I currently have 1 Rockford Fosgate P2 10" being pushed by a 250 watt RF amp as well in a Zenclosure box. I am thinking about upgrading to a JL Audio 10w3 with a JL JX500.1d amp. Has anyone used this combo in their G and if so how did it sound?

 

I have this exact setup in my G. Sounds great in my car.

 

The JX500 drives about 300W @4ohms, so it's right in the sweet spot for the 10W3v3-4. If you run the JX500 at 2ohms, it pushes about 500W, which may void the warranty of the 10W3v3-2 (2ohm version of the same driver).

Both share the same specs: http://www.jlaudio.com/10w3v3-4-car-...92151]10W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

Why are you swapping out the Rockford Fosgate setup?

Note that the JL lineup in general requires alot of power based on lower efficiency.

If you want to get more SPL (sound pressure) out of your existing setup, the easiest thing to do is to first run your amp at 2ohms (if capable) and then find a more efficient driver.

For example, the 1062w from Infinity (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zfrVjF4...ity-1062w.html) is 91 dB vs ~85 dB for the 10W3v3-4.

Because the 1062w offers a full 6 dB better sensitivity, it will require less power to equal the same SPL as the JL driver.

dB is logarithmic, so small changes in sensitivity (i.e. 3 dB is double) can make a big difference in the final output of your system.

Food for thought: https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...9193419AAx2X78

 

I mainly wanted to change it because my wife wants some bump in her TSX and I wanted some cleaner bass. I ended up finding a JL 500/1v2 barely used for $150 and ordered a JL 10w3v3 2 ohm. I have the Zenclosure box and it is almost exactly the specs they recommend for the W3. I just replaced the R2 (not P2 o.O) with the W3 to break it in. I currently have 8AWG power and ground wires and my 4AWG kit won't be in until the work week so I figured I'd just break the W3 in before I put the 500/1v2 in. Just with the sub being changed I notice much cleaner, tighter and lower bass hits, can't wait to put the 500/1 on that beast.

 

The reason I went with the Slash is because I got it for a steal. I have a LC2i so keeping it from pushing the W3 too hard will be easy and also give me the option to upgrade to a W6 in the future if I find a good deal on one.

 

Was it an R2D2 (2 ohm) or R2D4 (4 ohm) 10" sub?

I ask because the only RF 250W sub amp I'm aware of is this one: PRIME Amplifiers - R250X1 - Rockford Fosgate®

It's rated at 250W (2 ohms). If you were driving the R2D4 with this one, you would probably be sending closer to 150-175W to that driver. Then, when you introduce the new 2 ohm JL sub, the power would increase into it, explaining the difference you are hearing.

 

It was a R2D4. Had it bridged down to 2 ohms. I'm not going for SPL as much as SQ. I have the stock bose setup and don't think it would be able to hang well with a super loud sub. That's why I think the W6 would probably be too much for it without a re-do of the components.

 

I agree that there's a fine line between supplementing and overwhelming the factory Bose system. I have a JL WXv2 10 in a custom box with a JX250 Amp (175W into 4 ohms) and it's perfect for most types of music. CDs sound great as well.

 

How did you guys wire the RCA for the amp? I've tried every suggestion on the forums and still nothing. Could someone take a few pics of the amp plug and the wires that were tapped into??

 

Look at post #46 in this thread (considered "the Bible" for adding a sub/amp to the factory Bose system): https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...eakdown-4.html

I also used #20 for Amp Power-On. The wires in the harness you need to tap into are very small and fragile (22 gauge?), so I did not want to screw anything up (wire taps for this size wire do not work well) and took it too a local car stereo shop; after some discussion (they will insist on a LOC initially), they agreed with my approach. Works perfectly. They wrapped everything back up so it looks factory, so it would be tough to unwrap and take a pic.