I noticed there was no DIY for the 2011 oil change so I decided to take the time and do it.
Hope this helps first timers.

I used WIX 51365 and Mobile1 Full Synthetic 5w-30, when it gets warmer I might switch to 10w-30/40


First use emergency jack from trunk to lift car so the metal fin at that point doesn't bend like with a traditional jack.
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/8...1101231051.jpg


Next use hydraulic jack to lift the front central jack point.
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/3...1101231051.jpg

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/444...1101231051.jpg


Now remove the emergency jack and use 2 safety jack stands, one on each front notch. This will not bend the metal the stress is distributed evenly.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2...1101231100.jpg

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/682...1101231059.jpg


Remove the hydraulic jack and get under the car with a
10mm Socket
4 screws hold the back of the engine splash guard, unscrew and fold the guard toward the front of the car exposing the oil pan and filter.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4...1101231103.jpg

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/7...1101231105.jpg


The oil pan drain plug bolt is 14mm socket. Remember right tight, left loose.
The OEM filter was on tight enough for me to have to use a tool to remove it. I used a Lexus IS oil filter tool and a socket wrench to unscrew it. Any device will work, like pliers.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7...1101231116.jpg


Put your new filter on, but remember to oil the rubber seal to ensure a good seal. I pour a little oil in the new filter and let the pleats soak it up.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1...1101231125.jpg


When oil is drained screw the drain plug bolt back in and screw the engine splash guard back in with the 4 screws.
Jack the center point back up and remove the jack stands and lower slightly enough to get the emergency jack from the trunk back in place.
Then, remove the central hydraulic jack and lower the car the rest of the way with the emergency jack.
Fill oil to full line, start engine for 30 seconds, kill the engine and check dip stick.
Notice the line has dropped, add oil till almost at full line. You want the oil pan to be at full when the engine is running, this method aids this.

 

Nice, but two things to add:

The jacks should be placed under the frame rails, not the body.
A new copper crush washer should be used on the oil pan drain plug, they are under $1 at the dealer. When replacing the crush washer, the side with the notch goes towards the bolt head.

 

I personally have never purchased a new crush washer for the past 4 cars I have driven. 1 car I didn't even use the washer.

Either I'm cheap or too lazy to get one, but I have never had an oil leak from the drain plug bolt.
Just fill up with oil and check for leaks after the engine temp rises.

 

That may be you personally, but why do you have to counter a constructive suggestion.
What if that drain plug leaks after the engine temp rises, you now need to replace the crush washer, cheap insurance for under a dollar.

I hope no one actually takes your comment seriously, leaves out the crush washer, and blows a motor.

Ive never been hit by a bus, does that mean it will never happen??

 

blow a motor from a oil leak? you would have to be an idiot to ignore the check oil light, and double dumb for not checking oil level for a while after a change. if you blow a motor from an oil leak, you probably shouldnt be touching a car

 

Alright now children, settle down... I've also re-used crush washers most of the time, but by the argument people reading this will be aware and draw there own conclusion.

Anyway, nice right up for newbies, however I don't understand the point in using the emergency jack? It was a useless step..

 

Regular jacks can bend the thin "lip" where the jack point is on many cars. Some people (me) use a hockey puck with a groove cut into it to save the trouble of taking out the oem jack.

 

I understand that, but he ended up using a hydraulic under the front? I'm guessing maybe clearance. If that's the case a low profile jack would help then.

 

thanks for the write up!

 

I believe the factory suggested jack points are actually at the pinch welds on the corner of the car. I believe these have more structural rigidity than the rails down the middle portion of the car.

 

Even with a low profile jack, the lever arm needs room to move up and down for the pumping action on the cylinder.

The central jack point is further under the car than the length of my jack plus some.

 

I am able to get my cheap aluminum hand jack under my car. I also purchased some Rhino ramps for oil change and changing my exhaust.

 

Getting the jack under may be harder if you have a front lip spoiler. I would just drive up a mild ramp, and then slide the jack under.

 

that's a good idea i bent my little metal fins already though i've had bad experiences with emergency jacks on my previous TL. we had a wheel off, and i ended up leaning on the car. the car tipped over the emergency jack. the front right fender warped out, but surprisingly there wasn't much damage to the actual body and zero to the front, right rotor it hit. never again will i use the emergency jack to do maintenance...

 

by the way - i see royal purple in your first image. i spend $$$ on it on my fully bolted on '05 TL. turns out i just threw money away. it's not better than mobil 1, but the price of amsoil. ugh...