My brake pads will be in today .I plan on putting them on .Who here has changed their pads themselves.From the diy pics i see you don't have to remove the caliper.It this true? My old probe gt i had to remove one bolt and just lift the caliper up .Insert the pads and was done.The diy looks like they just slip in.Let me know peace.

 

Correct, take wheel off, use needle-nose pliers to take those 2 pins out, then take out the lil aluminum holder piece. Then pull pad out. Then you will need a c-clamp(or a really big plier) to push the piston back all the way in order to fit the new pads. Remember to put anti squeal stuff on. I think the HPS doesn't come with shim since it's intergrated, not 100% sure. put pads in, then bed them, and call it a day.

~Khoa

 

make sure you bed them in properly or they will squeal there buts off.and yes brembos are easy to replace.

 

so who's volunteering to change mine

 

after i do mine there will only be a small fee. HEHEHEHEHEHEH

 

I think the keyword here is "BREMBO" are easy ..ahaha, but yea, if you get some brembo's i'll help ya


~Khoa

 

I just installed some Project Mu on my car this past weekend. I had no idea that I could leave the calipers on b/c there was just not enough room so I took them off. Took me 3 hours to change both the fronts and rears. Of course I found out afterwards that the pads could've slipped right out with the calipers on.

 

sometimes they still squeel if you dont put enough of that nonsqueel grease on... i bedded mine and rebedded them and they still squeel..then the dealer put more grease on it and it was fine...

 

Are you supposed to bed them? I didn't and no squealing at all.

 

put plenty of disc brake quiet on the back of the pads and make sure to be patient and let it dry/cure. When it dries, it's almost like latex or rubber. Also would help to get the brake parts lubricant, it comes in small individual packets and it's a green gel. Works well on all the sliding parts like the pins etc... bed them properly as stated above, and you'll be fine. Lots of brake pad threads lately???

 

The full safe method:

1. Use brake cleaner and clean the rotors, new pads, and around calipers to remove as much oil/brake dust and debris as possible.

2. Use anti squeak on the pads and the metal shim that fit over the pads.

3. Ideally, the rotors should be inspected to see if they need to be turned or replaced.

4. Careful not to introduce air bubbles into the brake lines. You may need to bleed the lines and perhaps add more fluid?

5. If you ever get new rotors, they are usually covered in somekind of protective oil. You need to use brake cleaner to remove all of the oil. A friend of mine did not do this properly and he was never able to bed the brakes fully due to the oil contamination into his pads. Needless to say, he had to purchase new pads.

 

When my Project Mus came in, the rears did not come with the metal shims. Am I supposed to use the current ones that are on the old pads? I wasn't sure so I left them off.

 

It took me about 2.5 hours .Only because i had to take all the wheels of and put them back on.Yes the brembos were easy.The first was the hardest.The fronts were tight like khoa said.If i had a grinder i would have shaved a little off .I had to tap them down with a mallet.Rears dropped in 20min each.Put on anti squeel CRC red.It does get thick after about 10 min.I bedded .On a scale of 1-10 this was about a 4 .Lots of work taking wheels and brakes off then putting them back on.Thanks Pratik also for giving me the shop to buy from .Big props to www.raceshopper.com they were the cheapest of the 5 places i checked.I had 45000 miles my fronts where about 50 % rear insides were gone.I started not to change them until i saw the one inner pad.

 

Oh while i was cleaning my wheels when i took them of the damn cell fell in the bucket .Now i need a phone ARGGGGGGGG.

 

Cell phone survived the plunge.whoopie.