Help Subwoofer vibrates violently after engine shuts off
04-17-2009, 02:23 PM
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Subwoofer vibrates violently after engine shuts off
Hi all. My set up is a JL mono amp 250/1 v2 and 10" JL W6V2D4. The weirdest thing happened to me today - after i shut off the car engine and stepped out, all the sudden the subwoofer vibrates violently that it rumbles the whole car and especially the trunk area. This has never happened before I just don't know whats causing it. But the weird thing is as soon as I poped the trunk, it stops, then i tried to fold down the seat while the trunk is closed, as soon as i do that, it also stops, when i put the seat back, the vibrates again. It's set up to auto sense signal from the rear speakers. Its very baffling does anybody have experience with this problem?
04-17-2009, 02:29 PM
#3
from ironchef on this problem,
Ahhh, the dreaded electrical noise problem!
I start every dilemna like this in the same way. Start by making sure you have a true, good ground. Do this by disconnecting the ground you currently have installed and run jumper cables for the battery negative right to the ground wire going into the amp. Test the door open thing and so on. Next, connect the power in the same manner leaving the ground attached. Test everything again. Next, disconnect the turn on wire and attach it to the power lead from the jumper cable. Test again.
At this point, you've isolated all of the potential ways that noise can enter the amplifier via the power and ground wires. If this didn't resolve the problems, the issue lies in either the amp itself or more likely, the signal connection. What exact amp are you running and what converter?
From what you're saying there are two issues that need to be rectified this weekend when you get a chance. First, change your ground location to a bolt down affair if it's not already and be sure that there is no paint between the contacts. A good ground is absolutely paramount in getting rid of noise and extracting the most power from a 500/1. Second, you absolutely can not use a converter on a 500/1. That amp has extremely advanced technology built into its signal feed area. The 500/1 requires you to splice the rear speaker leads onto an RCA cable and plug it straight into the amp. NO CONVERTER! Then play between the input selector of high/low to find the best balance of clean output with the gain set at a minimal value. After these changes, I bet you'll solve you're issues and drastically improve your bass response.
Ahhh, the dreaded electrical noise problem!
I start every dilemna like this in the same way. Start by making sure you have a true, good ground. Do this by disconnecting the ground you currently have installed and run jumper cables for the battery negative right to the ground wire going into the amp. Test the door open thing and so on. Next, connect the power in the same manner leaving the ground attached. Test everything again. Next, disconnect the turn on wire and attach it to the power lead from the jumper cable. Test again.
At this point, you've isolated all of the potential ways that noise can enter the amplifier via the power and ground wires. If this didn't resolve the problems, the issue lies in either the amp itself or more likely, the signal connection. What exact amp are you running and what converter?
From what you're saying there are two issues that need to be rectified this weekend when you get a chance. First, change your ground location to a bolt down affair if it's not already and be sure that there is no paint between the contacts. A good ground is absolutely paramount in getting rid of noise and extracting the most power from a 500/1. Second, you absolutely can not use a converter on a 500/1. That amp has extremely advanced technology built into its signal feed area. The 500/1 requires you to splice the rear speaker leads onto an RCA cable and plug it straight into the amp. NO CONVERTER! Then play between the input selector of high/low to find the best balance of clean output with the gain set at a minimal value. After these changes, I bet you'll solve you're issues and drastically improve your bass response.
04-17-2009, 02:37 PM
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Thanks Max, my amp is 250/1 v2 does it have the same circuitry as the 500/1 as you are talking about? I currently have the DEI hi/lo converter hooked up from the rear speaker then feed into the amp. So are you saying that I don't even need the hi/lo converter and just run the RCA directly from the speakers into the amp?
but this still doesn't explain why it stops completely when I pop the trunk or fold down the seats.
but this still doesn't explain why it stops completely when I pop the trunk or fold down the seats.
04-17-2009, 03:10 PM
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LMFAO !!! i used to have that ... but when my car would turn on .. or when i would turn off the radio ..
its normal if u have it connected to your stock radio .. its just interferance .. u just gotta live with it =/
its normal if u have it connected to your stock radio .. its just interferance .. u just gotta live with it =/
04-17-2009, 03:18 PM
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How can you let it just vibrates like that? It's really powerful vibration. I tried to wait it out to see if it stops but it seems like it will continue to vibrate until the battery depletes.
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04-17-2009, 03:29 PM
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Splice the remote turn on wire to the same wire that turns on the stock bose amp, and it should turn off when you turn off the car.
I grounded on the backseat railing.. just sand down the area, and bolt it down.
I grounded on the backseat railing.. just sand down the area, and bolt it down.
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