wat can we replace our stock 10" with?
#1
wat can we replace our stock 10" with?
i would like to keep my setup pretty much stock....dont wanna have to add a sub and box...just that the stock sound is kinda weak
so my question is, is there anything that'll fit in place of our stock 10s in the doors? i rather replace those if possible then adding another sub
so my question is, is there anything that'll fit in place of our stock 10s in the doors? i rather replace those if possible then adding another sub
#2
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Maybe these? http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?page_id=245
But I heard other companies have the thin line subs these days also. Ask Lou @ Amplified Motorsport, he's the one who told me about this.
But I heard other companies have the thin line subs these days also. Ask Lou @ Amplified Motorsport, he's the one who told me about this.
#3
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The only thing I would be worried about is if the Bose amps can power these speakers. Bose doesn't like to give out the wattage of their speakers or amps because people tend to put to much emphasis on this. Not sure if anyone knows what type of power the bose amps put out.
#5
Lexus Defector
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Unfortunately with Bose, you can't just swap out speakers. They don't play nice with others. You'd have to swap out the amplifiers too Nam. However, if you want to stay stock, you could swap out the Bose amps in the trunk and replace them with some small ones and then you could swap out the speakers too. Alpine PDX amps will fit nicely in the exact same spot where the Bose amps are currently located.
#7
i'm a fool when it come to audio so please excuse my ignorance...well, its my understanding that in the past bose systems (ie maximas) had an amp built in to each speaker....is this the same case with our G?
anyway, if i replace the 10s and add an amp to power those 10s would that be ok? and basically not use the bose amps
anyway, if i replace the 10s and add an amp to power those 10s would that be ok? and basically not use the bose amps
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#8
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you can use your existing components and just add another amplifier to power a sub. Look into the 4080 box and maybe a monoblock amplifier to power it. That would be the easiest way since you don't have to mess with the rest of the components.
Let me know if you need the wiring diagram or help on wiring your g.
Let me know if you need the wiring diagram or help on wiring your g.
#9
you can use your existing components and just add another amplifier to power a sub. Look into the 4080 box and maybe a monoblock amplifier to power it. That would be the easiest way since you don't have to mess with the rest of the components.
Let me know if you need the wiring diagram or help on wiring your g.
Let me know if you need the wiring diagram or help on wiring your g.
btw, do u have the wiring diagram in like a pdf file? how can i get one?
thanks!
#10
I was never a "Blows" fan when I sold home audio. The old people would come in and have to have the Lifestyle system and thought it was the best thing in the world ‘cause they saw it on TV while watching the 700 club or saw an ad in AARP Monthly or something. That's about as bad as the rednecks thinking they're the hotness on lot C because they just dropped the BIG bucks on the new "Sherwood Home Theatre in a Box" and the biggest Vizio LCD they could find knowing good-n-hell well it'll make their trailer walls bow in and their floors tilt if they hang that thing up. Then the toilet water won't be level 'cause the whole tank and seat are tilted and if they hit that seat on a hot summer day, they'll slide right the F off.
Nonetheless, the system in the G37, I think is pretty decent for stock. It is a little weak all around and the lows don't hit quite as hard (or low) as I'd like. I had the box in the trunk of my Z and it was crammed and a little tacky. It sounded great but got a D- for appearance. This car is much nicer and I don't want to ghetto it up with cut carpet and bulky boxes. I'd rather upgrade the 10s in the doors, but someone mentioned the vibration of them hitting harder and how well the doors will hold up and I didn't think about that. My ideal set-up would be stock HU, low-line filters to aftermarket amps and speakers (since the specs on the stock ones are a Bose secret) and a 10 or 2 neatly tucked in the trunk. I'm might have to do some investigatin'!
Jon
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Nonetheless, the system in the G37, I think is pretty decent for stock. It is a little weak all around and the lows don't hit quite as hard (or low) as I'd like. I had the box in the trunk of my Z and it was crammed and a little tacky. It sounded great but got a D- for appearance. This car is much nicer and I don't want to ghetto it up with cut carpet and bulky boxes. I'd rather upgrade the 10s in the doors, but someone mentioned the vibration of them hitting harder and how well the doors will hold up and I didn't think about that. My ideal set-up would be stock HU, low-line filters to aftermarket amps and speakers (since the specs on the stock ones are a Bose secret) and a 10 or 2 neatly tucked in the trunk. I'm might have to do some investigatin'!
Jon
__________________________________________________ _______________
'08 G37S 6MT Black/Black | Premium | Nav
shirts to bring out the wrong in you
http://www.sheepholetees.com
#11
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Any updates on upgrading the sound system without adding a box in the trunk? I'm thinking about replace the amp and then just replacing the speakers. Where is our sub located? In the doors? For my fx, it was in the trunk.
#12
The G has 3 stock subs. 1 in each of the front doors and 1 on the rear shelf(Sedan). Im not sure about the coupe.
#14
#15
You need to get the signal from the head unit somehow....I thought someone had a wiring diagram of the Bose setup, including what wires bring the signal, and what wire is the remote turn on for the Bose amp(s)
If we know the signal wires, and the remote turn on wire, you can feed the signal and remote turn on to an aftermarket amp and then output from that amp to any speaker(s) you desire.
The big question is if the signal leads from the head unit are high or low.....if they are low they can go into the RCA inputs of any common amp. If they are high you'll need an amp that can take high level inputs, or you need a high to low level converter before going into an amp without high level input capability.
As far as what subs....I have 2 SoundStream SPL10s sitting in my house just itching to be used. They only require .5 cu ft in a sealed enclosure.....that could probably easily hang from the back deck, or at least be tucked away nicely in the trunk somewhere (heck, maybe even a custom spare-tire enclosure). My goal isnt to rattle the car to pieces, I just want a little more low end if possible.
If I ever REALLY get back into car audio like I used to be, well then Id put both SPLs back in, new components in front, etc.
If we know the signal wires, and the remote turn on wire, you can feed the signal and remote turn on to an aftermarket amp and then output from that amp to any speaker(s) you desire.
The big question is if the signal leads from the head unit are high or low.....if they are low they can go into the RCA inputs of any common amp. If they are high you'll need an amp that can take high level inputs, or you need a high to low level converter before going into an amp without high level input capability.
As far as what subs....I have 2 SoundStream SPL10s sitting in my house just itching to be used. They only require .5 cu ft in a sealed enclosure.....that could probably easily hang from the back deck, or at least be tucked away nicely in the trunk somewhere (heck, maybe even a custom spare-tire enclosure). My goal isnt to rattle the car to pieces, I just want a little more low end if possible.
If I ever REALLY get back into car audio like I used to be, well then Id put both SPLs back in, new components in front, etc.