That's what my research was showing me. What about a simple sea foam treatment? I'd even say, see if you could drop the pan and pull the Intake mani and see what you're dealing with.

Where about in Jersey are you located? South (Williamstown/Voorhees/Vineland area)by chance?

 

RMB5190 - Yeah theres a ton of additives out there that I could try. Also never heard of the transmission oil trick.
The dealership opened up the valve covers and it was all sludged over. Going to check out a couple more shops to see if they have ASE certified folks to to do the work. I would think theres something they could do to get it back on the road instead of just telling me I need to change the engine. He told me that the automatic timing has gone so far in one direction that it cant safely adjust it anymore and thats why the it wouldnt let the car start. Has anyone changed out their VVT solenoids ?? Ive read (www.yourmechanic.com) that the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoids are responsible for changing the position of the camshafts in the engine. working on oil pressure it can either advance or retard cam position to provide the right performance from the engine. Each camshaft is equipped with a VVT solenoid which is capable of altering the supply of oil pressure depending up on the load. They also go on to say that the only time it is inspected is if you are experiencing problems with the VVT system or the check engine light illuminates and the computer provides a camshaft position or VVT system related code.
Wondering if the screens in one of the VVT solenoids is filled with sludge and wont let it adjust - even though i didnt get a VVT DTC code (just got the CPS p0340 one) ???

 

This is what I was thinking:



If it's something you mechanically believe you can do yourself I'd go this route. Or, I'd get a quote to see what the potential damage is to have it done.

If you're able, I'd get the car to Hill's garage in MD. Guys know this platform inside and out. Great reputation.

 

Hey sorry forgot to mention in previous reply - the car was leased in NJ and lived there till about 40k miles with one recorded oil change. It was then sent to an auto auction where a dealer ship in Athens, AL bought it. Then we bought it used from a dealership they sold it to. We live in North Alabama. Wife is checking out shops in NJ to see if they have any records of an oil change for this car. But I doubt there are any since the engine condition is pretty poor.

 

Cool video of the engine sludge cleaning. Yeah - I feel confident I can do that job - but would get sidetracked with another project half way through and never get it done timely. Or get it taken apart and put it back together improperly. Pulling the motor looks like its not an easy chore either:

https://youtu.be/KR6u3BNMF0E

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KR6u3BNMF0E" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

No lift to hoist car - but have an awesome hydraulic motorcycle lift table I build last summer that measures 24" x 96". Probably kill myself setting the car up on blocks and drop the engine and subframe onto my table. Yes I've thought about it.

 

What did you end up doing with your vehicle based off the code it gave?

 

I pulled the Nissan Service manual online and ordered parts from RockAuto to replace the timing chain, tensioners and both cam phasers along with new gaskets and solenoids off ebay.
Took about $600 in parts and almost 2-3 days of actual work to remove and replace the front timing cover, clean, install new parts, adjust, and final closeout. Throughout the process I found out that one reason this may have all started was that there was a valve seal on the #1 cylinder that allowed oil into the combustion chamber thereby fouling up the spark plug causing a shudder and occasional misfire. There was also a noticeable puff of smoke coming out of the exhaust when the car was started. Had someone change all the plugs 6 months after I bought the g37(used with 30k miles). All this oil getting burned off in the chamber brought the oil level down and must have got to the point where the cam phasers werent getting the required oil volume for lubrication. The G37 doesnt have a low oil sensor - only a low oil pressure switch. Running the car with low oil level caused it to break down the oil and cause all the sludge and kill the phasers (or stretch the chain) give the pOwhatever codes. Replacing the parts made the car run great again with no codes -but the oil leak past the valve seal was still present. My recommendation - check the plugs regularly --- And ALWAYS, ALWAYS check the oil when you open the hood on your G37 or whatever Infiniti you have. Sorry about your luck. Hope you find a way to fix your ride.