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You can find the climate controlled seats control unit under the front of the seat there is some trim that has to be removed to get access This is the driver side there's one just like it under the passenger seat as well
THANKS Warpig! Your info and pictures helped me diagnose the same problem on my 2013 M37X,
MY Problem: When the drivers heated/cooled seat switch was turned on the red power light did not illuminate and there was no heating or cooling. This connector was melted to the CCSM Here is the shorted connector, pin 55 (power) and pin 58 (ground) were melted to the CCSM housing. Not sure what caused this to happen. here is the schematic from the se.pdf file.
Turns out the six wire connector on the CCSM module overheated and shorted (wire 55 and 58), It was very very hard to disconnect the wiring connector because it had melted to the plastic housing of the CCSM.
I rewired the connection to the CCSM and reinstalled it. Heating and cooling now work on the drivers seat.
What did you do to rewire the plug? If you found a pigtail where did you get it? I have the exact same issue on my M37 and am trying to find a new plug or pigtail, the oem. Plug is beyond repair for me.
What did you do to rewire the plug? If you found a pigtail where did you get it? I have the exact same issue on my M37 and am trying to find a new plug or pigtail, the oem. Plug is beyond repair for me.
Hi Nathan,
I could not find a pigtail.
I couldn't reuse the purple plug either, it was too melted and deformed. I searched the internet long and hard for a replacement plug but couldn't find one.
I ended up tossing out the purple plug and wiring the harness directly to the CSS.
Parts used: a pack of six 20-16 FEMALE GM 150 METRI PACKs from Pep Boys (#85337). The 85377 connectors are the correct size for the pins on the CSS, I would get two packs, in case you make a bad crimp like me
My Solution:
Cut the 6 harness wires three inches from the purple plug and disposed of the purple plug,
Make six wire extensions, one for each of the six harness wires,
Crimp a GM 150 METRI connector to the end of each wire extension.
Connected the other end of the wire extension to the corresponding harness wire using a heat shrink wire connector. Take note the original wire harness wire color code that corresponds to the new wire,
Connected the new 50 METRI connector to the corresponding CSS connector.
My heated seats are now operational.
I do not know what caused the original meltdown so I suppose it could happen again. To try to prevent this from happening again I turn off my heated seats when not needed!!!!
Hope this helps you.
I will be getting a fire extinguisher to keep in my M37X .
Thanks to Warpig for the original info and pictures which enabled me to diagnose.
I couldn't reuse the purple plug either, it was too melted and deformed. I searched the internet long and hard for a replacement plug but couldn't find one.
I ended up tossing out the purple plug and wiring the harness directly to the CSS.
Parts used: a pack of six 20-16 FEMALE GM 150 METRI PACKs from Pep Boys (#85337). The 85377 connectors are the correct size for the pins on the CSS, I would get two packs, in case you make a bad crimp like me
My Solution:
Cut the 6 harness wires three inches from the purple plug and disposed of the purple plug,
Make six wire extensions, one for each of the six harness wires,
Crimp a GM 150 METRI connector to the end of each wire extension.
Connected the other end of the wire extension to the corresponding harness wire using a heat shrink wire connector. Take note the original wire harness wire color code that corresponds to the new wire,
Connected the new 50 METRI connector to the corresponding CSS connector.
My heated seats are now operational.
I do not know what caused the original meltdown so I suppose it could happen again. To try to prevent this from happening again I turn off my heated seats when not needed!!!!
Hope this helps you.
I will be getting a fire extinguisher to keep in my M37X .
Thanks to Warpig for the original info and pictures which enabled me to diagnose.
Bruce
Thank you for the info sir. I'm going to try like hell to get a plug, if not I'll probably do this myself. Such an annoying problem.
I can't remember the part number right now but my buddy ordered the pins also. Hope this helps!
Hello, I also have an M37X with the same issue. I made an account for this forum because this was the only conversation I could find regarding this issue.
I purchased a replacement Delphi connector and terminals. I was able to pull apart the original, burnt connector, and even save the original terminals. They were clean and I didn’t damage them when removing the connector so I re-used them for the new Delphi connector.
This resolved my issue for about 6 weeks. On occasion I thought I smelled burning plastic but denial got the best of me and I didn’t want to believe it was the connector. Sure enough, a couple of days ago, it stopped working again.
I have yet to take it back apart but I already know what I will find. There must be something else that is wrong which is causing the heated/vented seat to draw too much current.
Hello, I also have an M37X with the same issue. I made an account for this forum because this was the only conversation I could find regarding this issue.
I purchased a replacement Delphi connector and terminals. I was able to pull apart the original, burnt connector, and even save the original terminals. They were clean and I didn’t damage them when removing the connector so I re-used them for the new Delphi connector.
This resolved my issue for about 6 weeks. On occasion I thought I smelled burning plastic but denial got the best of me and I didn’t want to believe it was the connector. Sure enough, a couple of days ago, it stopped working again.
I have yet to take it back apart but I already know what I will find. There must be something else that is wrong which is causing the heated/vented seat to draw too much current.
I think the cause of the initial problem is poor connections to the tabs in the connector. I'm going to cut the original connector off and splice the new connector with new pins in, and dielectric grease everything.
I think the cause of the initial problem is poor connections to the tabs in the connector. I'm going to cut the original connector off and splice the new connector with new pins in, and dielectric grease everything.
update again, put my new connector on plugged everything in and found the bearings in the fan motor itself are bad. This may very well be part of the problem with the connector melting. As time goes on the bad bearings cause the fan to draw more current to run which could slowly heat up over time causing the melting. Very easy to tell if the bearings are bad, with everything off in the car and you turn the climate control seat on you will hear the fan motor making a decent amount of noise.
update again, put my new connector on plugged everything in and found the bearings in the fan motor itself are bad. This may very well be part of the problem with the connector melting. As time goes on the bad bearings cause the fan to draw more current to run which could slowly heat up over time causing the melting. Very easy to tell if the bearings are bad, with everything off in the car and you turn the climate control seat on you will hear the fan motor making a decent amount of noise.
I have had the same problem with my 2014 pathfinder. I have spliced the wires and hard wired them to the control unit as well as re-pinning a new connector only to have it melt again. I have swapped units from passenger side to driver side thinking it might be a faulty unit but a week later there were signs of burning as well on the other control unit. So I might have to remove the seat and take a closer look. Any other suggestions before I go there?
Last edited by Angelo Messina; Nov 29, 2019 at 09:21 PM.
I have had the same problem with my 2014 pathfinder. I have spliced the wires and hard wired them to the control unit as well as re-pinning a new connector only to have it melt again. I have swapped units from passenger side to driver side thinking it might be a faulty unit but a week later there were signs of burning as well on the other control unit. So I might have to remove the seat and take a closer look. Any other suggestions before I go there?
Unfortunately I think pulling the seat is your best bet, that's what I'm going to be doing today myself. I would bet the motor is bad, causing the increased current draw. I'm also curious if this is only caused on the heated seat setting because power is being drawn for the fan motor and the heating element, or if it happens while on the AC setting as well.
