I got a price quote from a local shop for a sub install. I'm providing the sub, passengers side trunk box, amp, RCAs, capacitor. They quoted me $350 saying I needed a Hi/Lo converter, factory connector, etc.

Is this required for the sub install in our cars with the Bose system? How much have you guys paid/what is needed to do an install completely?

Thanks in advance

 

I know it may not be remotely similar to, 1. your location or 2. your complexity but I had the Infinity Basslink installed for about $100. This included some additional wires and the remote installed under the dash.

 

For the Bose SOW car the signals coming from the head unit are just a bit hotter than high output line level. Using a line converter is not entirely necessary as most amps have sufficient gain control and will allow you to run these signals directly into the amp. However you will not have the ability to match the maximum output from the head unit to the maximum input signal to your amp therefore your only safeguard against clipping will be to adjust the amp gain. If you think you may want to expand the system later with more amps and better speakers, investing in a signal processor will reap rewards later on.

The Bose system utilizes Sumitomo connectors and so far I've been unable to locate the raw connectors that would mate with those going into the Bose amps. At least one person on this forum simply gutted the amp and used the connectors to wire the signals into his amp. Most everyone else I've chatted with have simply spliced into the amp wiring harness.

I would absolutely insist that the installer run a dedicated feed from the battery. If you think you will ever add more aplification later on, go with the largest cable you can afford. Im running three RF Power amps and a 360 so I chose single ought.

For the time and work I put into my sub install, I wouldn't do it for less than $500 but then again, Im OCD. The system is clean, overengineered and just about bullitproof. If you remove the two 10" subs from the trunk, the amps, processor, wiring and distribution blocks are completely hidden AND I still have access to my spare tire and jack

 

$350 is a lot, I bought my sub, box, amp, wires from futureshop and they installed it for $75 last year, I have I g37s coupe with Bose system, my buddy bought subs and all the other hardware inline for his civic si and he went to futureshop and they installed it for $85, I live in Canada, pricing for US might be different

 

$350 seems a little high

running the rcas and tapping into the signal is pretty standard for most installs.

what kind of LOC are they using?

 

I just finished puting my sub and amp in yesterday. I tried following to DIYs here on the forum, but they didnt exactly work out. I am running a JL 10W6 powered by a Rockford Fosgate 6001BD.

The first issue I ran into was that the remote power wire going to the Bose amp did not give my amp enough power. It was 12V when it was not connected to the amp, but when it was connected, and the car was on, it was only about 4V (wasnt enough to turn my amp on). I ended up running my remote wire to the fuse box on the drivers side by my feet (just strip the end of the wire, slip it into and open slot so there is contact, and then take one of the spare fuses and put it in). That got my amp to turn on.

The second issue I had was that I DID NEED a Hi/Lo Converter, whereas the DIY on here did not (I believe its because the JL 500/1 already as a Hi/Lo build into it. I got it at Best Buy for like $20.

Other than that, this DIY worked out nicely: https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...stall-diy.html

By the way, I have never wired a system before, and WOW.... There is alot that goes into it finding all the right stuff. i still need to tune it. But it defintely KICKS!

Now, as far as a price... The guy at Best Buy said it would be about $300 if I were to have brought it in (I made sure I asked).

Honestly though... The DIY isnt that bad. Just do a little research to check how you should be wiring the sub (parallel or series), and it feels good to do it yourself too. I shouted many many explatives during the install, but it felt good to be done.

 

I installed the subs myself in my last car but it was much easier because you could just pull the din radio out purchase an aftermarket one with sub RCAs inlet and plug it in directly in and power it directly to the battery. For some reason, I just don't feel like even messing with the factory radio in the car and running wires haha.

I have a Alpine Type R 12in w/ 2000w Nitro Amp (Cheap amp but seriously one of the best amps I've had)
Nitro BMW-486 2000W Max, 2-Channel Amplifier with Bass Remote


I don't plan on upgrading the system further. Just trying to add some additional kick to the Bose system. I may not have them install the hi/lo converter since it doesn't necessarily sound like it is needed.

On the same subject. Can anyone recommend a relatively cheap/good quality wire kit to purchase. The same shop said like 100$ for the wire kit but I feel like I may be able to get it cheaper somewhere.

 

Got my wiring from these guys for the last car.

Amp Installation Kits, HDMI Cables

Decent price and decent product.

2000 watts??? I don't think so. Reading the specs more closely, it's more like 200W @ 4Ω, or 300W @ 2Ω, which is more inline.

Had this amp in the last car. Alpine MRV-F545 (mrvf545) 4-Channel High Power Amplifier Decent all around amp for driving 2 front components and 1 sub (10"). Had another amp for the rear speakers. Ended up selling the car with the speakers (alpina type x components), and sold the amp on ebay. Today's amps are much smaller and more efficient yet can still handle decent power.

 

Its been my experience that the cheapest way to wire a high wattage stereo system is to use welding cable. Depending on the cable size and type, the strand count its similar to the higher end wire minus the fancy jacket and silk screening. The only problem being most amp wire kits have pre-tinned wire which makes attaching connectors easier. Tinning a 0Ga wire can be a pain. The welding cable will also be more difficult to twist and bend around corners as the insulation tends to be more robust.

 

Got everything done a couple weeks ago. I'll post photos of the finished install after this weekend.

 

he welding cable will also be more difficult to twist and bend around corners as the insulation tends to be more robust.

 

i've used welding cable in two installs. Honestly its not that hard to run.

Just leave it in the sun for a day or so. The heat will make the wire a little easier to work with.