JPL

So I purchased a set of used paddle shifters from another member of this forum, My 2012 AWD sedan is wired for paddle switches and the two little harnesses were tied up under the steering column cowl as suggested in the DIY. I installed along with appropriate new steering wheel shroud etc. When I try use them however, in DS mode, the left downshift paddle - works perfectly. The right up-shift paddle + does not work at all. I thought perhaps I had failed to seat the connection plug all the way in, so I disassembled and checked all connections tight and proper. So my question, is there a way to bench test the RH paddle switch? Do these paddle switches have a history of failure? I can go out and source a replacement RH paddle and try again, but it will be just wasted money if the paddle switch is not the problem. Any ideas what else I should check? does anyone know where the paddle switch harnesses go from under the steering column...is it possible there is a sub-harness unplugged down stream? BTW the DS mode on my 7 speed AT works fine when I use the normal gear selector in the center console.
Cheers,
JP

Carboy37

It's a very unusual problem, but one thing to try is to try a multimeter to see if both paddle shifter connectors have power? My guess if one doesn't have power, it's a connector issue; if they both have power, it's a paddle issue.

JPL

Thanks for your reply Carboy37. I will check for power (12V) at each harness connection before deciding to purchase a replacement paddle.

Cheers
JP

Quinn Pitts

I’m having the same problem, did you figure out what the issue was? Thanks

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

The paddle shifters are nothing more than simple, momentary, NO (normally open) switches that pass a GROUND signal to the AC Amp when you pull the paddle. The paddles for these cars are pretty durable but any switch can fail.

Do you have a digital multimeter and do you know how to check for continuity? If so, disconnect the harness connector at the problem shifter and probe the two terminals of the shifter, not the wiring connector.

- without touching the paddle the meter should real OL (open line).
- pull the shifter and hold it back while probing the same two terminals. The meter should read continuity (circuit closed/switch good). If the meter still reads OL then the switch is bad.

Ignore the previous posts checking for 12V+ at the harness. That is not how this system operates.

Both paddles share the same wiring harness and common ground. If one shifter works and the other does not, then, again, that shifter is likely bad.