LSD upgrade for G37 Journey
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LSD upgrade for G37 Journey
I have a '09 G37 Journey (7AT, non-AWD).
At this point, I'm starting to crack and am seriously considering spending the $$$ on a LSD.
Any thoughts on LSD options and how readily it could be installed? I dug around online recently, but it all seemed to be older info, and I would be interested in your thoughts on any current options.
At this point, I'm starting to crack and am seriously considering spending the $$$ on a LSD.
Any thoughts on LSD options and how readily it could be installed? I dug around online recently, but it all seemed to be older info, and I would be interested in your thoughts on any current options.
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From: Tempe,AZ
A differential from a g37 sport coupe will work (3.69) if it's from a manual transmission you will need go change the flanges. There all compatible the manual and auto ones even the HR g35 differentials from the sedan too
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Oh wow, this is way cheaper than I thought.
This basically just a bolt in replacement, correct? That appears to be the case, though perhaps a bit of a pain. Is the G37S OEM LSD just as good / better / worse than a lunchbox LSD or whatever may be paired with the IPL models et al.?
I'm presently doing homework as to what else I should do at the same time e.g. subframe differential bushing replacement -- anything else?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-11-12-13-14-INFINITI-G37S-SPORT-OEM-ATM-LSD-REAR-DIFFERENTIAL-DIFF-3-3-/361482416018?rmvSB=true
This basically just a bolt in replacement, correct? That appears to be the case, though perhaps a bit of a pain. Is the G37S OEM LSD just as good / better / worse than a lunchbox LSD or whatever may be paired with the IPL models et al.?
I'm presently doing homework as to what else I should do at the same time e.g. subframe differential bushing replacement -- anything else?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-10-11-12-13-14-INFINITI-G37S-SPORT-OEM-ATM-LSD-REAR-DIFFERENTIAL-DIFF-3-3-/361482416018?rmvSB=true
Last edited by DanG37; Jun 3, 2016 at 03:08 AM.
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From: Tempe,AZ
So I believe the ipl ones are the same, I know that the convertible had the 4.08 gears I believe and that's the best one for gearing so if you find one of those it'll be even better. I would change the fluid and upgrade to white line diff bushings when doing that and also upgrading the frame bushings
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Quaife
[Edit: Also looking at Wavetrac] I'm doing some additional homework on this. Apparently the Quaife offering is one of the best routes to take? Since I'll be investing all this time and work, I'm considering just spending another $700-900 on the part to go this route vs. a junkyard OEM LSD. Worth it?
Bushings
This the correct Whiteline diff bushing kit? I read their removal tool does not work on the G37. True?
And is this what you were referring to re the frame bushings? Or is the G37 different from G35 in this regard?
Tools
With regard to tools, I already have a 1/2" breaker bar and hydraulic jack and am doing homework on a good torque wrench. I may also treat myself to an Ingersoll-rand impact wrench or the like, but perhaps not if I go the Quaife route.
[Edit: Also looking at Wavetrac] I'm doing some additional homework on this. Apparently the Quaife offering is one of the best routes to take? Since I'll be investing all this time and work, I'm considering just spending another $700-900 on the part to go this route vs. a junkyard OEM LSD. Worth it?
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...al-p-2397.html
(For me, I'd be choosing the the 7AT, open diff option. I should probably price shop this part a bit, but I've read good things about Z1.)
I read trying to replace the side bearings (which I see Z1 also refers to, in their additional parts section) would be a fruitless attempt for a DYIer. True?(For me, I'd be choosing the the 7AT, open diff option. I should probably price shop this part a bit, but I've read good things about Z1.)
Bushings
This the correct Whiteline diff bushing kit? I read their removal tool does not work on the G37. True?
And is this what you were referring to re the frame bushings? Or is the G37 different from G35 in this regard?
Tools
With regard to tools, I already have a 1/2" breaker bar and hydraulic jack and am doing homework on a good torque wrench. I may also treat myself to an Ingersoll-rand impact wrench or the like, but perhaps not if I go the Quaife route.
Last edited by DanG37; Jun 5, 2016 at 08:30 PM.
If I were doing it, I'd go with the Quaife as well. The stock LSD in the sport/IPL can wear out over time or when it gets too hot essentially making it an open diff. The Wavetrack doesn't make one for the 7spd AT. Wish they did!
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Yeah, I'm on the fence. Going with OEM LSD is cheap at $300, but what's really attractive to me is how easy it would be. I'd be spending most of my time on the rear diff / subframe bushing. In fact I'm considering doing the rear diff bushing replacement on its own, before hand, should I decide on the Quaife route.
Re Quaife, the sticky bit for me is not so much the time or even necessary the extra ~$900 per se as much as it is my present lack of know-how. I'm spending a good bit of time doing homework, but most of the information I'm finding is very much not G37 specific.
Re Quaife, the sticky bit for me is not so much the time or even necessary the extra ~$900 per se as much as it is my present lack of know-how. I'm spending a good bit of time doing homework, but most of the information I'm finding is very much not G37 specific.
Another factor is spending an extra $900 may not make much sense considering how much I dislike my 7AT vs. other ATs I've driven, but I would likely burn at least this much just in trading for a theoretically equivalently priced car. Maybe it's not the 7AT itself, or maybe I I have a torque converter issue or it's just rear diff bushing, but when try to merge from zero to i-have-to-merge-now, there's a 2 second lag after hitting the throttle after which the car lurches forward only to unlurch after I let off the gas a little to keep from just spinning tires and dangerously going nowhere.
(Not sure if it's related, but I had the dealer replace the AT fluid, and when I tried to leave the dealer, the engine reved...and the car went nowhere. And after me finally realizing it was not me somehow operating an AT incorrectly, e.g. I (perhaps stupidly) tried D1 as well, I got out of the car to see a pool of AT everywhere and having at that point attracted a number of people due to hearing the engine reving. So yeah, not sure if it's just that I and they together compromised this 7AT)
Bummer about Wavetrac. Their marketing seemed to to suggest it was a true 2-wheel drive solution, which would make me feel way more comfortable with the G37 in the freezingrain/sleet/snow we sometimes get. I've gotten used to the nice feel of a RWD when driving at speed, and going the Wavetrac route for a RWD seems like a potential way to have one's cake and eat it too when considering winter weather capability.
(Not sure if it's related, but I had the dealer replace the AT fluid, and when I tried to leave the dealer, the engine reved...and the car went nowhere. And after me finally realizing it was not me somehow operating an AT incorrectly, e.g. I (perhaps stupidly) tried D1 as well, I got out of the car to see a pool of AT everywhere and having at that point attracted a number of people due to hearing the engine reving. So yeah, not sure if it's just that I and they together compromised this 7AT)
Last edited by DanG37; Jun 7, 2016 at 04:10 AM.
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Wavetrac makes one for the manual (370z). I'd maybe inquire as the only diff (see what I did there!) is the mating flange between the differential and the driveshaft.
Honestly, I'd have a qualified shop install it and make sure it's shimmed correctly and what not. If you want to do all the bushings yourself, just take the pumpkin to them for the LSD installation.
My 7AT does not behave like that. My only complaint with it is it sometimes shifts into too low of a gear when accelerating instead of riding the torque wave. I need to use the paddles in D more often I guess. But completely draining the fluid like that could, at the very least, introduce air into the system and cause a lot of inconsistencies. Hopefully the dealer took care of you.
Honestly, for daily driving the stock viscous LSD is just fine and it's seamless. I tell myself that anyway while eyeing the aftermarket options.
Honestly, I'd have a qualified shop install it and make sure it's shimmed correctly and what not. If you want to do all the bushings yourself, just take the pumpkin to them for the LSD installation.
My 7AT does not behave like that. My only complaint with it is it sometimes shifts into too low of a gear when accelerating instead of riding the torque wave. I need to use the paddles in D more often I guess. But completely draining the fluid like that could, at the very least, introduce air into the system and cause a lot of inconsistencies. Hopefully the dealer took care of you.
Honestly, for daily driving the stock viscous LSD is just fine and it's seamless. I tell myself that anyway while eyeing the aftermarket options.
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Yeah, I learned about shimming and pre-load from this Focus ST LSD install video -- though the use of a hammer instead of a press just seems wrong to me, but that may very well reflect my level of ignorance.
I don't know of any shops that i would trust with such an install. I'd love to find a VAC Motorsports equivalent for Infiniti.If you know of a top-rated shop in the general mid to south eastern region of the US, or within a weekend trip from there, please do give me a shout, as half of me would just love to spend the money and be done with it (and the other half would rather just spend that money on tools I could potentially keep for a lifetime). I'll likely be on the other side of the country again not too long from now too. (It would also be great to talk with such a shop with regard to my 7AT, since the dealer basically gave me a lifetime guarantee if it ever went wrong, but of course they are going to be the ones to tell me if anything is as it shouldn't be.)
I don't know of any shops that i would trust with such an install. I'd love to find a VAC Motorsports equivalent for Infiniti.If you know of a top-rated shop in the general mid to south eastern region of the US, or within a weekend trip from there, please do give me a shout, as half of me would just love to spend the money and be done with it (and the other half would rather just spend that money on tools I could potentially keep for a lifetime). I'll likely be on the other side of the country again not too long from now too. (It would also be great to talk with such a shop with regard to my 7AT, since the dealer basically gave me a lifetime guarantee if it ever went wrong, but of course they are going to be the ones to tell me if anything is as it shouldn't be.)
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I'm really into cars but I don't know much about them mechanically speaking. I just got a '09 G37 Journey and I'm interested in getting an lsd since it currently has an open diff. I was just wondering if you were ever able to get yours and what you'd recommend for mine. The idea of finding a used lsd sounds appealing but I have no idea where to start. Thanks.
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If you want to go the OEM LSD route, you could check out car-part.com -- if you were mechanical. Since you're "don't know much about them mechanically speaking" though, I'm not sure if you're going to find a good shop that would be willing to put in a junk yard sport diff and stub axle flanges, nor just how much that would really save you all told when you consider labour costs, et al.
If you got money to burn, you could have a professional shop put in the below. (You'll need the stub axle flanges option, and you're want side bearings and seals too.) Out the door maybe ~$3000? But I'm presuming you would have bought a newer car if you had this money to burn.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/differ...sd-p-9675.html
If you're going to spend money, you may want to be considering a transmission swap at this point too/instead. Truth be told though, I'm presuming you're a young guy considering you just bought this car. My recommendation would be to go the opposite route -- live frugally (but not miserly), put the money into a Roth IRA, and simply enjoy the car as stock. Financial responsibility now will have a giant impact on your financial situation in the decades to come -- which will happen before you know it as time waits for no one.
If you got money to burn, you could have a professional shop put in the below. (You'll need the stub axle flanges option, and you're want side bearings and seals too.) Out the door maybe ~$3000? But I'm presuming you would have bought a newer car if you had this money to burn.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/differ...sd-p-9675.html
If you're going to spend money, you may want to be considering a transmission swap at this point too/instead. Truth be told though, I'm presuming you're a young guy considering you just bought this car. My recommendation would be to go the opposite route -- live frugally (but not miserly), put the money into a Roth IRA, and simply enjoy the car as stock. Financial responsibility now will have a giant impact on your financial situation in the decades to come -- which will happen before you know it as time waits for no one.
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If you want to go the OEM LSD route, you could check out car-part.com -- if you were mechanical. Since you're "don't know much about them mechanically speaking" though, I'm not sure if you're going to find a good shop that would be willing to put in a junk yard sport diff and stub axle flanges, nor just how much that would really save you all told when you consider labour costs, et al.
If you got money to burn, you could have a professional shop put in the below. (You'll need the stub axle flanges option, and you're want side bearings and seals too.) Out the door maybe ~$3000? But I'm presuming you would have bought a newer car if you had this money to burn.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/differ...sd-p-9675.html
If you're going to spend money, you may want to be considering a transmission swap at this point too/instead. Truth be told though, I'm presuming you're a young guy considering you just bought this car. My recommendation would be to go the opposite route -- live frugally (but not miserly), put the money into a Roth IRA, and simply enjoy the car as stock. Financial responsibility now will have a giant impact on your financial situation in the decades to come -- which will happen before you know it as time waits for no one.
If you got money to burn, you could have a professional shop put in the below. (You'll need the stub axle flanges option, and you're want side bearings and seals too.) Out the door maybe ~$3000? But I'm presuming you would have bought a newer car if you had this money to burn.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/differ...sd-p-9675.html
If you're going to spend money, you may want to be considering a transmission swap at this point too/instead. Truth be told though, I'm presuming you're a young guy considering you just bought this car. My recommendation would be to go the opposite route -- live frugally (but not miserly), put the money into a Roth IRA, and simply enjoy the car as stock. Financial responsibility now will have a giant impact on your financial situation in the decades to come -- which will happen before you know it as time waits for no one.
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