Finished First AutoX - "Must Go Faster"
You need to be able to plant the nose and pivot the rear, just a little, to get around those corners faster. Otherwise IMHO the chassis is plenty stiff once you ditch road-comfort things like soft springs and sway bars; the steering is good, brakes are great, amount of lateral traction is good.
As for brakes... I did LimeRock, so it's probably a bit faster than the average parking lot AutoX, but my oem brakes/pads were billowing smoke after just 2 laps. I did the bbk upgrade and am much happier with them... Ymmv, but maybe consider track pads 🤷
Usually tried aligning for max negative camber and close-to-zero toe on the track-specific cars and oem just less toe on daily drivers.
also had a few cops show up to watch (we were permitted and insured, they just heard the tire squeal) and convinced them to run their crown vics in the autocross.
also had a few cops show up to watch (we were permitted and insured, they just heard the tire squeal) and convinced them to run their crown vics in the autocross.

And yeah, the Crown Vics are surprisingly nimble! Seen a couple of them putting down respectable times.
Re: autocross vs. HPDE track day... my friend who is now an instructor had a really good point. Compare cost, time spent in prep/work/idle, and car maintenance required versus actual track time. HPDE is cheaper per minute and you spend MUCH more time on track, which is also much more like road driving conditions.
I believe the STI has an adjustable center diff, where there's a will...
Either lock it AWD or RWD, run it, then let the computer deal with it and run it. See what is faster and what feels more stable?? Maybe food for thought. I wouldn't prioritize that.
Re: brakes, for autocross: make sure you have clean/new fluid (flush, don't just bleed) and OEM or better pads - no parts store cheap stuff. I wouldn't spend $ on track pads for autocross since you won't get them hot enough. If you start doing HPDE, talk to other folks at that track day with similar weight cars and see what they're using. I ran Hawk Blues on track fo' ever but that tech is pretty old now, and that was dangerous on the street.
Look and see what the SCCA or NASA is doing in your region. Even if you're looking for a non-sanctioned track day, those folks will know the things.
Re: brakes, for autocross: make sure you have clean/new fluid (flush, don't just bleed) and OEM or better pads - no parts store cheap stuff. I wouldn't spend $ on track pads for autocross since you won't get them hot enough. If you start doing HPDE, talk to other folks at that track day with similar weight cars and see what they're using. I ran Hawk Blues on track fo' ever but that tech is pretty old now, and that was dangerous on the street.
Look and see what the SCCA or NASA is doing in your region. Even if you're looking for a non-sanctioned track day, those folks will know the things.
To be honest, if I had just dropped 100k on a Nissan with a delicate transmission I might be tepid with my right foot too... the first few times.
Either lock it AWD or RWD, run it, then let the computer deal with it and run it. See what is faster and what feels more stable?? Maybe food for thought. I wouldn't prioritize that.
brakes, for autocross: make sure you have clean/new fluid (flush, don't just bleed) and OEM or better pads - no parts store cheap stuff.
brakes, for autocross: make sure you have clean/new fluid (flush, don't just bleed) and OEM or better pads - no parts store cheap stuff.
Brakes: Yep. Completely flushed with DOT-4 fluid. Also upgraded to Steel lines. Will upgrade the pads when it's time to replace.
You have it backwards. If you get aftermarket bars, start stiffest rear and softest front. If that's too lively, then stiffen the front.
Only 41k miles.
Yeah, despite the RWD bias, just doesn't seem like the AWD G is a tail-happy drive - which is fine. And logical.
Don't tempt me!
There's an $800 miata nearby with 2 motors (1 blown, 1 good), thinkin real hard on that
Don't tempt me!
There's an $800 miata nearby with 2 motors (1 blown, 1 good), thinkin real hard on that
Here's the thing about HPDE or racing: use a car you can wad up and walk away from without imposing hardship on you. Tracking your DD is not a good idea. It's really rare to hurt your car at autoX, but Miatas are better at it. Baby, though...
Saw a guy total his DD Camero, he was smiling by the end of the day. Track insurance paid out the whole policy in cash.
I've done HPDEs in my daily but of necessity I'm moderating my performance to a non-tire-wall-impacting level.
It's different when I get in a prepped track car. Hell, I've got to spin it to see where the tire traction line is.
It's different when I get in a prepped track car. Hell, I've got to spin it to see where the tire traction line is.
Instead of starting a new thread, can you guys lend a hand with a wheel fitment question?
I have a set of 350z 17's that I think will work. Want to make sure I don't make any dumb mistakes though.
AWD Sedan is currently on journey 17's:
17 x 7.5 (+45) front & rear
225 55 R17 - all seasons
Here's what I'm thinking of using for track days only:
17 x 7.5 (+30) front
17 x 8 (+33) rear
215 45 R17 - Potenzas
Obviously this isn't the most ideal performance wheel setup, tires are a bit narrow, but it's what I have.
I've entered the #s in the wheel calculator, and to my untrained mind, they look like they should be okay.
The rolling diameter between front and back is basically zero, so the AWD should be okay, correct?
Are there any potential issue I might be missing here?
Do I need spacers to account for the offset difference?
Much appreciated!
I have a set of 350z 17's that I think will work. Want to make sure I don't make any dumb mistakes though.
AWD Sedan is currently on journey 17's:
17 x 7.5 (+45) front & rear
225 55 R17 - all seasons
Here's what I'm thinking of using for track days only:
17 x 7.5 (+30) front
17 x 8 (+33) rear
215 45 R17 - Potenzas
Obviously this isn't the most ideal performance wheel setup, tires are a bit narrow, but it's what I have.
I've entered the #s in the wheel calculator, and to my untrained mind, they look like they should be okay.
The rolling diameter between front and back is basically zero, so the AWD should be okay, correct?
Are there any potential issue I might be missing here?
Do I need spacers to account for the offset difference?
Much appreciated!
If you have any wish to be competitive, get better tires for track duty. I have to guess you're driving on them to your events, and that the sanctioning body limits tire stickiness?
And go 225 minimum, width is more important than sidewall on that boat.
And go 225 minimum, width is more important than sidewall on that boat.
If you have the XS, the 30 offset may not work up front. Test it first. XS has the same brakes as the limited Q50. Still a slider setup, but 2 piston I stead of 1 up front, and the calliper is slightly larger. Should be ok, but test fit before buying 100%
Thanks gents!
It's the journey trim, so the smaller brakes.
I am thinking of hauling the "race" wheels/tires to the event and putting them on there.
No restrictions on anything at this particular event. It's solely recreational, not SCCA.
Winners get bragging rights.
Okay, the search for tires continues...
It's the journey trim, so the smaller brakes.
I am thinking of hauling the "race" wheels/tires to the event and putting them on there.
No restrictions on anything at this particular event. It's solely recreational, not SCCA.
Winners get bragging rights.
Okay, the search for tires continues...







