Help Complete System 2011 G37x Sedan
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From: Springvale, ME
Complete System 2011 G37x Sedan
Since I've decided not to add Nitrous I have extra room in my budget. Now I'm working on my stereo as the stock Bose system is not good enough for my tastes. Anyways I've had aftermarket stereo's installed in all of my prior vehicles and since I've modded this one so much it's almost ridiculous not to upgrade the stereo. Enough of my ramblings. This is what I have now.
Image Dynamics IDMAX124 Sub.
Enclosures Single 12 Box
Kicker CX1200.1 Amp
StreetWires 0/1 Wiring Kit
XSPower D3400R
What I want to add:
High Quality 6.5" 2-way component set up front (I'll get modded door trim to reduce 10" opening to 6.5")
6.5" coaxials for the rear (looking to go with the same brand as the fronts)
High Quality 4 channel amp for speakers
Questions:
Should I get a DSP? What brand to you recommend?
My overall additional budget is an extra $2,000.00 so with that what speakers, amp, DSP (if necessary) would you recommend? Any other ideas on EQ I should look into? I'll have a quality installer handle installation. Do you think running a distributor block to my 0/1 wiring an running 4 gauge to my sub amp and 4-8 gauge to my speaker amp will suffice? I'm open to ideas to get the best bang for my buck. I want a high powered SQ system that can get loud too. I listen to mainly Metal, Rock and Blues Rock.
Image Dynamics IDMAX124 Sub.
Enclosures Single 12 Box
Kicker CX1200.1 Amp
StreetWires 0/1 Wiring Kit
XSPower D3400R
What I want to add:
High Quality 6.5" 2-way component set up front (I'll get modded door trim to reduce 10" opening to 6.5")
6.5" coaxials for the rear (looking to go with the same brand as the fronts)
High Quality 4 channel amp for speakers
Questions:
Should I get a DSP? What brand to you recommend?
My overall additional budget is an extra $2,000.00 so with that what speakers, amp, DSP (if necessary) would you recommend? Any other ideas on EQ I should look into? I'll have a quality installer handle installation. Do you think running a distributor block to my 0/1 wiring an running 4 gauge to my sub amp and 4-8 gauge to my speaker amp will suffice? I'm open to ideas to get the best bang for my buck. I want a high powered SQ system that can get loud too. I listen to mainly Metal, Rock and Blues Rock.
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All of the 1200 RMS amps I have used in the past have accepted 4ga power so I would assume you would be fine splitting the 0ga if you wanted to. Personally I would just make another run of 8ga. There are so many speaker brands out now but one of my favorites for awhile has been CDT audio for a good bang for the buck but still above average quality. Do you want another kicker amp to keep that theme or just a decent A/B amp? Soundqubed has a good 4 channel for like $250.
The hardware is important but one of the biggest sound improvements on my last car was actually sealing the doors correctly and dampening. Don't overlook that area.
The hardware is important but one of the biggest sound improvements on my last car was actually sealing the doors correctly and dampening. Don't overlook that area.
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Indianapolis->Charlotte
Yes definitely seal doors and rear shelf is a must (and trunk lid last). Seal the openings in the doors too. This is $/HP like adding an intake to the VQ.
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products
DIYMA.com - Car Audio Forum & 12 volt Community Board can help a lot. Stuff you have never heard of sounds great but people who recommend speakers don't have your ears.
DSP makes all the difference.
Since you have/like Kicker KICKER | IQ500.4 Amplifier; DSP and amp but can only get in certain places and no one at DIY can make any dirt stick to it even with the Kicker name. I may end up with it.
Spend more time listening to and money picking the speakers since they are harder to install and actually produce the sound. Does that $2k include install?
The best recommendation again is listen to speakers and with YOUR music. I have heard a lot and personally I like:
HSK 165 - Hertz Hi-Energy car audio speakers system
Their MLK is some of the SQ poop but sadly I can't hear that much money.
With SDS, Hertz (F/R), and Kicker you should be under or at 2k w/o install. Also the wire in the stock audio system should be enough for the above. Unless your competing ($2k isn't competing) it's fine and don't let them run wires - $$$! Unless your going to start imaging, delaying, multi amp, yadda, yadda. And yes, 0 gage is more than enough to add another 1000+ amp.
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products
DIYMA.com - Car Audio Forum & 12 volt Community Board can help a lot. Stuff you have never heard of sounds great but people who recommend speakers don't have your ears.
DSP makes all the difference.
Since you have/like Kicker KICKER | IQ500.4 Amplifier; DSP and amp but can only get in certain places and no one at DIY can make any dirt stick to it even with the Kicker name. I may end up with it.
Spend more time listening to and money picking the speakers since they are harder to install and actually produce the sound. Does that $2k include install?
The best recommendation again is listen to speakers and with YOUR music. I have heard a lot and personally I like:
HSK 165 - Hertz Hi-Energy car audio speakers system
Their MLK is some of the SQ poop but sadly I can't hear that much money.
With SDS, Hertz (F/R), and Kicker you should be under or at 2k w/o install. Also the wire in the stock audio system should be enough for the above. Unless your competing ($2k isn't competing) it's fine and don't let them run wires - $$$! Unless your going to start imaging, delaying, multi amp, yadda, yadda. And yes, 0 gage is more than enough to add another 1000+ amp.
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From: Springvale, ME
What DSP do you guys recommend? I will need one I can run two Amps off of. Where in the system should I connect the DSP? Also if I'm running 100-125rms to each set of speakers the stock wiring is sufficient? 2k is without install. That's my budget for the rest of the gear. For speakers I'm considring Hertz, JL, JBL GTI, Image Dynamics. For 4 channel amp I was likely going with Kicker as I've read nothing but good reviews regarding their Amps but I'm open to specific suggestions once I nail down my speakers.
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From: Indianapolis->Charlotte
That Kicker as the ability to run another amp. Sub? It has an output.
Audison Prima - AP4.9 bit Mono output
and if you are bent on going separate Audison bit - bit Ten D
I'm going to shave off the rest and stick with Hertz or ID in that order for my taste.
and if you are bent on going separate Audison bit - bit Ten D
I'm going to shave off the rest and stick with Hertz or ID in that order for my taste.
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From: Springvale, ME
I'm leaning towards Hertz HSK 165XL and HCX 165 for the rear doors. Preferably powered by a Hertz HDP 4.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
Registered Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 958
Likes: 82
From: Indianapolis->Charlotte
I'm leaning towards Hertz HSK 165XL and HCX 165 for the rear doors. Preferably powered by a Hertz HDP 4.
>>>Those are awesome.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
>>>Yes, but they will tell you no. But that is about the limit of what I would use.
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
>>>If you have an aftermarket HU otherwise you will tap out of the amp under the rear shelf and it doesn't have RCA.
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
>>>You will have to if you use the OE wiring which is no problem.
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
>>>That is a question for your installer. For me it would be two full days but I only do it on the side.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
>>>Rattling comes from the the door panel/components and the stuff in the panels. The deadening stuff just quiets the tin sound of the door. Lie it does when you close it, it sounds hollow and like a beer can when you flick it.
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
>>>Those are awesome.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
>>>Yes, but they will tell you no. But that is about the limit of what I would use.
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
>>>If you have an aftermarket HU otherwise you will tap out of the amp under the rear shelf and it doesn't have RCA.
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
>>>You will have to if you use the OE wiring which is no problem.
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
>>>That is a question for your installer. For me it would be two full days but I only do it on the side.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
>>>Rattling comes from the the door panel/components and the stuff in the panels. The deadening stuff just quiets the tin sound of the door. Lie it does when you close it, it sounds hollow and like a beer can when you flick it.
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 958
Likes: 82
From: Indianapolis->Charlotte
I'm leaning towards Hertz HSK 165XL and HCX 165 for the rear doors. Preferably powered by a Hertz HDP 4.
>>>Those are awesome.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
>>>Yes, but they will tell you no. But that is about the limit of what I would use.
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
>>>If you have an aftermarket HU otherwise you will tap out of the amp under the rear shelf and it doesn't have RCA.
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
>>>You will have to if you use the OE wiring which is no problem.
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
>>>That is a question for your installer. For me it would be two full days but I only do it on the side.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
>>>Rattling comes from the the door panel/components and the stuff in the panels. The deadening stuff just quiets the tin sound of the door. Lie it does when you close it, it sounds hollow and like a beer can when you flick it.
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
>>>Those are awesome.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
>>>Yes, but they will tell you no. But that is about the limit of what I would use.
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
>>>If you have an aftermarket HU otherwise you will tap out of the amp under the rear shelf and it doesn't have RCA.
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
>>>You will have to if you use the OE wiring which is no problem.
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
>>>That is a question for your installer. For me it would be two full days but I only do it on the side.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
>>>Rattling comes from the the door panel/components and the stuff in the panels. The deadening stuff just quiets the tin sound of the door. Lie it does when you close it, it sounds hollow and like a beer can when you flick it.
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
I'm leaning towards Hertz HSK 165XL and HCX 165 for the rear doors. Preferably powered by a Hertz HDP 4.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
Will the stock speaker wire handling 150WRMS?
Where should I wire in the DSP? tap into speaker outs from back of headunit? Then run RCA's to my Sub and speaker amps?
If I used the Audison bit ten D would I still need to use crossovers for the front components?
How difficult and time consuming of an install is this? I'm likely going to have a Pro install it, but I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into before I start buying more stuff.
Lastly, would amplifier Pro from the opening to about a foot around the speakers mounted position be sufficient to prevent unwanted rattling?
I appreciate any and all advice. These questions are important for me to understand so I can begin to put together an awesome sound system.
I would run new wires to the doors. You have to drill new holes in the molex plug in the doors. It's not easy but it's worth the time and effort.
I would only tap into the front speakers. The rear speaker output is very weak.
Difficulty varies on what you want to do and how much tuning you want to do. I'm still tuning mine
It's a DIY project but will take a large amount of time.
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So if I run the Bit Ten D i only need to tap into the OEM rear amp for the speakers? What about for the Sub?
Which side of the amp(s) (input or output)?
I'm also a bit confused on the no RCA's. Wouldn't I be running RCA's from the Bit Ten D to my two amp's?
What wires did you tap into in the rear to connect your Bit Ten D? If you could go into detail here it would be hugely beneficial to me and others I'm sure.
Which side of the amp(s) (input or output)?
I'm also a bit confused on the no RCA's. Wouldn't I be running RCA's from the Bit Ten D to my two amp's?
What wires did you tap into in the rear to connect your Bit Ten D? If you could go into detail here it would be hugely beneficial to me and others I'm sure.
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 958
Likes: 82
From: Indianapolis->Charlotte
Wire taps on front speaker output on the back of the HU (regular wires) -> bit 10 -> RCA to amps (sub is mono)
If you search there are many write-ups for this here that are very good.
If you search there are many write-ups for this here that are very good.
Registered Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 958
Likes: 82
From: Indianapolis->Charlotte
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