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I was under the impressing that "fluid-filled" bushings (like the diff and engine mounts) weren't a container per se, but were infused with oil
Think of the diff bushing in terms of the "Rolo" caramel-filled candy:
The bushing has a outer rubber "shell" with a silicone-filled center (moreso a "donut" to accommodate the hole in the center).
Just another of those crappy Nissan parts' designs.
@SuperDave57 If you don't mind me asking, how did you get all of the oil out of the old bushing?
I cut a slit in it, down toward bottom so remaining oil would drain out. I figured since I was going to fill the void with epoxy anyway, it wouldn't hurt to cut the bushing some to get that oil out. And it's worked so far. Now I have an issue with power steering fluid seeping from cap and the darn sticky/cracking dash just started! Really annoys me as I bought my 2010 new and it has spent most of its life sitting in my garage, only 67,000 miles but now all these unfixable (or pretty costly to fix) issues coming out of nowhere. Good luck!
I cut a slit in it, down toward bottom so remaining oil would drain out. I figured since I was going to fill the void with epoxy anyway, it wouldn't hurt to cut the bushing some to get that oil out. And it's worked so far. Now I have an issue with power steering fluid seeping from cap and the darn sticky/cracking dash just started! Really annoys me as I bought my 2010 new and it has spent most of its life sitting in my garage, only 67,000 miles but now all these unfixable (or pretty costly to fix) issues coming out of nowhere. Good luck!
Mine has 70K miles and the bushing has not cracked yet, so I expect this to happen any week now. When I first saw @MotorvateDIY fill it with sealant, I wondered then how the epoxy would bind if there was any oil remaining.
@ILM-NC G37S low the Rolo analogy. I suspect they filled it with fluid to reduce NVH because the first gen G was always criticized for being so harsh, but long term that was a poor choice and solid rubber would have been a better choice.
Solid poly main diff mount bushing, transmission mount bushing, and engine mount bushings... these make the car tight and responsive, and reduces the handling impact of tossing the drivetrain around.
At least, that's what I've always said to myself. There's always a trade-off, rumble rumble.
Solid poly main diff mount bushing, transmission mount bushing, and engine mount bushings... these make the car tight and responsive, and reduces the handling impact of tossing the drivetrain around.
I know that the diff mount requires quite a bit of labor ($800-1000 worth), but what did the transmission and engine mounts cost to have installed? Or did you DIY?
I know that the diff mount requires quite a bit of labor ($800-1000 worth), but what did the transmission and engine mounts cost to have installed? Or did you DIY?
More vibration correct? Tolerable?
Cost as shop hours on the lift... transmission mount was easy at one hour of honest labor, so my advice is to expect two hours. Motor mounts were charged at four hours, while estimated between 4 and 8.
Transmission mount is crazy NVH, and I often think about going back to OEM, even though years later it's normal to me. Poly motor mounts are a very reasonable mod to live with.
I was always under the assumption that poly (greater durometer than rubber it replaces) or harder bushings and mounts would put more strain / unnecessary "wear" on the related or connected components. Not sure how some can tolerate the NVH increase, I understand the performance benefits but I would not last long LOL.
When I had the OEM axle back put on my Q50 by the dealer, I had to take it off after 5 days as the noise and drone alone drove me nuts.
Automotive values are personal. No judgement either way. Truth is there are times when I wish my car was soft again. And if I had to rely on it as a daily driver things might be different. At the very least I'd ditch the Z1 transmission mount.
Automotive values are personal. No judgement either way. Truth is there are times when I wish my car was soft again. And if I had to rely on it as a daily driver things might be different. At the very least I'd ditch the Z1 transmission mount.
Yep!
As for the Z1 mount are you using their poly or is it the solid? I know on their rear diff bushing they claim the durometer of the poly is 88 and they quote it being on the softer side then competitors.
It's polyurethane. I can only imagine how ridiculous a solid aluminum mount would be like. Pointless for a street car, IMO, but obviously people draw the line in different places.
Has anyone on the forum ever installed solid aluminum transmission and engine mounts?
I got the solid engine mount and it was an instant regret. I took it back to get it switched back to OEM. It sounded like that car was constantly grinding something and it was not pleasant at all!
Does the polyurethane diff bushing make much of a difference wrt to NVH? Seems that this application is far from the driver, so it would be hard to sense any change. Motor and transmission are closer to where the driver sits, so I expect these are a little less tolerable.
Does the polyurethane diff bushing make much of a difference wrt to NVH? Seems that this application is far from the driver, so it would be hard to sense any change. Motor and transmission are closer to where the driver sits, so I expect these are a little less tolerable.
Pretty sure the consensus on the main rear diff bushing is that NVH is negligible with that mod. I also have a diff brace, and still the NVH from back there feels minor.
It seems the Z1 diff brace seems to be the best well made one from the pictures. Though when I got mine, it was warped on one end.... which I don't think is intentional. Granted it was when it first came out.
I know a lot like the Bell one. Apparently the brace does not add any or much NVH so I was interesting in it, until my unit showed up as such.
Last edited by Krzysztof47; Aug 6, 2023 at 09:28 PM.
There's always a trade-off, rumble rumble.
