Spongy Clutch Pedal
03-20-2015, 03:44 PM
#33
Registered User
When the dealer replaced my CSC and MC, they used the GTR fluid and said it was what they were now recommending per some ITB that came out. I do not have the number for that ITB. I can't tell the difference between the GTR spec and the regular fluid it used to have, but I think the improvement is supposed to be more in its ability to withstand heat and time better over the long run, not in the immediate 'feel'.
03-23-2015, 01:13 AM
#34
Okay guys, I need some serious help. I've been trying to remove the master cylinder from the car but have had no luck:
Notice in the picture that I've gotten it off the firewall (aside from the rod) but cannot get enough room to get it to come up. I followed the instructions from GPL4 here https://www.myg37.com/forums/vendor-...ce-review.html but still am unable to remove it from the car.
Can anyone who has actually removed the master cylinder help?
Sorry vqsmile, but I had to try...
Notice in the picture that I've gotten it off the firewall (aside from the rod) but cannot get enough room to get it to come up. I followed the instructions from GPL4 here https://www.myg37.com/forums/vendor-...ce-review.html but still am unable to remove it from the car.
Can anyone who has actually removed the master cylinder help?
Sorry vqsmile, but I had to try...
03-23-2015, 02:25 AM
#35
Registered User
Did you loosen the ABS module and shift it to allow more room?
(And certainly no apology required. I always admire anyone who attempts their own repairs.
)
(And certainly no apology required. I always admire anyone who attempts their own repairs.
)
03-23-2015, 04:41 AM
#36
Thanks vqsmile, I appreciate that. I knew I would run into some problems if i tried but it was really bugging me that I didn't at least give it a shot so I just had to try.
But yes, I did loosen the ABS module from the bottom and shifted it a bit. It provided some room for me to pull the MC out but not enough to take it all the way out. I'm not sure but maybe I'm not moving the module enough but it just seemed to not want to budge anymore and I'm afraid of forcing it and causing a kink in one of the lines somewhere so I stopped. There's just this black bracket that the module sits on top of that the MC hits and I cannot seem to get around it.
But yes, I did loosen the ABS module from the bottom and shifted it a bit. It provided some room for me to pull the MC out but not enough to take it all the way out. I'm not sure but maybe I'm not moving the module enough but it just seemed to not want to budge anymore and I'm afraid of forcing it and causing a kink in one of the lines somewhere so I stopped. There's just this black bracket that the module sits on top of that the MC hits and I cannot seem to get around it.
03-23-2015, 09:49 AM
#37
Take the pedal assy out, Its only one more bolt up top and will give you more room for the studs to clear the firewall. Turn the master upside down and it will come out above the ABS unit. There's one spot/position it will slide up out of there. If you still cannot manage to wiggle it out take the damper off the bottom with the master upside down in there, Then it will pop right out.
Another reason we use the 370Z master is that big damper is not on the bottom and they come right out.
Another reason we use the 370Z master is that big damper is not on the bottom and they come right out.
03-23-2015, 01:29 PM
#38
Zspeed, this damper rod you're referring to, is that the MC plunger rod as circled in the pic below? Held in place by just the rubber boot, correct?
Thanks for the removal info. I'm sure it'll come in handy some day. The surrounding design is truly retarded. The FSM tells you to disconnect and remove the hard lines from the ABS module.
@Slade, what did you use as a stud remover, 2 nuts tightened against one another?
Thanks for the removal info. I'm sure it'll come in handy some day. The surrounding design is truly retarded. The FSM tells you to disconnect and remove the hard lines from the ABS module.
@Slade, what did you use as a stud remover, 2 nuts tightened against one another?
03-23-2015, 04:28 PM
#41
I think I understand what you're referring to.
370Z CMC
G37 CMC
This damper piece you're referring to is circled in red in the 2nd pic, right? What purpose does this actually serve? Removal is just to unscrew counterclockwise with some channel locks or similar?
03-23-2015, 05:43 PM
#42
Registered User
I didn't know they were 100% compatible with the G37's since they changed them.
That would be good to know, as I have an extra BNIB one that I've been holding back from listing here for the G37 crowd.
Last edited by vqsmile; 03-24-2015 at 03:07 AM.
03-24-2015, 01:20 AM
#43
Well guys, I tried...and I failed miserably!!! The space for movement down there was so tight that I could not maneuver the master around to flip it upside down as instructed. Removing the pedal definitely gave it more room and there was a point where it was coming out but the damper that ZSpeed talked about prevented it from having enough room to come out. If I was somehow able to flip it upside down and remove the damper then I think I would have gotten the master out but alas, the battle has been lost... 
Anyways, in the end I just put everything back together and bled the system and the pedal feels nice and firm again (for now). I will be taking the car to a shop to do the work and given how much trouble it gave me, will gladly pay to have it done. lol
On a side note, I know a lot of people complain about how difficult it is to bleed the clutch system in these cars and I found that gravity bleeding is the best way to go. Anyone who read through this thread would see that the first time I bled the system in February, it took me over four and a half hours to bleed.
This time it took me no more than 45 mins. I just cracked open the bleeder and let it drip and drip and drip until all the air bubbles were gone. Then I let it drip some more just for good measure and after a couple pumps inside the car, everything was nice and firm again. Hope this will be helpful for someone.
Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help. I really really appreciate it!! I hope to take the car in sometime this week if the shop isn't too busy. Hopefully afterwards all will be well...maybe? lol
The space for movement down there was so tight that I could not maneuver the master around to flip it upside down as instructed. Removing the pedal definitely gave it more room and there was a point where it was coming out but the damper that ZSpeed talked about prevented it from having enough room to come out. If I was somehow able to flip it upside down and remove the damper then I think I would have gotten the master out but alas, the battle has been lost... Anyways, in the end I just put everything back together and bled the system and the pedal feels nice and firm again (for now). I will be taking the car to a shop to do the work and given how much trouble it gave me, will gladly pay to have it done. lol
On a side note, I know a lot of people complain about how difficult it is to bleed the clutch system in these cars and I found that gravity bleeding is the best way to go. Anyone who read through this thread would see that the first time I bled the system in February, it took me over four and a half hours to bleed.
This time it took me no more than 45 mins. I just cracked open the bleeder and let it drip and drip and drip until all the air bubbles were gone. Then I let it drip some more just for good measure and after a couple pumps inside the car, everything was nice and firm again. Hope this will be helpful for someone.Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help. I really really appreciate it!! I hope to take the car in sometime this week if the shop isn't too busy. Hopefully afterwards all will be well...maybe?
lol
Last edited by sLADe781; 03-24-2015 at 01:38 AM.
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Iilac (03-12-2016)
03-26-2015, 10:42 AM
#45
This is how we bleed them, Fill with fluid, Pump pedal with bleeder "Open" , Fill res again, Let gravity go for about a half of reservoir. Tighten bleeder, pump pedal until it gets pressure this should not take more than a few pumps, gravity bleed another half a reservoir, done.
If the master is weak nothing will work, If the master is good and strong it's all that needs done, If you have to fight it the master is weak and needs replaced.
Yes the 370Z and early G35 sedan 07-08 master is a direct fit into the G37, just deletes the damper on the bottom of the G37 master, all the damper is is a plate with 2 rubber seals on either side to dampen "any" feel the clutch had without it.
If the master is weak nothing will work, If the master is good and strong it's all that needs done, If you have to fight it the master is weak and needs replaced.
Yes the 370Z and early G35 sedan 07-08 master is a direct fit into the G37, just deletes the damper on the bottom of the G37 master, all the damper is is a plate with 2 rubber seals on either side to dampen "any" feel the clutch had without it.