well, im not sure prob the same.

 

Hey guys what's up? My name is Rafa I will be moving to MD next month and wanted to introduce myself to this thread. I currently live in VA but thought it be good to start posting here and getting to know some of the MD folks.

 

welcome. These MD guys are a good group!

 

That sucks Christian, but it's still funny haha

 

Thanks look forward to meet some of you guys once I move...

 

Guys just wondering what insurance company you guys have and what is a decent price to pay for a G coupe in MD I got Nationwide currently and pay 500 every 6 months.. zero accidents and no traffic violations knock on wood... what should I expect to pay in this area? I know this could vary a lot but just wanted to get a feel of what Im getting into... Thanks for the input.

 

@ Christian. That is pure grad A bull**** I'd expect from an MD statetrooper. There was really no point in that at all. Did he give you a repair order ?

Any one know of a good place to buy aftermarket rotors in MD

 

I have GEICO full coverage no accidents no points and i pay 330 every six months 08 G Coupe..

Any cruises coming up soon?

 

Just curious what you are referring to?

 

I took my G to the dealer last week because my transmission was grinding whenever I tried to engage 3rd gear. I got a call back this morning saying they'll have to order me a new transmission under warranty. Fine by me.
But my service contact also tells me because my clutch and flywheel are so worn out I should replace them while they have the transmission off of the car.

He quoted me the prices for the parts:
Flywheel Assembly: 12310-EY00A = $1100
Pressure Plate: 30205-JK40C = $1000
Clutch Release Bearing: 306A1-JK40D = $130
Total = $2230

After a bit of research, the quoted price seemed quite high especially considering the fact that they are parts only without labor charges. So I told the dealership to just do the warranty fix.

My car only has 23,000 miles. I take my car up to speed on the highway from time but I never dumped the clutch. And before I took my car in for service I never noticed any clutch slipping.

So my question is this...Did I make a mistake by holding off on clutch/flywheel replacement? Or was the dealership trying to scare me into spending $2000+ for no reason?

 

Without seeing the clutch, it's really hard to say. I CAN'T IMAGINE that with only 23k miles on your car, the flywheel would warp as easily being its a dual-mass 32lb pig. I replaced my clutch and flywheel with the JWT when I had about 28k miles on my car. It didn't need it, but I knew I was going to eventually autocross and go forced induction. I beat the chit out of my stock clutch and when we pulled it, it still had 75% life left with minor heat-spots on the pressure plate, so if you know how to properly drive a manual, then you shouldn't need a clutch replacement yet.



That photo shows a bad pressure plate on the right, you can see hot-spots ALL over. It's normal to have a few spots on a healthy clutch assembly with 20k+ miles, but not like that.

The clutch would go out WAY before a flywheel would prematurely. I really think they're trying to get one over on you, but I would suggest you have them let you look at the clutch and flywheel and also have them explain to you why you need to have it replaced.

If you'd like I can snap some pics of my stock clutch and pressure plate to give you a good idea of what 28k miles on a healthy stocker looks like.

Which dealership was this by the way?

- Steve

 

Thanks Steve.

Yeah I can't really fathom why my clutch would go out this early especially when I don't even have any mods.
It's troublesome for me because I'm always traveling for work and can't go in to the dealership to look at it myself. I'll have to ask my friend to go and take a few photos for me before I make my decision.

If they won't charge me labor fee since the transmission is already out, I might just go ahead and replace the parts with Exedy Stage 1.

Any recommendations for the replacement parts? How does the JWT drive?

Dealer was JBA Infiniti in Ellicott city.

 

I have never personally dealt with JBA, but I have heard some horror stories similar to this.

I like Nationwide in Timonium a lot. I've dealt with the service manager for a while and he's an all around stand-up guy who will tell you what you need and what you don't (for future reference).

The JWT drives like stock because it uses organic materials just like the stock clutch does, it can just hold A LOT more power. The downside is that it has a massive clamping load on the stock hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and some have failed because of it.

If you decide to go this route, it's best to get the zSpeedPerformance aftermarket slave cylinder. it's made of all metal with no plastic parts like the stock slave cylinder.

The other option is to go with the Exedy stage 1 if you plan on staying N/A. It doesn't have nearly as much clamping force and the stock slave cylinder should hold up fine for many miles.

I really can't believe in the least that the flywheel needs to be replaced. There's no way it could warp in 23k miles.

 

That's a great deal I may need to go shopping for different companies... I called my company and they want freaking 800 a month for the location I will be moving in MD....... Sucks big time...

 

I got a ClutchMasters Stage II clutch/flywheel combo for about 1300 shipped from corsport.com, plus 800 for labor at JBA... I like it so far although it still chatters occasionally even after 1000 miles. But it's not terribly annoying... and it's Stage II so maybe it's normal, idk.