So to make this quick..

1. I installed my Takeda a couple of months ago. No problems whatsoever.
2. Swapped the single filter for a custom dual filter setup last month. No problems.
3. Removed front end ducts to cut out the rad support for better tube fitment.. Problems.

Car started right up, no issues. Drove around the block w/ the bumper off and got about 1/4 mile away and the idle started bouncing up and down and the car started to stutter. Pulled over and it stalled out. Tried to turn it over again with no luck. Then it turned over on the 2nd attempt but idled extremely rough. Third time it started right up and no problems since. Still have the Service Engine Soon light illuminated though.

Codes are:

P1233 - Change fuel line system
P1238 - Electronic throttle control actuator B2 short to ground

My guess is that cutting the duct out allowed for a significant enough increase in air flow that the A/F ratio was incorrect long enough to set the code. I'm just not sure why this didn't happen the first time I installed the intakes or new filters.

Any ideas?

 

Wrong. Not even close.
Your issues are not related to the intake. Come on fuel line should tip you off.
I have aam competition intakes and first had takeda no issues. With aam I too cute the support. It's not related to those codes. Take it to a shop as your not even close.
GL.

 

I didn't think my assumption was that far fetched. The codes are generic and don't represent the true underlying fault that the consult scanners would read. I altered an input to the engine involving air volume and the car reacted with faults regarding air and fuel metering.

I'm not taking the car to the shop unless it's entirely necessary though. For now I could try cleaning all the grounds in the engine bay and reset the ECU and see if the CEL comes back on.

Anyone else have any experience with these codes?

 

In a nutshell the driver's side throttle body is not happy.
First simple checks:
(1) Check for any worn, loose or disconnected wires around the driver's side throttle body
(2) Make sure battery voltage is more than 11 volts with the car running

The next step is to troubleshoot using section EC of the factory shop manual, page 1022. (link: Infiniti G35 / G37 Factory Service Manuals - NICOclub)

Note to all: You can't trust most scan tool definition of the code. They are not always accurate and it can mislead you. Use the factory shop manual and look the the code to get the ACTUAL definition.


Post how you make out and good luck.

----- extra info for those who like this stuff ----

Code Definitions from shop manual:
P1233 ELECTRIC THROTTLE CONTROL FUNCTION - Bank 2 (Driver's side)

The current opening angle of the throttle valve is detected by the throttle position sensor and it provides feed- back to the ECM to control the throttle control motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly in response to driving condition.

Possible Causes:
• Harness or connectors (Throttle control motor circuit is open or shorted)
• Electric throttle control actuator



P1238 ELECTRIC THROTTLE CONTROL ACTUATOR - Bank 2 (Driver's side)

The throttle position sensor detects the throttle valve position, and the opening and closing speed of the throt- tle valve and feeds the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve from these signals and the ECM controls the throttle control motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly in response to driving condition.

 

Based on the codes and details above I would clean the TBs, look for possible debris from cutting the shroud.
Reset the ECU, possibly reset the tb idle pos.
Check the connectors.(don't unplug them though)

 

Appreciate the input! Debris from cutting the rad support was another potential cause I was considering. I stuffed a rag in the passenger tube but forgot when I did the drivers side, which happens to be B2. I'll pull the throttle and inspect/clean it. I wonder if a plastic chip passed through and jammed the plate temporarily until it was injested by the engine. That would explain why it has been running fine for the past two days.

Will post back with an update later this afternoon. Again, appreciate the help.

 

Looks like I ingested a little piece of plastic. The throttle body does a self check from wide open to full close after every shut down so it must have broken free after the 2nd attempt to turn over the car. A little cleaning and an ECU reset and I should be good to go. Hopefully that little piece of debris didn't get lodged anywhere :/

 

^^^ Well that is a lot of good news and a little bad news.
More than likely the small piece of plastic is now melted to almost nothing, inside your cat. Nothing to worry about.

Glad it all worked out, but how did the plastic get there to begin with?

 

Problem solved. Cleaned the ETB and reset the ECU. Drove it for about an hour and didn't have any hiccups or MIL's.

Unfortunately this was completely user error. When I was cutting the rad support out for the intake, I didn't stuff a rag in driver side intake like I did for the passenger side. I did check for debris and swept the driver side out with a rag but something must have shot in there :/



On the flip side, the car runs much better. Without cutting the rad support, I had a terrible intake resonance after about 5k and up until redline. Apparently it was the pinched silicon elbows causing it.

 

Glad to hear you got it solved and are back to happy
Also a good reminder to keep those TBs well protected during this type of work.

 

i thought takeda didnt require any cutting...

 

It does not.

 

Lol I bet OP is gonna be sad to see this. Or was just picky and didn't want the coupler compressed at all

 

I've had the intakes installed for a few months. Can they be installed without cutting anything, of course. Should they be, probably not in my opinion.

Regardless of how you finesse the silicon elbows, they will rub and kink, restricting flow. Past 5-6k I would also get a huge resonance from the tubes vibrating against the composite rad support.

I feel much better with this intake now that the tubes are properly installed.

 

Nice grill and thanks for the "Thanks" Trying hard to get to 60