My FOB's don't work, the button on the door handles don't work, and I can't open the trunk with the button. I have changed the batteries in the FOB's and it did not help. I've been driving the car by inserting the FOB into the dash and use the manual key to unlock the car. I read somewher that it is probably the module behind the glove compartment. I imagine this is a pricey item at the dealer. Has anyone changed this module themselves with an aftermarket part? Is it plug and play?

 

Don't know the answer to your question but I can tell you from personal experience not to get lithium batteries from the dollar store. I tried being cheap and those things didn't even last 2 days on 2 separate occasions.

 

Actually, the BCM is not terribly expensive from someplace like this:
https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/oe...ol_module.html
But a few questions first... Did the fob's buttons and the door request buttons work before? Did the BCM get wet?
If you decide that you do indeed need a new BCM, just be sure the part number is an exact match. Then you will need to program it to communicate with your fobs. That might be most easily done by a dealer, or a clever locksmith, or some shop with the Consult III.

 

Yes everything used to work. No, nothing got wet. I read that you should first try to clean the contacts.

 

1) Did you physically check for potential water in/near the passenger side footwell?
2) Have you checked any fuses?
3) Any warnings/lights on the cluster?
4) Does everything else on the car work normally (windows, locks, lights (interior/exterior, turn signals/reverse), sunroof, etc.

Assuming all of the above are good, and before going through the hassle of replacing the BCM, I would first contact a reputable locksmith and see if the keys may need to be resynced to the car. If this fails, then you can look into replacing the BCM.

 

Would the car even start, even when stuck into the slots, if the keys needed to be resynced?

 

The way I understand NATS/IVIS, yes. When you insert the fob into the key slot, the antenna inside the slot reads the code from the physical chip inside the fob and, if all is good, the car starts. That is how the OP is still able to drive the car with, essentially, a dead fob.

Remember, there are two (2) different ID's in play: NATS/IVIS (the physical chip inside the fob) which performs engine start operations and the iKey ID (RFID code) which handles the wireless functions (lock/unlock/keyless go/express windows/etc.) of the fob.

It is rare for the wireless functions of both fobs to be out of sync with the BCM at the same time which is why I suspect something else is going on here.