2010 G37S Convertible.
My A/C system was fantastic, one of the coldest cars I've ever driven. Now it's dead; compressor, radiator/condenser, and associated parts. I've been quoted around $1700 just for those two parts, around $800 for the compressor itself. (Plus another $1000 for labor.) But I also see a lot of new non-OEM compressors online for around $250. That's a huge difference. Is there a reason to spend over $550 more just to get OEM?

I haven't even gotten to pricing a "generic" radiator/condenser combo...but if I ever meet the guy who thought it was a good idea to combine the two...

Anyone else had to make this choice? Did you go with non-OEM?

Thanks

P.S. Does the convertible have a different compressor than the other trim lines? Some part stores suggest that.

 

just recently diagnosed a failed AC Compressor clutch so I bit the bullet and had the entire compressor assy replaced. The dealership was going to replace the condenser, compressor and a few other bits to the tune of $2,600. I took it to "Made in the USA/Made in Japan" and they did just the AC Compressor, replaced a ballast on the headlights and changed the oil for $1,700 and change. Summers in the central sections of CA are typically hot (high 90's to 100+ temps) from mid June till late September so I didn't want to cheap out on what might have been an unreliable AC system so I opted for the OEM parts

 

I'm in AZ so the heat is certainly a factor. (Having a convertible here is almost stupid, there's only a few months I can use it.)

My full quote was the same as yours, $2600 + tax. I believe in OEM parts, for sure. I always tell people that my AC is so cold, the only button on my dash that is worn off is the "fan down" button. But damn, that's a lot of cash right now. So, I'm at least willing to listen to other points of view.

I'm curious how you got by with just the compressor; I've gotten a couple quotes and they all want to include the radiator/condenser. I guess it's a matter of how bad the compressor is any whether it may have spit chunks of debris into the lines.

Thanks!

 

Looks like you need to find yourself a better mechanic and not one that will go off based on what a person drives.
AC systems are composed of multiple things, usually when they stop working is due to a freon leak. If you fix this leak then you'll be fine.
The biggest problem is that most mechanics usually dont want to waste their time diagnosing a stupid leak since even with a brand new hose the fix will be a small one.
It's easier and more profitable for the mechanic to replace the entire thing this way they can provide "warranty" and squeeze a bit more out of the quote, by replacing almost everything is almost a guarantee that you wont even get to use this warranty either.

My suggestion is to determine how bad you want your AC vs how big do you want the hole in your pocket to be.
If you cant wait then go for it.
If you can, contact some local people maybe friend of friends.

The main thing is to find why did it stop working.
Leak? Perform a vacuum test then recharge with dye and look for the leak
Leak found? Fix the leak then vacuum and recharge.
Take a look at the pressures
Do the pressures look good? Yes
Return the car and inform the customer you fixed the problem however you did not replace major components so it is a possibility wear and tear might require replacing in the future.

 

Find another mechanic who is knowledgeable in AC systems and get a proper diagnosis from them.

As "complex" as the AC system appears, it really is a super simple principle and relatively easy to diagnose and repair. Unless the condenser has a hole in it, it is unlikely it needs to be replaced. Same for the evaporator. Compressors can fail, but they are rare these days. My bet would be a refrigerant leak...

To Bull's point, was a leak test performed? What are the manifold gauges reading/ how are they acting? These cars come from the factory with a UV dye already injected into the system to make finding leaks easier.

Things you can do at home:
A) If you have a "blacklight" look for traces of this dye along all of the refrigerant lines and connections.
B) perform the IPDM/er self test. (see here). Do both fans turn on? Does the compressor clutch "click" on/off?
C) is the condenser/ radiator clean? Free from dirt/ debris/ other obstruction?

Again, I would get a second opinion and not throw good money at replacing parts needlessly.

Just my 10¢

 

In my own diagnosis of the problem, I did steps A-C in ILM-NC G37S's post above. No leaks were found, no electro-mechanical issues were discovered aside from a failed compressor clutch. Since my system did not fail due to a leak or break in the system, there were no contaminants in the system so I saw no need to replace a part that in my mind was not an issue. This was about two months ago and so far, no issues

 

I've replaced compressor clutches in the past, mostly with used units since finding a new one is about the same price.
But you have to love having A/C again with just the change of a small removable part.

 

I seriously contemplated that option. Im sure it would have saved me about a grand in unnecessary parts and labor but in the end, I was impatient and didn't want to devote the time that it would have taken me (I don't work as fast as I used to)