McBoing

Hi all, as the title suggests, I just purchased a 2011 base model x sedan. Man, what a treat, the only issue being it has 109k miles on it. Bought the vehicle at carmax along with a 36 MO warranty on it. The car is solid, I have read the stickies and plan on changing the differential fluid and transmission fluid, I'm expecting around $500 for the service, don't feel like doing the trans service on my own. The timing issue seems to have been corrected in this car, but I could be wrong. I have a warranty good for 150k/3yrs so if it goes out, hopefully it's sooner than later.

I seem to see a division on oil recommendations, and I need to be able to use an approved oil to maintain warranty status. What are your thoughts on this? I was planning to use redline 5w-30 but lacking any cert may be an issue. I need to keep logs incase of warranted repairs. What about m1 5w-30 or 0-40, I was concerned with a possible VVEL ticking that has been mentioned and would like to avoid that, but I feel like trial and error may be the best bet here.

If I do go about changing the diff fluids myself, what is the recommended fluid for this? It seems to be that these differentials aren't too picky but a geberal point of direction for a tried and true type would be helpful.

Are there any other major concerns about this VQ37HR ENGINE other than what I listed and seemingly hard on oil?

I see people mentioning to use dealer plugs, but I love cross-referencing for cheaper. Seems like they are NGK's and probably can grab them on rockauto or something for cheaper than at the dealer.

Basically, just want to get some input as if this was your vehicle and would love to be pointed in the right direction as to how to keep this car alive well into the 200k mile range as some users have done. My driving style could be considered easy going, I tend to not let my tach pass 3500 on street driving, but sometimes I will push it up to 6k+ if I am in need of the gas chugging acceleration (freeway on ramps come to mind here) or if i just want to let it loose on the highway.

Oh also, I noticed a noise at idle coming from what seems like the passenger side. It almost sounds like something may be loose, but when I let off the brake it goes away completely. Perhaps the brake fluid needs to be changed or maybe there is another culprit here.

Thank you!
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azideam

Factory plugs are Denso, not NGK.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

McBoing

Ah, found them! Thanks!


​​​​​​​What is considered a good oil to use? I'm under the impression that it needs to be Ester based, from what I have been reading, the Nissan formula only uses additives which allow it to carry this cert but is not a true one. Any recommendations? I don't mind running royal purple, motul, redline, whichever can keep the warranty in place and produce good results. Genuine Nissan oil is a possibility, but looks like it isn't the best option.

McBoing

Bumping on this. Did more research. Seems like redline might be good but overkill and hard on the cat, might run penzoil ultra in it and send it in for an oil analysis after 4k miles. It's not Ester based as far as I know which is my only concern. I ordered some densos, and I called infiniti and they informed me the differential fluid was recommended to be changed at 60k but the owners declined it. So I'm looking at doing that as soon as possible. Any recommendations for that?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Welcome to the site!
Have had years of good results running Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 w/ changes every 5 to 6k and the larger Nissan V8 oil filters.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

I run Pennzoil platinum @ 5w30 all year round. Temps in my State range from -10 to high 90s. I recommend using a K&N oil filter due to the angle of the oil filter on the X model. The nut on the K&N makes install and removal easy. The front sway bar is in the way so getting grip is a bit tricky on other filters. I change my oil every 5-6k miles and it comes out pretty clean and still has the golden hue to it; so I can say with confidence that it holds up very well under hard/aggressive driving.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...il-thread.html

McBoing

This is an odd reply, mainly because first you describe the Mobil 1 as not being the best oil (which I know is not the best but would likely be adequate) , then providing a link to a poll in which the far majority of individuals fill with Mobil 1. Though the most common is not necessarily the best, sending mixed messages here.

As far as the penzoil, I noticed it was smoother but it seems to be running louder at idle. I also replaced the plugs and cleaned the TB this past weekend so perhaps there is more combustion going on(albeit likely a marginally larger or even negligible amount). If I were to try to best explain with my limited knowledge on the car, I feel like the valves or lifters are getting more oil now quieting much of the ticking, however there is now a louder overall sound to the engine when inside the cabin, including a louder idle. To me and my possibly horrible explanation, it seems as if the oil is now getting to the top half of the engine in a far superior fashion, however the lubrication isn't as good as the previous oil. (I don't have any idea what was in there, possibly standard Dino or the Ester oil from Nissan)

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

McBoing

This is a very good point. I suppose everyone starts with a few options as a baseline and then ventures into what they prefer for their particular vehicle. Oil analysis doesn't lie but there are so many factors to consider. Even if money was no object, there would be pros and cons to every oil listed, with the motul v300 seeming like the most expensive and least debated (but still has its quirks) everything else is more subjective to brand preference, availability, and word of mouth. If you change the oil every 3700 miles, what differences will you really get from the vast majority in engine protection? Probably not much.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Pennzoil used to run $10 rebates on their 5 qt jugs, that made the decision easy for me as I'd stock up on 5 or 6 at a time for all our vehicles. They seem to be tighter on the rebates right now, so Valvoline Full Synthetic is what I'll be running in our new Jeep (at least for the upcoming year), lol.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Advance auto always has stellar deals in my experience. I can get 6 qts., a 5 qt and one single, with a K&N or Purolator Boss filter for <$40.00. Throw in the rewards points and I'll get another $5.00 here and there.

McBoing

Just an update. Carmax failed to diagnose a noise issue three times from the driver side wheel area. I was even given a loaner vehicle and was told to return it as nothing was deemed wrong. Took it to an independent shop and they ended up replacing my wheel hub, along with a leaking front strut, valve cover casket, plenum gasket and heater hose + connector. I would have done the hub myself but was worried of possible cv ae joint damage (new axles are not cheap) My extended warranty was contacted and they sent out an inspector to verify and all things were fixed. No more sounds while I drive. The heater hose wasn't covered by my extended warranty but I reached out to carmax corporate and they took care of it and decided to cover it.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Nice that was taken care of, sounds like you needed to stay on them, but that's often the case.
Now go enjoy that G!