2011 Sedan Brake Issues
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Joined: Aug 2020
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
What you maybe experiencing is fade from the combination of the cheap slotted + ceramic pads. Ceramic pads are sold with the "no more brake dust" backing behind them and has people under the impression that performance is the same and it is not.
Ceramic pads just dont brake as good as "metallics" and at this point is basics. Metal will stop better than ceramic. Metal does create quite a bit of dust and is the reason most go for them, it introduces longer stopping times in exchange for less dust.
One of the reasons why your new rotors maybe pulsating so quickly could be due to that hard caliper. It maybe old and rusty inside causing it not to let go when it needs to staying engaged more over heating over time warping the rotor.
Beware Used is not the same as Remanufactured. Remanufactured calipers are old units that have been rebuilt basically being 90% new. Used is an OEM unit that is still using oem 10 yr components
Buying a used caliper when you dont know if the calipers are your problem can be money down the drain. Now that you have those "newer" brakes re check your calipers and gauge the piston movement. If this is in fact the case you should see the pads lower on that side also.
Ceramic pads just dont brake as good as "metallics" and at this point is basics. Metal will stop better than ceramic. Metal does create quite a bit of dust and is the reason most go for them, it introduces longer stopping times in exchange for less dust.
One of the reasons why your new rotors maybe pulsating so quickly could be due to that hard caliper. It maybe old and rusty inside causing it not to let go when it needs to staying engaged more over heating over time warping the rotor.
Beware Used is not the same as Remanufactured. Remanufactured calipers are old units that have been rebuilt basically being 90% new. Used is an OEM unit that is still using oem 10 yr components
Buying a used caliper when you dont know if the calipers are your problem can be money down the drain. Now that you have those "newer" brakes re check your calipers and gauge the piston movement. If this is in fact the case you should see the pads lower on that side also.
And I'm pretty sure the rotors aren't warped. The wheel still moves freely, so it's not clamped down very hard yet. It must be just grazing the rotor and creating an uneven buildup. When I did about 3 agressive stops from 50-60, the pulsing went away for a bit until it came back a little later. Some may argue that this further proves that the rotor is warped but in my experience, a warped rotor only gets worse when it's warmed up from a hard stop. Here it went away.
I'm not a professional by any means, but that's my diagnosis.
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Joined: Sep 2020
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From: Illinois - WAY downtown, jerky
You're going to find it really difficult to warp a rotor with brake heat.
You'd need to get the entire mass of the rotor up to something like...1500-2500F?
The rotor is like 25LB? How much energy does it take to cook that much iron to its softening temp? And imagine what the rest of the braking system would look like after that happened even once. Everything would be charred to a crisp.
Its virtually impossible. Imagine how long you'd need to heat the rotor for to do that. Your pads will stop making friction long before that.
If you warped a rotor via mechanical means (uneven torque on the wheels, bent hub, etc) then...maybe.
You'd need to get the entire mass of the rotor up to something like...1500-2500F?
The rotor is like 25LB? How much energy does it take to cook that much iron to its softening temp? And imagine what the rest of the braking system would look like after that happened even once. Everything would be charred to a crisp.
Its virtually impossible. Imagine how long you'd need to heat the rotor for to do that. Your pads will stop making friction long before that.
If you warped a rotor via mechanical means (uneven torque on the wheels, bent hub, etc) then...maybe.
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Joined: Jun 2019
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From: South Florida
I'm pretty sure the OEM rubber lines are the problem. I had the inner lining split on me when I had my coupe and it was locking the caliper onto the rotor and I think that's what's happening now with my sedan, it's just not that bad yet.
I've done some research and I think I'll be able to salvage my pads and rotors, and I'm just going to go one by one starting with the hoses. If it comes back, then I'll replace the calipers. At that point, I'll see if the Akebonos are available. From what I've seen they're scarce and expensive lol even the used/remanufactured ones. I would agree that the solid build of the sport brakes would make them a little easier to maintain since the only moving parts are the pistons.
I've done some research and I think I'll be able to salvage my pads and rotors, and I'm just going to go one by one starting with the hoses. If it comes back, then I'll replace the calipers. At that point, I'll see if the Akebonos are available. From what I've seen they're scarce and expensive lol even the used/remanufactured ones. I would agree that the solid build of the sport brakes would make them a little easier to maintain since the only moving parts are the pistons.
Sport brakes are essentially an investment that will pay for itself. Just make sure you get the color right on the first try.
Lines are a good way to start and determine if that diagnosis is correct, though split liners has never happened to me I guess it would not hurt to try this.
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landslide03
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Aug 31, 2014 10:14 AM
