G37 Sedan

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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 03:39 PM
  #76  
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OldG2NewG
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Originally Posted by PNW_IPL
I removed the cards completely to get a better look.
theres a special sem soap and prep. Theres also tack cloths. The painting is similar to spray paint. This stuff really binds well. However I wouldnt use it on seats. Some do but I cant see how it could possibly last forever.
Do the cards remove with bolts or screws? Would like to try this
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 04:58 PM
  #77  
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Eh quarantine. Changed my oil today, Cleaning.. soon going to do paint correction/ compound/polish. Going to install the z1 aluminum undershroud and the rear differential support brace i bought. Also grabbed 10 wheel studs I'd like to replace on my rears. They have been a bit crunchy feeling since i bought the car ( i guess someone before me had tried to put the wrong lugs on car, who knows.. but ill fix that soon)
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #78  
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Oh yea and new shifter cause my old one had been showing its wear...

Feels really nice when shifting. I'm digging it.

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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 05:17 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by TheDevilsG
Oh yea and new shifter cause my old one had been showing its wear...

Feels really nice when shifting. I'm digging it.
I like that! The angular design and that blue disc in a sea of black trim and matte silver. That's pretty sharp.
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 05:23 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
I like that! The angular design and that blue disc in a sea of black trim and matte silver. That's pretty sharp.
Thanks! It feels really nice on the shifts too, you can feel the engagement more as you push it into gears. Highly recommend it. Its the greddy diamond if you decide to give it a go.
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 05:37 PM
  #81  
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It looks like the center cap is removable. If that piece could be had in something other than blue (because stone leather)... gold perhaps, and no logo.

I don't see a boot ring in this pic. What are you using?

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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 08:38 PM
  #82  
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this video shows installation method, I just followed it.
I set it to sit nice and tight to the boot and it sits perfect. You can adjust how high or low it sits ( shows how near vid end) .Boot stays where it should on mine, didn't have to change anything. Its solid. I set mine as low as it goes. The shifter sits right on top of the boot end. Having zero issues with it, Had it on for over a month now.

and yup the greddy button has an o ring and you just pop it in at the end and its very secure. I thought about painting mine gunmetal but the blue grew on me and i like it a lot now so I'm leaving it blue.

Literally ditch old shifter, follow that vid and its secure as hell. Comes with other thread inserts for other manufacturers too. Its a great kit.
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 08:45 PM
  #83  
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Oh also my buddy that has a 370z and bought same shifter. He has an a lil black adapter nub from z1 that he bought for his other shifter and just installed this **** on top of it. His has a little piece between the shifter and the boot but sits a tad taller than mine because of it. Looks good too if you go that route but i love how mine sits so low personally.

If you'd like i can take a picture of his next time i see him, So you can decide if you prefer that?

i was thinking of buying one of these small ones later on ( his is about 4 times the height of these)

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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 08:47 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by OldG2NewG
Do the cards remove with bolts or screws? Would like to try this
​both screws and bolts.
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 08:50 PM
  #85  
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I've been using a custom titanium **** now for a few years... teardrop design with a milled satin finish. It's really kind of perfect. Here, old pic:



But every now and then I take a deep dive into buying another ****, to switch things up. This Greddy **** is nice, worth taking note of. It has a very clever design integrating height adjustment and position lock.

Last edited by Rochester; Apr 6, 2020 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 08:52 PM
  #86  
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Ah gotcha. Nah save your money, sounds like you have a nice one already lol Try the greddy on your next project car
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 09:28 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
That's funny, that is where I was going to get my airbag cover. Is there a trick to removing the oem cover or is it just a matter of disconnecting the battery so the airbag does not fire and pull until it comes loose?.
I removed the negative terminal on the battery. Took the screws out from the side of the steering wheel (Torx 30 Security). Once those screws are out, the whole airbag assembly slides out. Remove the orange and yellow airbag wires. Be careful with the black tabs, I broke part of them but nothing too serious. The cover has a few tabs around the airbag which are easy to pop off and thats it! JDM YO!
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 09:36 PM
  #88  
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From: SWPA
Originally Posted by stealthee
Today I took the door panel off the 3000 to try to adjust the window triangle so that the window itself can go up higher. While in there I started diagnosis on why the courtesy light on the door won't light. After back tracing I ended up taking the fender off so I can get to the body harness where it plugs into the door.

I ran out of light before I got any further but hopefully I'll get it sorted tomorrow, even if I have to run a new wire, then things back together.
Quoting myself to keep everyone straight.

So after I made a Harbor Freight trip, and mowed the grass I dug back into the 3000. I got more and more frustrated and befuddled on why the light wouldn't work. I started to second guess my wiring, because I had to wire in a new harness going to the door.

I ended up dissecting the interior (removed drivers seat, sill plate, dead pedal, hatch and gas door release, and pulled the carpet back. Then I pulled the body harness tray and started to pick the wire out, because I was going to either find a break, or just run a new wire. Long story short I found a "break" on accident. Upon pulling the wire back through the harness in the door jamb area the wire broke. Inside the insulation there was no copper. I trimmed back about 4 inches until I found copper strand. I depinned an extra harness I had and soldered in a new wire and it works as it should now.

Super frustrating to disassemble the interior as far as I did to only have the break be right out in the open...
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 10:51 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Peepz
I removed the negative terminal on the battery. Took the screws out from the side of the steering wheel (Torx 30 Security). Once those screws are out, the whole airbag assembly slides out. Remove the orange and yellow airbag wires. Be careful with the black tabs, I broke part of them but nothing too serious. The cover has a few tabs around the airbag which are easy to pop off and thats it! JDM YO!
Thanks! I would have yanked on that airbag cover until something broke before realizing the Torx screws on the side of the steering wheel.
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Old Apr 8, 2020 | 09:49 AM
  #90  
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Started by having the silver trim painted gloss black (ignore the bags and packages). Then I wrapped my steering wheel in full alcantara and installed my alcantara shift boot. Then I cleaned, stripped, and painted the timing covers on the front of the engine to get rid of that nasty looking aluminum oxidation that these engines get. Then I replaced all the bolts on the timing covers and engine with fresh new stainless 10mm bolts, and painted my plastic engine cover. Also added some white LEDs to my start button and added a red LED behind it so that it glows at night. Also did a rear diff fluid change.




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