best subwoofer?
There is no factory subwoofer, just the woofers in the doors
There really is no best when it comes to car audio. It's all about what you are looking for and what you want to spend.
I have a JL Audio sub and amp that cost about $700 together. Add the enclosure and wires it ran about $1200 total. Excellent system but it depends what you want to spend.
There really is no best when it comes to car audio. It's all about what you are looking for and what you want to spend.
I have a JL Audio sub and amp that cost about $700 together. Add the enclosure and wires it ran about $1200 total. Excellent system but it depends what you want to spend.
The vert has 2 sub woofers in the back seat
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-1 on JL, Kicker, MTX, RF, etc.
Alpine (Type R) is the only one I would get because you can get it pretty cheap at around 100 bucks for a used one. The rest are overpriced, particularly the JL. Sounds good and great sub, but for much less you can get something way better. Kicker is too muddy. RF is not so muddy, but not all that great. MTX, not much to say about it.
Fi was mentioned, great to go with. Hertz has great drivers, I like their Hi-Energy comps. TC Sounds / Audiopulse another good route to go with. ID as mentioned, another great option. Mach 5 Audio makes good drivers at a low cost....there's SO many to list.
Best thing to find out is how much you want to spend and DON'T go with a prefab box, you're just wasting your money spent on the sub and amp. Decide on how much power you'd want to throw at it too. If you don't have the electrical to keep a 1,000w (RMS) amp in the upper 13 to lower 14V range, stick with something else. There's several subs out there that DON'T require much power and can get loud and sound good, for example the old school JL W6's, the ones from 10 yrs back. Efficiency is key IMO and so is the enclosure size. Decide how much room you want it to take up. Decide if you want new or used. That will be a huge factor in cost.
Size of the sub doesn't matter, unless you're comparing the same model. More subs doesn't mean better either. I've easily gotten louder AND cleaner off a single 10" sub vs multiple and subs or larger diameter subs. I've also had a single 12" sub which I wish didn't blow. Off 600w and a small box, that thing got louder than a pair of JL 12w6v2's. Key is box design, efficiency, power, and the sub you use.
Alpine (Type R) is the only one I would get because you can get it pretty cheap at around 100 bucks for a used one. The rest are overpriced, particularly the JL. Sounds good and great sub, but for much less you can get something way better. Kicker is too muddy. RF is not so muddy, but not all that great. MTX, not much to say about it.
Fi was mentioned, great to go with. Hertz has great drivers, I like their Hi-Energy comps. TC Sounds / Audiopulse another good route to go with. ID as mentioned, another great option. Mach 5 Audio makes good drivers at a low cost....there's SO many to list.
Best thing to find out is how much you want to spend and DON'T go with a prefab box, you're just wasting your money spent on the sub and amp. Decide on how much power you'd want to throw at it too. If you don't have the electrical to keep a 1,000w (RMS) amp in the upper 13 to lower 14V range, stick with something else. There's several subs out there that DON'T require much power and can get loud and sound good, for example the old school JL W6's, the ones from 10 yrs back. Efficiency is key IMO and so is the enclosure size. Decide how much room you want it to take up. Decide if you want new or used. That will be a huge factor in cost.
Size of the sub doesn't matter, unless you're comparing the same model. More subs doesn't mean better either. I've easily gotten louder AND cleaner off a single 10" sub vs multiple and subs or larger diameter subs. I've also had a single 12" sub which I wish didn't blow. Off 600w and a small box, that thing got louder than a pair of JL 12w6v2's. Key is box design, efficiency, power, and the sub you use.
That set up must take your breath away. Kicker L7's are no joke.
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