohm.
I'm not sure on the wattage the amp puts out but if you are going to run decent speakers, I would install a new amp.
Bose is 2ohm and standard audio is 4 ohm.
I'm not sure on the wattage the amp puts out but if you are going to run decent speakers, I would install a new amp.
04-04-2017, 01:39 PM
#3
Bose system or regular?
Bose is kinda secretive about their specs.
if Bose, Infinity Kappa speakers are 2ohm. the Bose amp applies a (crappy) EQ, so you might want to replace it, too, for better sound, even if you're happy with the power output.
Bose is kinda secretive about their specs.
if Bose, Infinity Kappa speakers are 2ohm. the Bose amp applies a (crappy) EQ, so you might want to replace it, too, for better sound, even if you're happy with the power output.
05-03-2017, 08:39 AM
#4
Registered Member
Output power of Bose amps
Elsewhere in this forum, the figure of 375 watts is given.
That's the total power. In the sedan, the rear package shelf 10 inch woofer has a dedicated 100-watt class-D type amp. So, between the left / right mids, the left/right rear speakers, the left right front door woofers and the dash center speaker there is about 275 watts.
Audio power is a funny thing. The relationship between power and volume (loudness) is not linear, but logarithmic. To make a stereo TWICE as loud, you need TEN TIMES the power (10 dB). Doubling the amplifier power only raises the loudness by 3 dB. Keep that in mind.
So, if using the stock Bose speakers with a different amp, to get it twice as loud as stock, you'd need a total of 3,750 watts. Which would destroy all the speakers....
The best addition to a Bose setup is to disconnect the package shelf woofer (sedan) or woofers (coupe) and put a sealed-box single 12-inch in the trunk, with something like an Alpine MRV-M500. The 10-inch drivers in the doors are actually not bad above about 50 Hz, and the rest of the drivers are OK too, the problem is that you can't find better 3.5" drivers that will fit in the doors, and modifying the speaker mounting or making "pods" or etc to put other drivers in there is a HUGE amount of work and you risk ending up with something that doesn't sound as good as the stock Bose rig.
Replacing the door-mounted 10-inch drivers with 6.5 inch drivers doesn't really make sense to me. In the doors, there really isn't an enclosure so getting more bass from a 6.5" driver vs. the 10" driver is going to be tough.
If you want tighter, deeper bass, put a decent sub in the trunk. I used a Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 sub and an Alpine MRV-M500 amplifier; I disconnected the amplifier for the rear-shelf woofer and used the line level audio signal in the wiring that feeds that amp to drive the MRV-M500. I posted info on how I did this with pictures, schematics, links, and curves that I measures.... see https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...errerid=366426
That's the total power. In the sedan, the rear package shelf 10 inch woofer has a dedicated 100-watt class-D type amp. So, between the left / right mids, the left/right rear speakers, the left right front door woofers and the dash center speaker there is about 275 watts.
Audio power is a funny thing. The relationship between power and volume (loudness) is not linear, but logarithmic. To make a stereo TWICE as loud, you need TEN TIMES the power (10 dB). Doubling the amplifier power only raises the loudness by 3 dB. Keep that in mind.
So, if using the stock Bose speakers with a different amp, to get it twice as loud as stock, you'd need a total of 3,750 watts. Which would destroy all the speakers....
The best addition to a Bose setup is to disconnect the package shelf woofer (sedan) or woofers (coupe) and put a sealed-box single 12-inch in the trunk, with something like an Alpine MRV-M500. The 10-inch drivers in the doors are actually not bad above about 50 Hz, and the rest of the drivers are OK too, the problem is that you can't find better 3.5" drivers that will fit in the doors, and modifying the speaker mounting or making "pods" or etc to put other drivers in there is a HUGE amount of work and you risk ending up with something that doesn't sound as good as the stock Bose rig.
Replacing the door-mounted 10-inch drivers with 6.5 inch drivers doesn't really make sense to me. In the doors, there really isn't an enclosure so getting more bass from a 6.5" driver vs. the 10" driver is going to be tough.
If you want tighter, deeper bass, put a decent sub in the trunk. I used a Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 sub and an Alpine MRV-M500 amplifier; I disconnected the amplifier for the rear-shelf woofer and used the line level audio signal in the wiring that feeds that amp to drive the MRV-M500. I posted info on how I did this with pictures, schematics, links, and curves that I measures.... see https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...errerid=366426
05-03-2017, 11:50 AM
#5
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Elsewhere in this forum, the figure of 375 watts is given.
That's the total power. In the sedan, the rear package shelf 10 inch woofer has a dedicated 100-watt class-D type amp. So, between the left / right mids, the left/right rear speakers, the left right front door woofers and the dash center speaker there is about 275 watts.
Audio power is a funny thing. The relationship between power and volume (loudness) is not linear, but logarithmic. To make a stereo TWICE as loud, you need TEN TIMES the power (10 dB). Doubling the amplifier power only raises the loudness by 3 dB. Keep that in mind.
So, if using the stock Bose speakers with a different amp, to get it twice as loud as stock, you'd need a total of 3,750 watts. Which would destroy all the speakers....
The best addition to a Bose setup is to disconnect the package shelf woofer (sedan) or woofers (coupe) and put a sealed-box single 12-inch in the trunk, with something like an Alpine MRV-M500. The 10-inch drivers in the doors are actually not bad above about 50 Hz, and the rest of the drivers are OK too, the problem is that you can't find better 3.5" drivers that will fit in the doors, and modifying the speaker mounting or making "pods" or etc to put other drivers in there is a HUGE amount of work and you risk ending up with something that doesn't sound as good as the stock Bose rig.
Replacing the door-mounted 10-inch drivers with 6.5 inch drivers doesn't really make sense to me. In the doors, there really isn't an enclosure so getting more bass from a 6.5" driver vs. the 10" driver is going to be tough.
If you want tighter, deeper bass, put a decent sub in the trunk. I used a Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 sub and an Alpine MRV-M500 amplifier; I disconnected the amplifier for the rear-shelf woofer and used the line level audio signal in the wiring that feeds that amp to drive the MRV-M500. I posted info on how I did this with pictures, schematics, links, and curves that I measures.... see https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...errerid=366426
That's the total power. In the sedan, the rear package shelf 10 inch woofer has a dedicated 100-watt class-D type amp. So, between the left / right mids, the left/right rear speakers, the left right front door woofers and the dash center speaker there is about 275 watts.
Audio power is a funny thing. The relationship between power and volume (loudness) is not linear, but logarithmic. To make a stereo TWICE as loud, you need TEN TIMES the power (10 dB). Doubling the amplifier power only raises the loudness by 3 dB. Keep that in mind.
So, if using the stock Bose speakers with a different amp, to get it twice as loud as stock, you'd need a total of 3,750 watts. Which would destroy all the speakers....
The best addition to a Bose setup is to disconnect the package shelf woofer (sedan) or woofers (coupe) and put a sealed-box single 12-inch in the trunk, with something like an Alpine MRV-M500. The 10-inch drivers in the doors are actually not bad above about 50 Hz, and the rest of the drivers are OK too, the problem is that you can't find better 3.5" drivers that will fit in the doors, and modifying the speaker mounting or making "pods" or etc to put other drivers in there is a HUGE amount of work and you risk ending up with something that doesn't sound as good as the stock Bose rig.
Replacing the door-mounted 10-inch drivers with 6.5 inch drivers doesn't really make sense to me. In the doors, there really isn't an enclosure so getting more bass from a 6.5" driver vs. the 10" driver is going to be tough.
If you want tighter, deeper bass, put a decent sub in the trunk. I used a Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 sub and an Alpine MRV-M500 amplifier; I disconnected the amplifier for the rear-shelf woofer and used the line level audio signal in the wiring that feeds that amp to drive the MRV-M500. I posted info on how I did this with pictures, schematics, links, and curves that I measures.... see https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...errerid=366426
Hey man. Very detailed response. Very knowledgeable. Just also read your other post where you analyze the Bose system. So for starters, I installed two 10's sealed on 1000 Watts. Coming from 2 12's, it's just barely loud enough. I'm a bass head haha. Either way, don't know how people can get by without an aftermarket sub.
I am looking to do something with the mids and highs. At the higher volumes I frequently listen at, my speakers crackle a lot. I think they are reaching their mechanical limits or something. Overall I think SQ is quite good, but this problem is very annoying. For a while, I've been trying to decide whether to do a complete overhaul of the system; that is, remove the 10" door woofers and all of the mids, get an amp and run 6.75"'s in the doors and 5.25"s in the rear deck (Option 1). OR just doing drop in replacements for the mids and tweeters (Option 2). I've decided to not go with option 2 because as you discussed in your other post I think, that just won't work well.. The crackling would probably go away, but with adding any additional power, the sq difference would be marginal. In fact, the power going to the speakers would be a tad less as the factory mids are ~3.5 ohms versus the 4ohms of most speakers.
And in regards to option 1, I feel like it's not wise to downright get rid of the 10" woofers. As you mentioned, I feel like they would produce much more and better mid bass than any 6.5"s. That is, from ~100Hz to ~250 hz. Because of the introduction of my subs, considering maybe adding bass blockers to the 10" doors to high pass them at that 100H and let my subs do 100 and below. On top of that, I feel like the sound staging of the 2.8" mids up near our ears and in the center, is desirable.
So with that said, I reach option 3. Keep the 10" door woofers and 6x9" rear deck woofers (coupe) and the center dash mid, all on the factory amp. Get a 4 channel amp, much less powerful than if I was going 6.75's in the door and 5.25's in the rear, for aftermarket mids/tweeters up front and some 3.5's in the rear quarter panel. So rather than getting a 4x100W amp, which is what I would have done, I can get a 4x50, more or less, and still utilize much of the factory power. The hard part is finding the right mids and tweeters for up front in terms of not only what will sound nice, but what will fit.
Thoughts?
05-03-2017, 03:38 PM
#6
This is not an easy car to upgrade speakers in. I'm slowly collecting everything needed, but its a fairly low priority for me - so it will be awhile. My plan is something like this:
Factory Headunit (Bose+Navigation) -> Aftermarket DSP (possibly x2 MiniDSPs) -> Aftermarket Amps -> Aftermarket Speakers.
Also, if you have 2 10s and 1000 watts and its not loud enough for you, you are doing something wrong. I've been in a car with a single 12 and 750 watts and at full volume listening to bass heavy material, it was barely driveable. You certainly couldnt discern anything useful from the rear view mirrors.
Factory Headunit (Bose+Navigation) -> Aftermarket DSP (possibly x2 MiniDSPs) -> Aftermarket Amps -> Aftermarket Speakers.
Also, if you have 2 10s and 1000 watts and its not loud enough for you, you are doing something wrong. I've been in a car with a single 12 and 750 watts and at full volume listening to bass heavy material, it was barely driveable. You certainly couldnt discern anything useful from the rear view mirrors.
05-03-2017, 04:36 PM
#7
Registered Member
Hard to find mids that fit
It's hard to find midrange drivers that fit the factory location in the doors. Not much depth is available. I'm told that B2 REF63 drivers fit, but I do not know that for a fact. I know nothing of the sound quality of these drivers, either. But, like I said, it's hard to find drivers that fit, these being the only ones I've heard of that do.
You must be listening really loud! Seriously, be careful you don't damage your hearing. Get an app to use your phone as a sound pressure level meter, and get the Dayton Audio calibrated mic [ https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...droid--390-810 ] for like $18. (You can also use this mic with your cellphone to measure frequency response of your car's system. It's fairly accurate. Use the bluetooth interface to get the audio sweep tone from the phone to the car's stereo.... )
Anyway, check those sound pressure levels in your car against the levels that cause hearing loss located at this link =>
Permissible Exposure Time for Noise SPL sound pressure level and duration Guidelines How long can a person endure a certain noise level before hearing damage occurs health sound level noise hearing ears impairment tinnitus damage - sengpielaudio Seng
You must be listening really loud! Seriously, be careful you don't damage your hearing. Get an app to use your phone as a sound pressure level meter, and get the Dayton Audio calibrated mic [ https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...droid--390-810 ] for like $18. (You can also use this mic with your cellphone to measure frequency response of your car's system. It's fairly accurate. Use the bluetooth interface to get the audio sweep tone from the phone to the car's stereo.... )
Anyway, check those sound pressure levels in your car against the levels that cause hearing loss located at this link =>
Permissible Exposure Time for Noise SPL sound pressure level and duration Guidelines How long can a person endure a certain noise level before hearing damage occurs health sound level noise hearing ears impairment tinnitus damage - sengpielaudio Seng
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05-03-2017, 07:25 PM
#9
Registered Member
05-03-2017, 07:28 PM
#10
Registered Member
Thread Starter
For the rear panel, pretty much any 3.5" speaker will fit. For the fronts, it gets interesting. Bose chose a unique 2.8" speaker for the left right and center speakers.
A lot of the ones found here I'm sure can fit fine, after a bit of modification. But then again, haven't considered depth that much.
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/mi...%5D&PortalID=1
A lot of the ones found here I'm sure can fit fine, after a bit of modification. But then again, haven't considered depth that much.
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/mi...%5D&PortalID=1
05-03-2017, 07:36 PM
#11
Registered Member
In the sedan, the rear doors have 6.5" drivers in them, and there's enough room for most aftermarket 6.5's. I put Polk 2-way 6.5's in the back, it improved clarity, but the sound in the back isn't really all that great. Having some sound come from the back 6.5's doesn't really add anything good to the sound in front either, and I find if I fade the levels to favor the rear, the sound is poor in the front. Having some sound from the 6.5's in the rear seems to have no audible impact on what things sound like from the drivers seat, so I usually leave the front / rear control set to just about the middle of the indicator, maybe just favoring "front" a little.
What does the coupe have in the walls for the back passengers to hear?
What does the coupe have in the walls for the back passengers to hear?
05-03-2017, 07:50 PM
#12
Registered Member
Thread Starter
In the sedan, the rear doors have 6.5" drivers in them, and there's enough room for most aftermarket 6.5's. I put Polk 2-way 6.5's in the back, it improved clarity, but the sound in the back isn't really all that great. Having some sound come from the back 6.5's doesn't really add anything good to the sound in front either, and I find if I fade the levels to favor the rear, the sound is poor in the front. Having some sound from the 6.5's in the rear seems to have no audible impact on what things sound like from the drivers seat, so I usually leave the front / rear control set to just about the middle of the indicator, maybe just favoring "front" a little.
What does the coupe have in the walls for the back passengers to hear?
What does the coupe have in the walls for the back passengers to hear?
05-03-2017, 08:03 PM
#13
Registered Member
>>What are your thoughts on what I'm thinking of doing? Keeping the 10's in each front door and the center channel running off of the factory amp. And replacing the factory 2.8" door mids and tweeters, and the just mentioned rear panel 3.5's, with higher quality drivers, powered off of a 4 channel amp?<<
I think the whole design as you've laid it out here hinges on what you are going to use to replace those 2.8" drivers. Not sure what you can find for those, and they will have a big impact on the overall sound. You'll have to listen to how they sound when used with the existing center-dash driver, That center driver plays a role in the sound up front.
I think the whole design as you've laid it out here hinges on what you are going to use to replace those 2.8" drivers. Not sure what you can find for those, and they will have a big impact on the overall sound. You'll have to listen to how they sound when used with the existing center-dash driver, That center driver plays a role in the sound up front.
05-03-2017, 08:26 PM
#14
Registered Member
Thread Starter
>>What are your thoughts on what I'm thinking of doing? Keeping the 10's in each front door and the center channel running off of the factory amp. And replacing the factory 2.8" door mids and tweeters, and the just mentioned rear panel 3.5's, with higher quality drivers, powered off of a 4 channel amp?<<
I think the whole design as you've laid it out here hinges on what you are going to use to replace those 2.8" drivers. Not sure what you can find for those, and they will have a big impact on the overall sound. You'll have to listen to how they sound when used with the existing center-dash driver, That center driver plays a role in the sound up front.
I think the whole design as you've laid it out here hinges on what you are going to use to replace those 2.8" drivers. Not sure what you can find for those, and they will have a big impact on the overall sound. You'll have to listen to how they sound when used with the existing center-dash driver, That center driver plays a role in the sound up front.
Last edited by HotSawce; 05-03-2017 at 08:35 PM.
05-03-2017, 08:35 PM
#15
For the rear panel, pretty much any 3.5" speaker will fit. For the fronts, it gets interesting. Bose chose a unique 2.8" speaker for the left right and center speakers.
A lot of the ones found here I'm sure can fit fine, after a bit of modification. But then again, haven't considered depth that much.
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/mi...%5D&PortalID=1
A lot of the ones found here I'm sure can fit fine, after a bit of modification. But then again, haven't considered depth that much.
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/mi...%5D&PortalID=1
I would personally be wary of just adding an amp to some of the factory speakers. It could work well and it could sound like doo doo. Thats why my plan involves using a DSP (maybe 2 - lots of channels in these cars) so that I can control exactly what each speaker is up to. I don't know if you've seen it, but if you google "The Art of JDM Sound G37" you can see a full tilt build similar to what I'm describing (although with a much higher budget than I'm planning).