AuthorizedUser

Within 2 months, three of my power locks stopped working. One stopped, then a few weeks later, the second stopped, then a few weeks later, the third stopped. The past several months for this car have been ordinary and routine.

By "stop", I really mean they rarely actuate. If I'm lucky, they will lock or unlock when requested, but most of the time, they either don't move or barely move. This happens regardless of use of remote, exterior door switch, or interior switch.

Has anyone else had this happen?

If I am reasonably handy, is actuator replacement that hard?

Is there anything I should check before just buying and replacing solenoids?

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

If the actuators are really bad theres a DIY on here on removing the door panel and you should be able to see the acutators and replace them at that point but if they're working intermittantly and or moving partially maybe try lubricating the mechanisms with a dry graphite lubricant before diving into full replacementas it may just be that they need to be lubricated. you may have to apply it several time to get it to work into the latches

AuthorizedUser

Thank you. This is a 2010 model, so I can see a case that 8.5 year old actuators may go out. When I got the car in 2013, the driver's door actuator failed. That one is failing again, as are two others.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I am assuming you have a sedan as you mentioned 3 power lock solenoids stopped or are working intermittently. I checked the FSM for my car ('08 Coupe- though the info should be the same across the platform) and based on that info:

The power door lock solenoids receive power from the Body Control Module (BCM). I would check the wiring/connectors at the BCM as it could be a loose
connector, minor corrosion, etc.

While the chances of a door lock solenoid going out is fairly uncommon, the odds of 3 going out within a short period of time are astronomical.

Hope some of this helps.

AuthorizedUser

Thank you. Just to be difficult , if the BCM was going out, wouldn't I see additional symptoms?

Is the BCM inside the driver's area left kick panel? I'd be amazed if anything is corroded in there. This car has been in Texas its whole life, so corrosion issues common in other states do not apply here.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

The BCM is located in the front, passenger-side footwell/kick panel on the right-hand side behind a plastic panel.

You indicated that the problem persists regardless of using the remote, the interior door lock switches, and/or the exterior door request buttons. As the lock solenoids are connected to the BCM, this is why I suggested checking those connectors. While this may not be the problem, it is easier to check than tearing the doors apart and replacing parts.

Just because the car is in Texas does not make the car immune to moisture. Some of these cars are notorious for clogged sunroof drain tubes leaking onto the BCM. Then there is the improperly sealed harness grommet which is known to leak when it rains. Unlikely, but possible just the same.

It just seems strange that the actuators would all kick the bucket at relatively the same time....

AuthorizedUser

Everything seemed clean and dry and corrosion free. I reseated all connectors and found no issues.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Perhaps someone else can chime in with other suggestions. Here is a link for the DLK (Door/Lock) section of the FSM for your car (2010 Sedan), hopefully that might offer some additional insight:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Sedan/2010/DLK.pdf

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

AuthorizedUser

This is good. From the DLK manual, I see I should first check the voltage to the actuator for both the lock and unlock wires. Looks like the door finisher has to come off. Ugh.

Per http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Sedan/2010/INT.pdf page INT-12, "When removing, always use a remover tool that is made of plastic." What do you recommend for this tool? I have a metal one I used to use on my old Chevrolet Nova. I think I have all other needed tools.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I just use my fingers to pop the clips. The door panel comes off relatively easy. As for tools, I have a old metal putty knife that I have covered in electric tape. Yes, it is unorthodox but for those stubborn clips it provides perfect leverage. You should be able to do something similar with your trim tool if need be.