Drivers side heat/vent seat not working properly
#16
#17
THANKS Warpig! Your info and pictures helped me diagnose the same problem on my 2013 M37X,
MY Problem: When the drivers heated/cooled seat switch was turned on the red power light did not illuminate and there was no heating or cooling.
This connector was melted to the CCSM
Here is the shorted connector, pin 55 (power) and pin 58 (ground) were melted to the CCSM housing. Not sure what caused this to happen.
here is the schematic from the se.pdf file.
Turns out the six wire connector on the CCSM module overheated and shorted (wire 55 and 58), It was very very hard to disconnect the wiring connector because it had melted to the plastic housing of the CCSM.
Your contribution and the following file were invaluable in helping me diagnosing the problem: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2013/SE.pdf
MY Problem: When the drivers heated/cooled seat switch was turned on the red power light did not illuminate and there was no heating or cooling.
This connector was melted to the CCSM
Here is the shorted connector, pin 55 (power) and pin 58 (ground) were melted to the CCSM housing. Not sure what caused this to happen.
here is the schematic from the se.pdf file.
Turns out the six wire connector on the CCSM module overheated and shorted (wire 55 and 58), It was very very hard to disconnect the wiring connector because it had melted to the plastic housing of the CCSM.
Your contribution and the following file were invaluable in helping me diagnosing the problem: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2013/SE.pdf
Last edited by bzakett; 10-28-2019 at 08:16 PM. Reason: adding more detail
#19
What did you do to rewire the plug? If you found a pigtail where did you get it? I have the exact same issue on my M37 and am trying to find a new plug or pigtail, the oem. Plug is beyond repair for me.
#20
I could not find a pigtail.
I couldn't reuse the purple plug either, it was too melted and deformed. I searched the internet long and hard for a replacement plug but couldn't find one.
I ended up tossing out the purple plug and wiring the harness directly to the CSS.
Parts used: a pack of six 20-16 FEMALE GM 150 METRI PACKs from Pep Boys (#85337). The 85377 connectors are the correct size for the pins on the CSS, I would get two packs, in case you make a bad crimp like me
My Solution:
- Cut the 6 harness wires three inches from the purple plug and disposed of the purple plug,
- Make six wire extensions, one for each of the six harness wires,
- Crimp a GM 150 METRI connector to the end of each wire extension.
- Connected the other end of the wire extension to the corresponding harness wire using a heat shrink wire connector. Take note the original wire harness wire color code that corresponds to the new wire,
- Connected the new 50 METRI connector to the corresponding CSS connector.
My heated seats are now operational.
I do not know what caused the original meltdown so I suppose it could happen again. To try to prevent this from happening again I turn off my heated seats when not needed!!!!
Hope this helps you.
I will be getting a fire extinguisher to keep in my M37X .
Thanks to Warpig for the original info and pictures which enabled me to diagnose.
Bruce
Last edited by bzakett; 11-18-2019 at 12:21 AM.
#21
Hi Nathan,
I could not find a pigtail.
I couldn't reuse the purple plug either, it was too melted and deformed. I searched the internet long and hard for a replacement plug but couldn't find one.
I ended up tossing out the purple plug and wiring the harness directly to the CSS.
Parts used: a pack of six 20-16 FEMALE GM 150 METRI PACKs from Pep Boys (#85337). The 85377 connectors are the correct size for the pins on the CSS, I would get two packs, in case you make a bad crimp like me
My Solution:
My heated seats are now operational.
I do not know what caused the original meltdown so I suppose it could happen again. To try to prevent this from happening again I turn off my heated seats when not needed!!!!
Hope this helps you.
I will be getting a fire extinguisher to keep in my M37X .
Thanks to Warpig for the original info and pictures which enabled me to diagnose.
Bruce
I could not find a pigtail.
I couldn't reuse the purple plug either, it was too melted and deformed. I searched the internet long and hard for a replacement plug but couldn't find one.
I ended up tossing out the purple plug and wiring the harness directly to the CSS.
Parts used: a pack of six 20-16 FEMALE GM 150 METRI PACKs from Pep Boys (#85337). The 85377 connectors are the correct size for the pins on the CSS, I would get two packs, in case you make a bad crimp like me
My Solution:
- Cut the 6 harness wires three inches from the purple plug and disposed of the purple plug,
- Make six wire extensions, one for each of the six harness wires,
- Crimp a GM 150 METRI connector to the end of each wire extension.
- Connected the other end of the wire extension to the corresponding harness wire using a heat shrink wire connector. Take note the original wire harness wire color code that corresponds to the new wire,
- Connected the new 50 METRI connector to the corresponding CSS connector.
My heated seats are now operational.
I do not know what caused the original meltdown so I suppose it could happen again. To try to prevent this from happening again I turn off my heated seats when not needed!!!!
Hope this helps you.
I will be getting a fire extinguisher to keep in my M37X .
Thanks to Warpig for the original info and pictures which enabled me to diagnose.
Bruce
#23
I can't remember the part number right now but my buddy ordered the pins also. Hope this helps!
The following users liked this post:
bzakett (11-21-2019)
#24
Some folks at nicoclub having the same problem with their heated seats, https://forums.nicoclub.com/heated-seats-t596818.html
Here are the proper parts:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-15332141-B
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-12191812
Here are the proper parts:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-15332141-B
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-12191812
#25
The Delphi part number is 15332141 and you can buy them from here... https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...srEBi6R5Diw%3D
I can't remember the part number right now but my buddy ordered the pins also. Hope this helps!
I can't remember the part number right now but my buddy ordered the pins also. Hope this helps!
I purchased a replacement Delphi connector and terminals. I was able to pull apart the original, burnt connector, and even save the original terminals. They were clean and I didn’t damage them when removing the connector so I re-used them for the new Delphi connector.
This resolved my issue for about 6 weeks. On occasion I thought I smelled burning plastic but denial got the best of me and I didn’t want to believe it was the connector. Sure enough, a couple of days ago, it stopped working again.
I have yet to take it back apart but I already know what I will find. There must be something else that is wrong which is causing the heated/vented seat to draw too much current.
#26
829-15332141 Aptiv Automotive Connectors $1.87 each. Ordered from Mouser on Tuesday was delivered on Thursday
829-12191812 Aptiv Automotive Connectors $0.30 each, Ordered from Mouser on Tuesday was delivered on Thursday
Last edited by bzakett; 11-21-2019 at 08:29 PM. Reason: extra info
#27
Hello, I also have an M37X with the same issue. I made an account for this forum because this was the only conversation I could find regarding this issue.
I purchased a replacement Delphi connector and terminals. I was able to pull apart the original, burnt connector, and even save the original terminals. They were clean and I didn’t damage them when removing the connector so I re-used them for the new Delphi connector.
This resolved my issue for about 6 weeks. On occasion I thought I smelled burning plastic but denial got the best of me and I didn’t want to believe it was the connector. Sure enough, a couple of days ago, it stopped working again.
I have yet to take it back apart but I already know what I will find. There must be something else that is wrong which is causing the heated/vented seat to draw too much current.
I purchased a replacement Delphi connector and terminals. I was able to pull apart the original, burnt connector, and even save the original terminals. They were clean and I didn’t damage them when removing the connector so I re-used them for the new Delphi connector.
This resolved my issue for about 6 weeks. On occasion I thought I smelled burning plastic but denial got the best of me and I didn’t want to believe it was the connector. Sure enough, a couple of days ago, it stopped working again.
I have yet to take it back apart but I already know what I will find. There must be something else that is wrong which is causing the heated/vented seat to draw too much current.
#28
update again, put my new connector on plugged everything in and found the bearings in the fan motor itself are bad. This may very well be part of the problem with the connector melting. As time goes on the bad bearings cause the fan to draw more current to run which could slowly heat up over time causing the melting. Very easy to tell if the bearings are bad, with everything off in the car and you turn the climate control seat on you will hear the fan motor making a decent amount of noise.
#29
update again, put my new connector on plugged everything in and found the bearings in the fan motor itself are bad. This may very well be part of the problem with the connector melting. As time goes on the bad bearings cause the fan to draw more current to run which could slowly heat up over time causing the melting. Very easy to tell if the bearings are bad, with everything off in the car and you turn the climate control seat on you will hear the fan motor making a decent amount of noise.
I have had the same problem with my 2014 pathfinder. I have spliced the wires and hard wired them to the control unit as well as re-pinning a new connector only to have it melt again. I have swapped units from passenger side to driver side thinking it might be a faulty unit but a week later there were signs of burning as well on the other control unit. So I might have to remove the seat and take a closer look. Any other suggestions before I go there?
Last edited by Angelo Messina; 11-29-2019 at 09:21 PM.
#30
I have had the same problem with my 2014 pathfinder. I have spliced the wires and hard wired them to the control unit as well as re-pinning a new connector only to have it melt again. I have swapped units from passenger side to driver side thinking it might be a faulty unit but a week later there were signs of burning as well on the other control unit. So I might have to remove the seat and take a closer look. Any other suggestions before I go there?