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Help P2A03 code and Battery etc... help please

Old Feb 26, 2015 | 08:34 PM
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P2A03 code and Battery etc... help please

Hello fellow member I have my first official problems with my G37S. I am not very mechanically inclined in diagnosing things so I need your help. Going in order of what is happening. For a couple weeks now I hear a squaking noise coming from the front end of the car more sprecifically I think its one of the belt pullies. It happens only when the car is idleing and it happens intermittently.

The second thing is that my car seems to have a harder time cranking in the cold weather so I had my battery checked out at AutoZone and they said its a bad battery. What I would like to know is that can it be changed under warranty from the dealer or do I have to pay for it. If I have to pay for it what battery is good and long lasting?

The third thing is that I have a check engine light and the code it throws is a P2A03 which autozone said it was for air fuel ratio, but from what Ive come to understand is that it may be the 02 sensor. How do I go about finding out what is wrong? sensor damage or leaks and stuff like that?

Next and finally is my transmission. I have done a transmission flush at 18k miles with Amsoil fluids and since then my trans has been notchy as a ****. Its almost non existent in the summer but winter its a PITA. Also what I notice is that whenever I am cruising on the highway and have to pass someone or down**** from 6th to 5th gear it occasionally grinds. This doesnt happen in any other gear except from 6-5. What can be the cause here? Syncros, the clutch or flywheel itself or just change the fluid to Red Line or Motul and see what happens? Would the dealer cover it?

Background on my car.
2011 G37S Sedan 6MT 31973 miles
I bought the car in Oct 2011 and warranty expires this October. My car is moderately modded and I am frowned upon by service people at the dealer because of that.

I would appreciate all the help and advice I can get. I would like to avoid being taken advantage of by the dealer and will only go there if necessary.

Sunny
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 11:24 AM
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Anyone have an idea?
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 03:11 PM
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First off, your car should be under warranty still, right? I'd just take it to the dealer and let them figure out your issues. I will say that it is totally possible that you have a 5-6 synchro going out (provided the gear oil you put in was to proper spec). I had my 5-6 synchro go out at about 45K miles. It was all covered under warranty. Before swapping the entire tranny for a new one, all they wanted to verify was that the oil I put in it was up to spec. As for a good battery, I'd just go to Costco and pick up an Interstate from them. The battery quality and Costco's warranty/return policy makes it a great deal for the price.

.02
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Ok so here is an update. The code is for AF sensor which has to be replaced which they are not covering because they claim its my fault and I have aftermarket HFC and exhaust. This doesnt make sense to me because that specific sensor comes before the HFC's. The battery that I am putting in is optimum which my mechanic told me is good. The rest I have to bring the car back to the dealer to get done.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Sunny G
Ok so here is an update. The code is for AF sensor which has to be replaced which they are not covering because they claim its my fault and I have aftermarket HFC and exhaust. This doesnt make sense to me because that specific sensor comes before the HFC's. The battery that I am putting in is optimum which my mechanic told me is good. The rest I have to bring the car back to the dealer to get done.
When my previous 06 G35 needed a battery after pricing them the dealer was about $20 higher so I had the dealer replace the battery with a Interstate 700CCA battery
When I priced tires for my current G37S again the dealer was only slightly higher than local tire shops
I purchased my Michelin Pilot AS3's at the dealer.
When you are a customer for service at the dealer that goes a long way when you need other diagnostic services done.
I've had discussions with service people over the type of customers they have to deal with. No one wants to deal with some demanding person who never has any work done at the dealer.

I don't let anyone but the dealer touch my G
I've always found their service to be excellent.
Very often when you go cheap you go twice

Just my $.02

Telcoman
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Oh I am not the demanding type. I don't go so into someone else's place of business and act like an idiot because I don't want that happening at mine. Also the dealer has done work on my car and it's only work the dealer can do while my regular mechanic wouldn't be able to do it. What I have noticed in the 8 years I've owned 3 G's is that they have been getting more aggressive to their non regular customer. Anyway I'm going back to them on Wednesday to drop the car off. Is there anything else I should have them look maybe an oil pressure test?
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Sunny G
For a couple weeks now I hear a squaking noise coming from the front end of the car more sprecifically I think its one of the belt pullies. It happens only when the car is idleing and it happens intermittently.
Perhaps it needs a belt or an idler pulley?
Let the dealer inspect it.

Originally Posted by Sunny G
The second thing is that my car seems to have a harder time cranking in the cold weather so I had my battery checked out at AutoZone and they said its a bad battery. What I would like to know is that can it be changed under warranty from the dealer or do I have to pay for it. If I have to pay for it what battery is good and long lasting?
It is time for a new battery. Check prices and if the dealer is close let the dealer put in a 700CCA battery.

Originally Posted by Sunny G
The third thing is that I have a check engine light and the code it throws is a P2A03 which autozone said it was for air fuel ratio, but from what Ive come to understand is that it may be the 02 sensor. How do I go about finding out what is wrong? sensor damage or leaks and stuff like that?
The dealer will provide an estimate.

Originally Posted by Sunny G
Next and finally is my transmission. I have done a transmission flush at 18k miles with Amsoil fluids and since then my trans has been notchy as a ****. Its almost non existent in the summer but winter its a PITA. Also what I notice is that whenever I am cruising on the highway and have to pass someone or down**** from 6th to 5th gear it occasionally grinds. This doesnt happen in any other gear except from 6-5. What can be the cause here? Syncros, the clutch or flywheel itself or just change the fluid to Red Line or Motul and see what happens? Would the dealer cover it?
Not sure why you did a transmission flush at only 18k miles?
That certainly was not needed and perhaps you put the incorrect transmission fluid into your vehicle?

Never try to fix anything that isn't broke.

Let the dealer inspect and test drive your vehicle with you.

Good luck

Telcoman
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 11:59 AM
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So this morning I started my car and the SES light didnt come on. The sensor may have corrected itself, but will check it out again anyway. The battery is going in today, so only two things for the dealer to see.

As for the fluids I wanted to switch the diff and trans to synthetic that why I did the change at 18k miles. Also I used 75W90 fluid which is what is specified in the service manual. Same with the differential as well. I appreciate the help in diagnosing my repairs. I am learning more about this car everyday on how to deal with these problems and what to expect when I get to higher mileage. Modding the car is so different than repairing it and its a learning experience.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunny G
So this morning I started my car and the SES light didnt come on. The sensor may have corrected itself, but will check it out again anyway. The battery is going in today, so only two things for the dealer to see.

As for the fluids I wanted to switch the diff and trans to synthetic that why I did the change at 18k miles. Also I used 75W90 fluid which is what is specified in the service manual. Same with the differential as well. I appreciate the help in diagnosing my repairs. I am learning more about this car everyday on how to deal with these problems and what to expect when I get to higher mileage. Modding the car is so different than repairing it and its a learning experience.
Make sure you put a GL4 spec gear oil in the tranny; NO GL5!
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 12:44 PM
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yup API-GL4 Amsoil 75W90
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by telcoman

Very often when you go cheap you go twice

Just my $.02

Telcoman
"..when u go cheap u go twice.."

Nice!! Thnx for new vocabulary phrase

Anywho,, thnx for tip on dealership vs other.. Gotta give to receive

GL @ dealership OP
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 05:08 PM
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I'll be back on Wednesday with updates.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 02:39 PM
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just got my P2A03 problem fixed after 3 months of it keep coming on every 30 miles. My car is running test pipes, and turned out, there was a small crack near the left O2 sensor on the test pipe, causing weird result of Air & Fuel.

Had it welded for $25 and been fine with no code for the past 100 miles!
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Sunny G
...I used 75W90 fluid which is what is specified in the service manual. Same with the differential as well...
Off topic a bit and this may just be a typo, but be careful of your fluid specifications. I noticed this comment and thought, "I just did mine a few weeks back, and it called for different fluids. I checked the FSM for your model year and confirmed the Manual Trans Fluid has a different spec from the Differential for everything but 7 A/T 2WD.
Originally Posted by Infiniti 2011 G37 Sedan FSM
[Differential gear oil:] Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5
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