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Just got my car back from the dealership ( I know dumb idea ), I had them fix a water leak, my engine smoking (supposedly caused by a heater core hose exploding), and the removal of my aftermarket remote starter. which I thought was causing my battery to die, turns out I just needed to get it replaced.
Long story short, I just picked it up, after all the work was finished, and the tech showed me this long list of error codes, no idea what all this is about. I’m going crazy thinking I’m gonna have to fork out a crap ton of money. Not to mention my damn service engine soon light is still on. Possibly being caused from the dead battery? Or something???idk the tech wasn’t helpful.
Our forum team of ASE (Armchair Service Excellence) certified pros will need some clues in order to provide you a direction to go in and things to look for:
Year, Sedan/Coupe/Vert, AWD/RWD, trim packages, mileage, any mods it came with and those you added, the list of codes in question, any odd behavior such as rough idle, limp-mode, unusual shifting, etc., how long you have owned it and any prior issues or work that you know of being done.
Our forum team of ASE (Armchair Service Excellence) certified pros will need some clues in order to provide you a direction to go in and things to look for:
Year, Sedan/Coupe/Vert, AWD/RWD, trim packages, mileage, any mods it came with and those you added, the list of codes in question, any odd behavior such as rough idle, limp-mode, unusual shifting, etc., how long you have owned it and any prior issues or work that you know of being done.
Thanks and looking forward to the update!
year is 2012, G37X Sedan, sport appearance edition, AWD, 127k miles, the mods it came with, that I know of are the compustar remote starter, which I removed. A 16” Phoenix style Tesla screen. Which is pretty wonky, and a k&n intake.
I haven’t added anything myself. Just working out all the issues. It had a water leak on the passenger side too which I fixed, it was right near the BCM.
I’m just confused because my check engine light came on after I noticed my engine bay was smoking, they replaced the coolant hose, removed my remote starter, fixed the water leak.
the light is still on though.
It seems like it drives fine too. I posted all of the codes that are current. I’m going crazy trying to figure out what could be wrong.
As someone recommended in your Reddit post, clear all the codes from all the modules and see what comes back.
The cheapest way to do this is a wireless ELM327, OBDFusion app and their $15 enhanced diagnostic add on -OR- pay a shop to do this.
Since a lot of the active codes are BCM and communication related, I suspect the remote starter removal may of left some open connections.
Our forum team of ASE (Armchair Service Excellence) certified pros will need some clues in order to provide you a direction to go in and things to look for:
Year, Sedan/Coupe/Vert, AWD/RWD, trim packages, mileage, any mods it came with and those you added, the list of codes in question, any odd behavior such as rough idle, limp-mode, unusual shifting, etc., how long you have owned it and any prior issues or work that you know of being done.
Thanks and looking forward to the update!
Its funny because the people on forums can sometimes offer better input than some of these shops with "ASE" technicians. I remember seeing a comment that ASE just stands for, Ask Someone Else, and I agree with that! Sorry if this a little off topic.
Our forum team of ASE (Armchair Service Excellence) certified pros will need some clues in order to provide you a direction to go in and things to look for:
Year, Sedan/Coupe/Vert, AWD/RWD, trim packages, mileage, any mods it came with and those you added, the list of codes in question, any odd behavior such as rough idle, limp-mode, unusual shifting, etc., how long you have owned it and any prior issues or work that you know of being done.
Thanks and looking forward to the update!
Originally Posted by SonicVQ
As someone recommended in your Reddit post, clear all the codes from all the modules and see what comes back.
The cheapest way to do this is a wireless ELM327, OBDFusion app and their $15 enhanced diagnostic add on -OR- pay a shop to do this.
Since a lot of the active codes are BCM and communication related, I suspect the remote starter removal may of left some open connections.
Update: I was driving today, randomly car went into limp mode, no clue what could have caused it. Turned the car off, turned it back on, issue fixed.
I then replaced the battery, bought an OBD2 scanner, cleared all current codes. Drove about 100 miles, and now there are 0 DTC codes, check engine light remains off. Could the issues be fixed?
how long until the DTC codes should pop back up, if there are any?
Its funny because the people on forums can sometimes offer better input than some of these shops with "ASE" technicians. I remember seeing a comment that ASE just stands for, Ask Someone Else, and I agree with that! Sorry if this a little off topic.
Absolutley agree. This forum has been very helpful over the years. Keep uo the good work!
