Hey now, in my defense this is the internet and we can't read tone in people's post. How would I know if you were kidding around with me or not? I don't know you. I just wanted someone to tell me "use this oil and use this weight". It doesn't matter that the car has to change gears for me. It doesn't matter than you have better coordination than I do that you can drive a stick. That's awesome that you can. Until some body will drive over here and let me learn on their $45K G then it's a moot point. Might want to be careful when you say a girl is way oversenstive because you know what our hormones do! It's all good man. You think I'm bad, you should read the off topic board on breastimplants411.com. There are some REALLY bad ones there. And of course you get to see *****.

 

rose - most people use 5w30. you definitely want to break in a car with conventional oil but after that, you can go to full synthetic with no issues. since you're at 4000 miles go ahead and make the switch.

oh and i drive auto too.

 

Engine temperatures along with outside temperatures does have some impact on the oil. If you live in an extremely cold climate than you want an oil that will not break down under extremely cold temperatures and will still protect. Same as if you do aftermarket parts and you are running your engine hard.

Also, Eneos 5w-30 is not fully synthetic so don't be fooled. Go with 5w-20 or 5w-40 if you are going with Eneos.

 

learn on your own car, it's not the hardest thing in the world to pick up, and with how transmissions are built today, you run very minimal risk in screwing one up just learning on it.

 

The point is that she doesnt have a stick and didnt want to buy one because she lives in a high traffic area. I bought an AT, although I know how to drive a stick, because of the same reason. It doesnt matter anyways, because you can shift it like a stick anyways. Also, if you put it in sport mode, it will shift at the exact rpm for the most power. Not very many people can get it right driving a MT or even know what rpm they should be shifting at. It changes when you get it tuned as well.

I wish I had an MT but I know that I am much safer and can drive more aggresively in an AT.

Rosey, if you really want to learn, go test drive a stick at some domestic dealership. they dont care!

 

imo the amount of times youre stuck in traffic never outweights the regret in not buying the transmission you really wanted

 

But it's ok because I didn't want a stick so no regrets.

 

seriously, im lazy and i want to be able to put it in D for the 5% of the time im busy doing other stuff. 7at ftw maybe?

 

gaga i guess im the only one that knows whats goin on with this comment..lol...wellat least i know 4 sure..others can only imagine..haha good post

 

rosey welcome 2 myg37 and posting!!

 

I've been here a while sort of (longer than I have that other board).

 

Rosey -

If you garage your car in the winter I would say keep the recommended 5w-30. Even parked outside in the winter, 5w-30 is still OK but will just have a slightly harder start and would need a solid 2-5 minutes of warm up to get the oil warm and fluidity up to par. The manufacturer recommends 5w-30 and the world of 5w-30's have MANY MANY options to choose from so why risk Infiniti bitching at you for using a different weighted oil in terms of warranty? If by some chance you had an oil related issue such as a leak, they could try to weasel their way out of fixing it by blaming it on the weight since even the oil cap and manual says to use 5w-30. Now realistically a good oil that you research should be fine even if it's 0w-30, 0w-40. Those are the only weights I would consider outside of the recommended by the way.

The consensus overall is that switching to a fully synthetic is A-OK after break-in. Some will say that could be early as the 1200 mile mark. But most will say wait until past the 1st oil change mark, 3750, which you are past. Some seasoned folks with plenty of experience with engine lifecycle, such as Black Betty among many others insist that the VQ engine can do good to go even further with a longer conventional break-in, such as until 11250 or even 15k miles. I am personally waiting until 11250 myself just to let the metal components of the motor break in further with the conventional that it was designed to break in with.

At the 3750 mark I changed to Infiniti's OEM oil they carry at the dealership, and OEM filter. At the 7500 mark I had them perform a VVEL based TSB which got me a one-time free Infiniti recommended Ester Oil change as part of the TSB work. Contrary to what some believe, this expensive Nissan Ester Oil is not synthetic, it's just a conventional with a higher amount of ester-based additives, which apparently our motors have a fetish for and work best with. I notice a smoother idle and smoother shifting. (Sorry no 20 HP gain ).

As per Infiniti's TSB, it is safe to say ester based additives in our oil is a plus. Therefore at my next oil change, at 11250, I am changing to an ester-based synthetic, such as Motul 8100 5w-30. That way I'll have the benefits of synthetic and my motor will get the ester it works best with, and I'll have my last run with conventional for a complete break in. The way I see it, why pay Infiniti about $10/quart for conventional ester oil when I can find a real ester synthetic for a little less per quart and get a Mobil 1 filter and just pay them $25 for the labor on the oil change?

After a lot of reading and self education on what path and what is good for my motor, this is what I have come to choose doing. I hope it's of help to you. Overall you will probably be fine with any SAE rated name brand 5w-30, whether conventional, synthetic, or blend. (Just remember that ester is a good thing for our motors, but NOT a requirement. So if you are an oil fiend, I would consider using an ester-based oil). This is all just pretty much nit picking for what oil may be slightly better than the rest. I don't mind the nitpicking because I plan on owning and keeping my G for as long as it can run so I personally want to put the best stuff in it.

Another popular oil, especially in wintry states is the famous "German Castrol". You can only find it at Autozone. It's Castrol Syntec, says "European Formula" on it, and is 0w-30, if not for the year round, I would consider it as a great wintertime oil change since the 0w will run more fluid in the cold. Of course it's synthetic so I would only use it after you decide to make the permanent switch to synthetic.

 

^good post. my dealership is a pain about bringing in your own oil or it would be nice to run motul or something similar.

 

Thanks Woady! Oh and BTW congrats on the G37 (and sorry about the wrecked G35 that looked horrifying).

Yeah, luckily my dealership is A-OK with changing to any oil I bring in as long as it's SAE certified. In fact they even said the don't mind changing to a slightly different weight such as 0w-30 and even admitted it should be no problem. However they were polite enough to warn me that in the unlikely event that I had an oil related problem, that they or another dealership do have the right to pin it on using a weight outside of recommendation. I felt that the advantages of another weight were not substantial enough to use them so I will stick with a 5w-30. Motul 8100 X-Cess looks good, especially being ester-based. When I approach my 11250 mark I will be ordering some. If I was not insisting on 5w-30 I would go for the German Castrol. Oil Analysis results from Blackstone has shown the German Castrol to perform as a top dog.

German Castrol:






P.S. Why are you guys giving this girl trouble for what transmission she chose? There's no manliness in question from choosing a transmission, you just pick whichever fits your lifestyle better.

 

ya i know about the german castrol - good stuff. i use mobil 1 syn just cause its easy and my dealership can get it. i used to bring in my own til about a year ago but oh well. i know there are some bad reviews about mobil 1 but its never given me any problems.