Help 4 mechanics couldn’t fix it
4 mechanics couldn’t fix it
Hi! My name is Sean. I have a 2008 G37 Automatic Rwd. Major problem and could use some advice. I was getting on the highway, the car cut out like it was out of gas. I pulled over but it was still running, however if I wanted to drive it responded similar to driving a manual and starting from a stop in 3rd gear. I turned the car off then restarted it. I noticed the Check engine, Slip and No VDC lights were all on. The car is extremely difficult to start, it barley stays running, acts like a misfire. When driven, has very little power, shifts extremely hard, will loose all fuel and shakes bad, then will get fuel take off and even go without me touching the accelerator. I’ve replaced many sensors. So here I am over 2 months later, $1400 spent and it’s been to 4 different mechanics, including the 4th was an Infiniti dealership who actually has the car running normal until I pulled into my driveway which was about 2.5 miles away. I took it back to Infiniti, they told me I would “Benefit” from a new ECU. So I decided to try a online repair and return for my ECU. They tested and said it was perfectly fine. I’m not sure how they came to that conclusion, yet Infiniti couldn’t? The code it gives is P0101. I have aftermarket intakes and some ridiculous accelerator pedal chip, that’s all that’s been done to the car. I’m not sure if I’m explaining well enough for anybody to give me the proper recommendation, just frustrated with no 2nd car.
I’d also like to add that when this happened I was on an entrance ramp cornering about as hard as it could handle without sliding off the road, it was also extremely low on fuel.
I’d also like to add that when this happened I was on an entrance ramp cornering about as hard as it could handle without sliding off the road, it was also extremely low on fuel.
Last edited by Joyride534n; Oct 9, 2019 at 03:58 PM.
That is a bad MAF code, I presume from you saying you "Changed many sensors" you replaced yours but did oyu go with OEM or aftermarket? ..these cars don't play well with aftermarket sensors and some of the aftermarket ones that are cheap are DOA...try putting back the OEM intakes as well...
Chip was removed right after the car freaked out. I’m wondering if that’s part of the problem because the ECU was reading that up until the issue, now it’s reading something different. The Infiniti mechanic said the fuel ratio was doing something he hadn’t seen before. However, the dealership was cool to me even after I declined to pay $2000 for a new ECU from them, they offered to reprogram a used one.
Hi! My name is Sean. I have a 2008 G37 Automatic Rwd. Major problem and could use some advice. I was getting on the highway, the car cut out like it was out of gas. I pulled over but it was still running, however if I wanted to drive it responded similar to driving a manual and starting from a stop in 3rd gear. I turned the car off then restarted it. I noticed the Check engine, Slip and No VDC lights were all on. The car is extremely difficult to start, it barley stays running, acts like a misfire. When driven, has very little power, shifts extremely hard, will loose all fuel and shakes bad, then will get fuel take off and even go without me touching the accelerator. I’ve replaced many sensors. So here I am over 2 months later, $1400 spent and it’s been to 4 different mechanics, including the 4th was an Infiniti dealership who actually has the car running normal until I pulled into my driveway which was about 2.5 miles away. I took it back to Infiniti, they told me I would “Benefit” from a new ECU. So I decided to try a online repair and return for my ECU. They tested and said it was perfectly fine. I’m not sure how they came to that conclusion, yet Infiniti couldn’t? The code it gives is P0101. I have aftermarket intakes and some RIDICULOUS ACCELERATOR PEDAL CHIP, that’s all that’s been done to the car. I’m not sure if I’m explaining well enough for anybody to give me the proper recommendation, just frustrated with no 2nd car.
Shift correctly
it's possible the pedal chip is only controlling one of the two throttles hence why it's giving you a MAF code, if the throttle is not opening then it will read low/etc
Any type of pedal/ accelerator shift are just a waste of time. The ecu can be tuned for whatever improvements/calibrations are needed.
it's possible the intakes are also messing with your MAF readings, etc.
I would remove and start from stock, throw that chip in the trash and check if by installing stock pipes will change anything, look out for spliced wiring etc.
Last edited by Rochester; Oct 9, 2019 at 09:26 AM. Reason: missing quote tags from OP
Next option...
Car needs tps to be able to start correctly
Shift correctly
it's possible the pedal chip is only controlling one of the two throttles hence why it's giving you a MAF code, if the throttle is not opening then it will read low/etc
Any type of pedal/ accelerator shift are just a waste of time. The ecu can be tuned for whatever improvements/calibrations are needed.
it's possible the intakes are also messing with your MAF readings, etc.
I would remove and start from stock, throw that chip in the trash and check if by installing stock pipes will change anything, look out for spliced wiring etc.
Shift correctly
it's possible the pedal chip is only controlling one of the two throttles hence why it's giving you a MAF code, if the throttle is not opening then it will read low/etc
Any type of pedal/ accelerator shift are just a waste of time. The ecu can be tuned for whatever improvements/calibrations are needed.
it's possible the intakes are also messing with your MAF readings, etc.
I would remove and start from stock, throw that chip in the trash and check if by installing stock pipes will change anything, look out for spliced wiring etc.
Last edited by Rochester; Oct 9, 2019 at 09:27 AM.
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Saw in another post how one fella was having MAF troubles...
It turned out to be a bad motor mount letting the MAF pug hit the engine bay wall under load.
I second ditching the chip as well
Is that the only code you've ever seen?
It turned out to be a bad motor mount letting the MAF pug hit the engine bay wall under load.
I second ditching the chip as well
Is that the only code you've ever seen?
Dude said he had aftermarket intakes...
We can't see from here how he mounted/orientated them, or if the MAF wiring harness/plug is routed/orientated funny (lack of slack jack)
Easy enough to open the hood, rev the engine and watch for excessive movement. If not, he can check one possibility off the list.
Have you never seen an engine jump due to a worn/torn motor mount?
We can't see from here how he mounted/orientated them, or if the MAF wiring harness/plug is routed/orientated funny (lack of slack jack)
Easy enough to open the hood, rev the engine and watch for excessive movement. If not, he can check one possibility off the list.
Have you never seen an engine jump due to a worn/torn motor mount?
Dude said he had aftermarket intakes...
We can't see from here how he mounted/orientated them, or if the MAF wiring harness/plug is routed/orientated funny (lack of slack jack)
Easy enough to open the hood, rev the engine and watch for excessive movement. If not, he can check one possibility off the list.
Have you never seen an engine jump due to a worn/torn motor mount?
We can't see from here how he mounted/orientated them, or if the MAF wiring harness/plug is routed/orientated funny (lack of slack jack)
Easy enough to open the hood, rev the engine and watch for excessive movement. If not, he can check one possibility off the list.
Have you never seen an engine jump due to a worn/torn motor mount?
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