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g37s coupe adding subwoofer issue

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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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g37s coupe adding subwoofer issue

i have researched how to install an additional amp and subwoofer to the bose system. i know its b41 connector pins 33-36 for front or 23-26 for rear. i have pulled my accessory 12volt connection from a pin on the harness in the passenger side of the trunk. the issue im having is that when i was trying to hook up my speaker level inputs to the 33-36 lines my bose set up bass went to crap (it barely hit even with the bass all the way up). i used taps to get into the wires but when i pulled them off the right side started working but the left hasnt returned to the same as the right. i have pushed the cables back into the connector pins (they didnt move) and i felt the boss male clip and nothing seemed bent.

any ideas what would cause this? any tips would be great.

i have done the exact same thing i did to my 350z with bose stereo and its definitely not producing the same amount of bass.

please help.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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Update. I pulled off all of my cables and taped up the factory wires and the Bose system went back to normal. But when I touch my speaker lines to the Bose lines whatever side I touch goes down.

Any advice? I've never had this problem in all of the cars I've done before this one.
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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can you bypass the bose set up entirely?

try getting the signal from behind the headunit before any bose processing.

are you going from the bose amp to the input of an amp or processor?
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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I am pulling the signal coming from the head unit going into the Bose amplifier. And I am taking that connection into my speaker level to RCA converter. But when I touch my cables to the stock wires the front Bose speakers lost almost all of their bass.
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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I tried using the 23-26 wires when I installed my sub. Didn't work. For some reason my amp couldn't get a strong enough signal to make any appreciable volume. I then used the 8 and 9 wires (signal for the factory sub) spliced them into an RCA cable and put them directly into the low level input on the amp. Everything (including the factory Bose system) worked perfectly after that.
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 11:01 PM
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But I would need a high/low converter for that no?
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hamwich
But I would need a high/low converter for that no?
I bought these to tap into wires 8 & 9 of the bose subwoofer amp. And everything works fine. Since they come in a pack of two, i wired both negatives and positive together and just wired them into wires 8 and 9.

BTW i have Bose with navigation

Amazon.com: JL AUDIO XD-CLRAIC2-SW RCA to SPEAKER WIRE PLUGS: Car Electronics Amazon.com: JL AUDIO XD-CLRAIC2-SW RCA to SPEAKER WIRE PLUGS: Car Electronics
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 02:54 PM
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I've noticed that the rears seem to have way less outputs than the fronts

I cant remember the exact voltage but im pretty sure I made a post about it.

The rears were so weak that I could barley get a reading when tryin to hook up an infinity bass link.

Are you tapping into the front or rear output?
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 04:41 PM
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I have Bose with navigation and back up camera. I don't have a DVD player is the only option not in mine. But I was using the link below version 1 to tap into the fronts at the Bose amp but in the connection before the Bose messed with it. But as soon as I touched my wires from that connector to the stock wires my fronts went way down as far as performance.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MF...6884325&sr=8-1
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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Also I am using an re-audio dtx 1500.1 amp and for now a 12" Sony xplod sub. Once I get it working I'm going to start looking for a 10" sub to fit under the rear deck up against the seat because I play golf and my bag needs both side slots to fit into the trunk.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-DTS15001.html
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hamwich
But I would need a high/low converter for that no?
I did not use one and my system sounds perfect.

Originally Posted by m0nkey
i wired both negatives and positive together and just wired them into wires 8 and 9.
Exactly what I ended up doing.

Originally Posted by blazeplacid
I've noticed that the rears seem to have way less outputs than the fronts
Clearly, and I'm sure this is why I couldn't get a usable signal from 23-26 which are for the rear speakers.

Originally Posted by hamwich
as soon as I touched my wires from that connector to the stock wires my fronts went way down as far as performance.
Yet another reason why I believe everyone attempting this should tap 8 & 9 first. It's easier, saves time, and seems more reliable. I've heard widely mixed results from folks using front or rear speaker wires, but everyone that's tapped 8 & 9 gets flawless performance.

The anecdotal evidence is overwhelming.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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See that's the problem with the evidence there are tons of people that use 8 & 9 but also tons of people who are using 23-26 and then some people are using 33-36 like I tried to. I'll give 8 & 9 a try though it can't hurt. But I'm gonna use the converter I have before buying a high low one. Also you say to tap both together onto each wire does that mean at the same spot or tap into the line in 2 different spots?
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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It means cut one end of each RCA cable and separate the pos and neg wires inside of each. Then connect the positive (or negative) wire from both RCA cables to each other and then to #8. Repeat using the opposite polarity from both RCA cables to #9.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 09:48 PM
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So I got it to work but it's acting weird as in won't go down when I turn the volume down every time.. But I used the connector 43 slot 8 & 9 like was mentioned. Now it hits so hard so I gotta get some form of padding for the trunk because it rattles so bad!!!
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