thats why I'm going to wrap my JWT tube in header wrap.

 

Metal

 

Man you guys are really making me confused about getting an intake or not. On the CobbTuning blog it says the stock airboxes work great, which they seem like they really do so the intake would be for more sound then any actual powergains before tuning. I really would not mind a bit more power and i figuered an intake would be a good place to start since it enhances the sound aswell. Everyone seems to have mix thoughs about intakes in general.

 

There is always going to be people with mixed opinions, but end of the day, what matters is what YOU want. We all know, that intakes are not TT's and SC's, so the power gains are at a MIN.
If your going to get an intake, it's mostly for sound.

 

Great move! That's why I keep pestly hounding for info as to where the heat is being observed and how much. I have both header wrap and heat shields if need be but I still think in my situation the temp differences will be neglible.

I couldn't agree more. But the science part of me is fascinated about the heat soak issue. I'll do my best to flush this out with data so those who purchase for the sound won't feel that they may be harming the motor or losing power.

 

Yea, I know what you mean, I want to get an intake but I know they will suffer from more heat soak from the metal pipes.

A couple of things I have though to improve the heat soak would be.

- Heat wrap the pipes
- Ceramic coat them (dk how that works?)
- Better heat sheilds.

How would I be able to measure heat soak, how do people measure intake temps?

I would really like to find a way to lower intake temps with the aftermarket systems that suffer from heat soak.

 

thanks IC08, I was thinking of getting it too but after reading..I also have mix feeling about it. Thanks for doing this and can't wait the data.

 

What I'll do for testing in the coming week or two is to measure temperatures via the following parameters:

Highway:

• At the filter
• At the Intake tract
• At the throttle body

Idling for fifteen minutes after complete warm up:

• At the filter
• At the intake tract
• At the thottle body

I'll be sure to test on near identical outside temperature days and there will be results for the stock system, the Fujita with heat shield on the filters, the Fujita with wrap on the tract, and the Fujita with both the shield and wrap. I'll be using the same temperature gauge I do in the lab, which is a laser style model that indicates surface temp of where it's positioned. I've found this to be extremely accurate and although it will not perfectly reflect the temperature of the air in the manifold, it will provide comparable numbers against the stock system. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know!

 

How 'bout just some dyno testing instead?

 

Sure! Send me a ton of cash to do all those tests and convince my wife that I'm doing it for a good cause!

I can use a new G-Tech performance meter I have which at least if you're comparing numbers it generates across the board, it should be comparable and accurate. I'll add that to the testing.

Also, please note that just using exhaust mainfold wrap on the intake tube won't cut it. It's designed to keep heat in, not out. You need something with reflective properties like the DEI intake cover/wrap.

 

This is what I was commenting on

The rubber/plastic tubing of the stock intake does not get hot. It gets mildly warm at best.

Sometime next week I will see if I can pick up a thermostat to take a temp of the stock tubing and the JWT tubing after some driving to post some real temp numbers instead of this cool/warm/hot BS.

 

the metal is going to transfer heat a lot more. adding the header wrap will help keep the heat from getting to the metal so much and should help keep the air charge cooler. How much, not sure, probably not a negligible amount but it can't hurt. I'll probably use black wrap.

 

Okay, I was able to get two near identical days in a row here to get some testing done. The temperature was 89 degrees and partly cloudy. The highway portion of the test was performed following a non stop 45 mile drive. The idle portion of the test was done after the highway segment, for fifteen minutes with a closed hood. Here's the results thus far:

 

Three key factors noted thus far:

• Coolant running through stock throttle body makes it a constant source of heat no matter which intake is used. Even cold air once it approaches this area will be warmed regardless of the metal versus plastic debate. To truly achieve the coldest air possible, the lines need to be removed and a shut off valve installed ala Motordyne.

• The aluminum tube of the Fujita was consistently cooler at the air sensor location or intake tract 1. Further, the metal cooled FAR faster after the heating period. I've seen this fact in the lab as well where I work. Plastic resists temperature better than metal at first but once hot or cold, it takes over three times as long to return to ambient. After both tests, I couldn't leave my hand on either intake for long as they were BOTH hot. But after ten minutes the Fujita was 22 degrees cooler while the stock plastic had cooled only 6 degrees and was still untouchable.

• The entire engine compartment is pretty warm. I find it hard to believe that there's enough of a difference in the density of oxygen in the temperature differentials between the stock and Fujita intake to claim that either one would more so suffer from heat soak or that there's a power loss. While the Fujita has proven to be an improvement in temperature and power thus far, I believe the big part of the test is yet to come: Will properly insulating the intake protect it from the engine compartment enough to drop the temperature closer to ambient.

Tomorrow is supposed to rain but I'll get on that one next!

 

You show two sets of numbers in each column seperated by a / Just want to know what the difference is between the number before and after the /.