ITB13-005 covered my clutch fluid to be replaced with GTR R35 Special brake fluid due to the standard fluid causing clutch pedal not returning from floor.

This TSB was posted March 21st.

Had lots of problems with this, also got a new master cylinder as well. This fluid isnt cheap!

Hope this helps someone.

 

I just got this performed on my 2012 Sedan 6MT.

Clutch was not returning back properly.

It took 9,000 miles to manifest itself. Bought it as a brand new car.

 

Is there a pdf/link to this bulletin?

Chilibowl, do you drive aggressively, lots of stop/go traffic? Seems like 9K mile is rather low to wear out the clutch fluid.

 

Sup Jsolo, I have yet to throw in your clutch spring . I just got my car back Saturday with this issue and have no idea how/where to find the PDF but I just wanted to quickly throw this up because it caused a lot of headache for me and the dealer kept telling me they can't reproduce it but that's because the tards barely drive it around the block like a grandma despite telling them it happens to me when I rarely launch the car or go through the canyons once or twice every month or two. Normal driving it is fine and always has been. I have yet to test it again since I have been working a lot.

 

Kevin, wow. I think you got yours last fall.

From reading your OP, it's hard to say though if it was the fluid or the MC, especially since they also replaced it (the MC). I suppose if you participate in HPDE type events, sure the fluid would break down, but otherwise, it's hard to accept - unless nissan uses really cheap fluids. It does make one wonder why they issued the TSB. Perhaps the majority of MT cars coming in with this issue have deteriorate fluid. This way, the fluid should last the 3 or 4 years of the basic warranty. If you recall, the CSC is not covered under powertrain, not sure about the MC.

Comparing apples/oranges here, but my old camaro NEVER had it's clutch fluid changed, no issues in 15 years/85K miles. Bleeding it was a strange procedure, requiring fluid to be pumped from the slave back to the MC.

 

Hey homie...I drive I would say 65/35 ....with 65 being aggressive.

Lemme just put it out there...that I am an absolutely excellent manual driver...and if you were to blindfold yourself in my car and I closed my windows, you would think you were riding in an automatic.

Car drove absolutely great.....until a cold front hit Florida. I get into my car one cold morning....and the clutch engagement point was half way lower.

Within 5 minutes of me cruising in 6th gear.....I would go to push the clutch and it would almost be at the floor. I would have to pick it back up with my foot, and put the gearbox in neutral, and pump the clutch a few times to get normal operation back.

Finally, after 3 days, I got fed up and brought her in.

Since the dealer visit, the car is back to driving great with zero issues.

I think there is more to it than a clutch fluid change...maybe there was air in the line...who knows...

All i know is...it definitely happened to me and it was fixed in zero time.

 

^^I think air in the line is more plausible. Glad you got yours fixed.

Some years back, i had a kawasaki concours 1400. Now mind you, I rode ALOT. By the 2nd year of ownership, somewhere around 20K miles, I started noticing weird clutch behavior (hydraulic clutch, similar master/slave set up as on a car). Sometimes it would grab far from the bar, other times almost immediately. At first it seemed like it was temperature related (engine), then this starting happening regardless if the engine was hot or cold. I bled it, which seemed to help for a short bit, but then it returned.

Eventually, by the time the bike had 35K+, I had traded it in on something more sporty. By now, the number of forum posts related to this issue were increasing. Those that had it repaired reported replacement of the slave fixed the problem. Turns out the slave had some sort of internal leak which would vary the engagement point. There was no fluid loss nor did the level change. Mine started to fail early on likely because of all the miles. I didn't ride it like I stole, but I did wind it out often (150hp/100ft lb at the wheel, on 2 wheels is too much fun not to play with).

 

I had the same issue with my 6MT altima!

The clutch pedal sinking only happen when I was in FL for a summer internship (I'm form the NE), and it happened in situations where I was shifting a lot (traffic).

The dealer replaced the slave & master cylinders, and used DOT4 fluid instead of the standard DOT3, which seemed to solve the problem, but I suspect the real solution was leaving the tropical climate (but maybe they did something to make up better seals)

I'm not knowledgeable on the subject, so this is mainly regurgitation, but the theory was that the hydraulic system was not properly sealed and allowed the intro of moisture, which caused the loss of pressure

Maybe this will help and I hope I don't run into this issue n my new car