TE37 Tokyo Time Attack (TT)
Great info's fellas, I may need to step it up with meaty tires on my next round of tires well maybe. Do like the fact I don't need to trim the bumper brackets on 255/35; prolly just upgrade the fronts with 245/40 to keep the comfort up front 
IMO my stretched tires function absolutely fine for DD so I do kinda don't see the need for beefy tires right now since I don't plan on autox anytime soon or have the power to break loose the tires FTL hahah that's just me.
If you absolutely want function>form stick with conservative offsets the 10.5 +22 in rear isn't for you JSP872.

IMO my stretched tires function absolutely fine for DD so I do kinda don't see the need for beefy tires right now since I don't plan on autox anytime soon or have the power to break loose the tires FTL hahah that's just me.
If you absolutely want function>form stick with conservative offsets the 10.5 +22 in rear isn't for you JSP872.
Ride height and camber are contributing factors, as well. Lou and I are running the exact same set-up in the rear and I do not rub. Lou's G sits a bit lower than mine, though. I'm not sure what his camber specs are, either.
Thanks, bud...
I think Lou would agree with me that 9.5" (+22) is almost the perfect offset for the front of a G coupe. Again, opinions differ, but it is aggressive, but not too aggressive. I run a 255/40 on my 9.5" (+22) front currently. If I were to do it again, I might go 245/40/19.
I don't know for certain, Aaron, but I would suspect that it would sit rather nicely. Like I said, I think (+22) on a 10.5" wheel in the rear is just a bit too aggressive for a G. Again, my opinion.
Thanks, bud...

I think Lou would agree with me that 9.5" (+22) is almost the perfect offset for the front of a G coupe. Again, opinions differ, but it is aggressive, but not too aggressive. I run a 255/40 on my 9.5" (+22) front currently. If I were to do it again, I might go 245/40/19.
I don't know for certain, Aaron, but I would suspect that it would sit rather nicely. Like I said, I think (+22) on a 10.5" wheel in the rear is just a bit too aggressive for a G. Again, my opinion.

I think you, Lou, and I would agree on the +22 on a 9.5 is dead on perfect for the front on this one...

+32 would sit nicely, just like a +22 sits nicely on the rear with perfect everything... just gotta remember what it is youre going for with your set up and not drift from that...
i think my rear sits dead on perfect with my current TT offset... can barely fit the tip of my pinky in the rears...

you def dont want to go with +22 on a 10.5 though...
Last edited by frty9rsfn; Mar 7, 2012 at 09:32 PM.
however, the design gives them a deep effect on the center and at the end of the spokes... kinda like the center of the SSR TYPE F's... the lower the offset the deeper the center becomes but concavity stays the same... the deeper the center the sharper the wheel...
maybe on a much lower offset would the concavity be there...
Hey Bill... i dont think that the +22 even on the TT would be anywhere near as concave as the SL is for the rear... the +22 is aggressive in the fronts and its nowhere near as concave as the SL's... there is some but the trade of is in the lip sizes for the front and rear.... much bigger lips...
however, the design gives them a deep effect on the center and at the end of the spokes... kinda like the center of the SSR TYPE F's... the lower the offset the deeper the center becomes but concavity stays the same... the deeper the center the sharper the wheel...
maybe on a much lower offset would the concavity be there...
however, the design gives them a deep effect on the center and at the end of the spokes... kinda like the center of the SSR TYPE F's... the lower the offset the deeper the center becomes but concavity stays the same... the deeper the center the sharper the wheel...
maybe on a much lower offset would the concavity be there...
You are correct. The different faces of the TT affect the perceived concavity of the wheel. The 9.5" (+22) TT will not look as concave as the 9.5" (+22) SL, but the lips will be larger. My apologies - I misspoke. You wouldn't happen to have any shots of your front wheels next to Lou's, would you, German? I think then the difference would be evident.
Last edited by frty9rsfn; Mar 7, 2012 at 10:38 PM.
the reason i say that is because there is some room for concavity from spoke to caliper but they didnt add much concave even with some space to spare... would understand if it was due to width and offset but the front isnt conservative by any means... its about the deep center and end of spoke design on this one... notice that on the mazda that there is no deep center (design) at all... how about BBK clearance on the rx-8??? cant notice....
believe me, you would understand what i mean about the deep design i keep mentioning if u see it in person... really makes the wheel pop out...
Last edited by frty9rsfn; Mar 7, 2012 at 10:48 PM.
yup... thats why i didnt pull the trigger with the SSR's... didnt want to play with having to figure what height, camber, tires sizes, and amount of bracket to shave (if not all)...
I think you, Lou, and I would agree on the +22 on a 9.5 is dead on perfect for the front on this one...
+32 would sit nicely, just like a +22 sits nicely on the rear with perfect everything... just gotta remember what it is youre going for with your set up and not drift from that...
i think my rear sits dead on perfect with my current TT offset... can barely fit the tip of my pinky in the rears...

you def dont want to go with +22 on a 10.5 though...
I think you, Lou, and I would agree on the +22 on a 9.5 is dead on perfect for the front on this one...

+32 would sit nicely, just like a +22 sits nicely on the rear with perfect everything... just gotta remember what it is youre going for with your set up and not drift from that...
i think my rear sits dead on perfect with my current TT offset... can barely fit the tip of my pinky in the rears...

you def dont want to go with +22 on a 10.5 though...
German, I actually think that the front is just perfect for what "we" both like. However you keep mentioning that the back might be too much if you go +30 instead of your current setup which I understand. What if maybe raise the rear just a bit and run 275/35 with +30?
From the picture, it looks like the back can go out just a tad bit more? I'm going around circles.. LOL
whenever you get a chance, can you try take a pic from an angle like this? Really appreciate your time sharing all the info here and constant update/feedback from your set up.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikolitz/6278970468/http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikolitz/6278970468/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/mikolitz/, on Flickr
let me see if i can help
If you guys want more function than form:
19x10 +35 is the only way to go. 19x10 +30 is another option but the LIP is bigger on the +35, plus your limited to 275 on the +30
Im running 275/35/19's on my TE37 SL (FATTY CONTINENTALS) and with my bumper trimmed, rear bumper bolt moved another half inch back, I still rub with negative 2.9 deg camber. I don't rub under normal driving but every bad bump, or going up driveways, i do rub.
As for the questions on the face design, the SL's and the TE37 TT were designed completely different. Here are the TE37 TT specs:
RAYS WHEELS
FACE 1 means least amount of concave, FACE 3 has the most concave
Under RIM column : S = small LIP, L = MEDIUM LIP, SL = SUPER LIP.
INSET is actually OFFSET to us.
Hope that helps
If you guys want more function than form:
19x10 +35 is the only way to go. 19x10 +30 is another option but the LIP is bigger on the +35, plus your limited to 275 on the +30
Im running 275/35/19's on my TE37 SL (FATTY CONTINENTALS) and with my bumper trimmed, rear bumper bolt moved another half inch back, I still rub with negative 2.9 deg camber. I don't rub under normal driving but every bad bump, or going up driveways, i do rub.
As for the questions on the face design, the SL's and the TE37 TT were designed completely different. Here are the TE37 TT specs:
RAYS WHEELS
FACE 1 means least amount of concave, FACE 3 has the most concave
Under RIM column : S = small LIP, L = MEDIUM LIP, SL = SUPER LIP.
INSET is actually OFFSET to us.
Hope that helps
lots of info here that really helps me with my dream set up in the future.
German, I actually think that the front is just perfect for what "we" both like. However you keep mentioning that the back might be too much if you go +30 instead of your current setup which I understand. What if maybe raise the rear just a bit and run 275/35 with +30?
From the picture, it looks like the back can go out just a tad bit more? I'm going around circles.. LOL
whenever you get a chance, can you try take a pic from an angle like this? Really appreciate your time sharing all the info here and constant update/feedback from your set up.

Bear Creek-166 by mikolitz, on Flickr
German, I actually think that the front is just perfect for what "we" both like. However you keep mentioning that the back might be too much if you go +30 instead of your current setup which I understand. What if maybe raise the rear just a bit and run 275/35 with +30?
From the picture, it looks like the back can go out just a tad bit more? I'm going around circles.. LOL
whenever you get a chance, can you try take a pic from an angle like this? Really appreciate your time sharing all the info here and constant update/feedback from your set up.

Bear Creek-166 by mikolitz, on Flickr
keep this in mind this... we both have +22 up front... we however have a completely different set up going... he is slammed... im low but not as slammed...
looking at my set up... i can go maybe a 1/4 of an inch high on the rear and it would look really even from front to rear... if i raise it, the rear would come out a tad too... would be more flush, closer to how the front sits... how much??? not sure... enough to be as flush?? would try but im corner balanced and i would undo the work put into it...
keep in mind that i am at 285/35 and at + 35 on a 10 inch wheel... and still within camber specs, - 1.5 (for performance and still minimal tire ware)... i also have the ability to add a 5 mm spacer if i wanted to to get as flush as the front... with a 285, i had to trim the rear bumper bracket as well... a 5 mm would be perfect i think as the front but, i would then have to add negative camber too and completely shave the bumper bracket...
im thinking youre considering a 275 on a 10.5 wheel and +30... a 275, would be slightly streched... exactly as pulled as my front wheel... with this set up you would be extending 11mm in the rear which is exactly slightly less than half and inch... (0.433 inches)... can work but then u would have to run more negative camber, shave entire bracket, and be higher than me or more of the slammed look... you are then playing with trying to be more on the functional side... believe, you dont want to be rubbing and to be within camber specs... remember, tires are more expensive when going with 19's and more negative camber means more tire wear...
but its a trade off.... wont forget the pic...
let me see if i can help
If you guys want more function than form:
19x10 +35 is the only way to go. 19x10 +30 is another option but the LIP is bigger on the +35, plus your limited to 275 on the +30
Im running 275/35/19's on my TE37 SL (FATTY CONTINENTALS) and with my bumper trimmed, rear bumper bolt moved another half inch back, I still rub with negative 2.9 deg camber. I don't rub under normal driving but every bad bump, or going up driveways, i do rub.
As for the questions on the face design, the SL's and the TE37 TT were designed completely different. Here are the TE37 TT specs:
RAYS WHEELS
FACE 1 means least amount of concave, FACE 3 has the most concave
Under RIM column : S = small LIP, L = MEDIUM LIP, SL = SUPER LIP.
INSET is actually OFFSET to us.
Hope that helps

If you guys want more function than form:
19x10 +35 is the only way to go. 19x10 +30 is another option but the LIP is bigger on the +35, plus your limited to 275 on the +30
Im running 275/35/19's on my TE37 SL (FATTY CONTINENTALS) and with my bumper trimmed, rear bumper bolt moved another half inch back, I still rub with negative 2.9 deg camber. I don't rub under normal driving but every bad bump, or going up driveways, i do rub.
As for the questions on the face design, the SL's and the TE37 TT were designed completely different. Here are the TE37 TT specs:
RAYS WHEELS
FACE 1 means least amount of concave, FACE 3 has the most concave
Under RIM column : S = small LIP, L = MEDIUM LIP, SL = SUPER LIP.
INSET is actually OFFSET to us.
Hope that helps


Hope Lou doesnt mind that im posting this, but he shaved the s*** out of the bumper bracket... is also higher than i am in the rear by 1/3, maybe 1/2 of an inch and he still rubs btw... i hated that at every little bump i was rubbing was driving bout 30 mph once i noticed and waited to get it trimmed... as i turned left or right, even at slow speeds, i was rubbing... going up a driveway or reversing from a driveway, it rubbed really really bad... doing this a few times even trimmed the sides off a quarter of one of my tires from the side... it sliced off a small portion, no biggie at all but hated just knowing and then seeing this...
Last edited by frty9rsfn; Mar 8, 2012 at 04:01 AM.
Damn that's a sweet shot wonder who that is
but yes I'm dumpted couldn't be happier with the stance for ride quality it can be better. +1 on tires they do get expensive for us 19's people so best bet get it in spec
but yes I'm dumpted couldn't be happier with the stance for ride quality it can be better. +1 on tires they do get expensive for us 19's people so best bet get it in spec
hmmm... since i have the X Coupe, I guess i wouldn't look too bad if I'm running 19 X 9.5 +22 all around on the SL
as far as stance goes, wouldn't 9.5 +22 on the rear, be similar to German's 10 +35?
the 9.5 +22 would actually be .3mm more outward
i dont know.... maybe it would look bad....
can't decide... lol
also, I dont know if you guys noticed, some of the pictures of the TT, the spokes look more like a satin finish instead of the gloss
which doesn't look too bad actually... lol
as far as stance goes, wouldn't 9.5 +22 on the rear, be similar to German's 10 +35?
the 9.5 +22 would actually be .3mm more outward
i dont know.... maybe it would look bad....
can't decide... lol
also, I dont know if you guys noticed, some of the pictures of the TT, the spokes look more like a satin finish instead of the gloss
which doesn't look too bad actually... lol
hmmm... since i have the X Coupe, I guess i wouldn't look too bad if I'm running 19 X 9.5 +22 all around on the SL
as far as stance goes, wouldn't 9.5 +22 on the rear, be similar to German's 10 +35?
the 9.5 +22 would actually be .3mm more outward
i dont know.... maybe it would look bad....
can't decide... lol
also, I dont know if you guys noticed, some of the pictures of the TT, the spokes look more like a satin finish instead of the gloss
which doesn't look too bad actually... lol
as far as stance goes, wouldn't 9.5 +22 on the rear, be similar to German's 10 +35?
the 9.5 +22 would actually be .3mm more outward
i dont know.... maybe it would look bad....
can't decide... lol
also, I dont know if you guys noticed, some of the pictures of the TT, the spokes look more like a satin finish instead of the gloss
which doesn't look too bad actually... lol
would be ok i think, only draw back might be that u wont have any lip for the rears...
we best get in spec!!! hah




