100k miles maintennce/upgrades suggestions
03-06-2018, 11:43 AM
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
100k miles maintennce/upgrades suggestions
Hey guys-
Got a few questions regarding my 2011 sport 7at sedan- about to pay-off and almost went with a q50 cpo sport, but no payments ruled the senses and the car has really been problem free and i can honestly say that i really like driving the car , so decided to keep. Now at 102k and thinking maybe a good time to change out some components and keep for another 60k-100k, so using this point as cars half- life and want to get good ROI on new parts
. My questions are and, as its a DD, didn't want to do anything major from oem so:
Brakes(warping 2x and resurfaced)- i like the oem pads, but rotors not so much, so going with aftermarket and hearing Centric prem rotors and Hawk pads 5.0 are a good set up- anyone do different with good results?- what about OEM pads and centric rotors- good combo?
Suspension- thinking on changing out current , car doesnt feel quite as tight as when new and maybe new shocks and struts etc are in order : should I stick with OEM, as the ride is a good combo of sporty but sufficiently lux etc. so looking for any good solutions...as for springs, have always like the lowered look, but just didnt want to worry about camber/toe etc, so staying stock and at most a less than 1" drop upfront and 3/4" in back(saw a post that deals with that re: tanabe springs, so may...go that route..)
changing sway bars(hotchkis) i hear , will improve it even better thatn current sport sways- correct?
changing out plugs at 105k- car runs fine, no issues, but if at half life, guees now is a good time(also have a small leak on valve cover) so as thats being changed, pulling plugs- Going with NGK's
fluids- drain and fill diff and tranny(changed out at 60k with oem fluids) any reason to use something different at this point..?
Oil- thought about going with a high mileage type oil(been using dyno) to help out with breakdown, but so far dyno 5w-30 Mobil-1 has worked, so may just stick with it , but open to any recommendations in high mileage...
Thanks for any input and suggestions ...
Got a few questions regarding my 2011 sport 7at sedan- about to pay-off and almost went with a q50 cpo sport, but no payments ruled the senses and the car has really been problem free and i can honestly say that i really like driving the car , so decided to keep. Now at 102k and thinking maybe a good time to change out some components and keep for another 60k-100k, so using this point as cars half- life and want to get good ROI on new parts
. My questions are and, as its a DD, didn't want to do anything major from oem so:Brakes(warping 2x and resurfaced)- i like the oem pads, but rotors not so much, so going with aftermarket and hearing Centric prem rotors and Hawk pads 5.0 are a good set up- anyone do different with good results?- what about OEM pads and centric rotors- good combo?
Suspension- thinking on changing out current , car doesnt feel quite as tight as when new and maybe new shocks and struts etc are in order : should I stick with OEM, as the ride is a good combo of sporty but sufficiently lux etc. so looking for any good solutions...as for springs, have always like the lowered look, but just didnt want to worry about camber/toe etc, so staying stock and at most a less than 1" drop upfront and 3/4" in back(saw a post that deals with that re: tanabe springs, so may...go that route..)
changing sway bars(hotchkis) i hear , will improve it even better thatn current sport sways- correct?
changing out plugs at 105k- car runs fine, no issues, but if at half life, guees now is a good time(also have a small leak on valve cover) so as thats being changed, pulling plugs- Going with NGK's
fluids- drain and fill diff and tranny(changed out at 60k with oem fluids) any reason to use something different at this point..?
Oil- thought about going with a high mileage type oil(been using dyno) to help out with breakdown, but so far dyno 5w-30 Mobil-1 has worked, so may just stick with it , but open to any recommendations in high mileage...
Thanks for any input and suggestions ...
03-06-2018, 01:05 PM
#2
Your list looks good, maybe check on the balljoints up front and bushings on the rear subframe and elsewhere too along with changing hoses and clamps (easy to do when you refresh coolant).
Depending on if you're around a lot of potholes and severe climates they may be on their way out...and the rear differential bushings just generally tend to need replacement anyways so thats also something to look for
Depending on if you're around a lot of potholes and severe climates they may be on their way out...and the rear differential bushings just generally tend to need replacement anyways so thats also something to look for
03-06-2018, 10:33 PM
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Hashim- yes, thats on my list once i figure out the suspension i plan to have those looked at...any symptoms on either the ball joints/bushings or rear diff? i have a vibration at times at hwy speeds 75+ that comes and goes on same stretch of hwy, so maybe one of those is culprit...
03-06-2018, 10:57 PM
#4
Might consider Koni shocks, you can reuse your stock springs if you want a softer ride (vs. any lowering spring). Centric Premium rotors and either the Akebono ProAct or Hawk 5.0 wo0uld be good options, Stoptech Sport Pads are good too, but will likely dust up more than the other two.
Your other plans sound fine as well, I'd do a full brake fluid flush w/ Synthetic Dot 3-4 fluid when you change out the rotors/pads. A new serpentine drive belt would be good to do at this point if you've never done it. I have 95k on my original belt and the notches still line up in spec on the idler pulley, but will change it soon.
How often have you done your oil changes? If you want to go 6k between changes go synthetic, but 3500-4k intervals dyno is fine. I've had good UOAs w/ Pennz Platinum 5-30, but quality synthetics are so well engineered at this point that it's hard to go wrong w/ the major brands available.
Your other plans sound fine as well, I'd do a full brake fluid flush w/ Synthetic Dot 3-4 fluid when you change out the rotors/pads. A new serpentine drive belt would be good to do at this point if you've never done it. I have 95k on my original belt and the notches still line up in spec on the idler pulley, but will change it soon.
How often have you done your oil changes? If you want to go 6k between changes go synthetic, but 3500-4k intervals dyno is fine. I've had good UOAs w/ Pennz Platinum 5-30, but quality synthetics are so well engineered at this point that it's hard to go wrong w/ the major brands available.
The following users liked this post:
G37sPhoton (03-07-2018)
03-07-2018, 08:34 AM
#5
Thanks Hashim- yes, thats on my list once i figure out the suspension i plan to have those looked at...any symptoms on either the ball joints/bushings or rear diff? i have a vibration at times at hwy speeds 75+ that comes and goes on same stretch of hwy, so maybe one of those is culprit...
to check the ball joints, Jack the car up and put your hands on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the front tires and try pushing in and out on each side..if there's play or clicking noise the ball joints are probably bad...on these cars you have to change the whole control arm (upper or lower) (not as bad as it sounds and parts aren't very expensive) if the ball joint is bad
while the car is up on the jack, hands on the 9 and 3 o'clock position on the front tires try the same thing (Pushing in and out on the tires)....if there's play, the tie rod may be bad or it may be a bearing...
also try listening to the car while turning right or left while driving, if there's a grumbling noise when going in a particular direction its likely the bearings on the at side... good new is wheel bearings on these cars come in a one piece hub and are easy to change...
the rear diff bushing, look at the rear sub frame from behind if it looks like something black has leaked and dried up the bushing is gone...there are extensive threads on here on replacing it in the DIY section (the dealer says you have to replace the whole subframe...(surprise you don't lol), smaller shops can replace the bushing)
The following 2 users liked this post by Baadnewsburr:
blnewt (03-07-2018),
G37sPhoton (03-07-2018)
03-07-2018, 08:58 PM
#6
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Might consider Koni shocks, you can reuse your stock springs if you want a softer ride (vs. any lowering spring). Centric Premium rotors and either the Akebono ProAct or Hawk 5.0 wo0uld be good options, Stoptech Sport Pads are good too, but will likely dust up more than the other two.
Your other plans sound fine as well, I'd do a full brake fluid flush w/ Synthetic Dot 3-4 fluid when you change out the rotors/pads. A new serpentine drive belt would be good to do at this point if you've never done it. I have 95k on my original belt and the notches still line up in spec on the idler pulley, but will change it soon.
How often have you done your oil changes? If you want to go 6k between changes go synthetic, but 3500-4k intervals dyno is fine. I've had good UOAs w/ Pennz Platinum 5-30, but quality synthetics are so well engineered at this point that it's hard to go wrong w/ the major brands available.
Your other plans sound fine as well, I'd do a full brake fluid flush w/ Synthetic Dot 3-4 fluid when you change out the rotors/pads. A new serpentine drive belt would be good to do at this point if you've never done it. I have 95k on my original belt and the notches still line up in spec on the idler pulley, but will change it soon.
How often have you done your oil changes? If you want to go 6k between changes go synthetic, but 3500-4k intervals dyno is fine. I've had good UOAs w/ Pennz Platinum 5-30, but quality synthetics are so well engineered at this point that it's hard to go wrong w/ the major brands available.
As for Oil- been doing dyno every 3-4k but have always meant to switch to synthetic after 55k, but always got a coupon from dealer right about that time oil was due and just went with it- one of my concerns was changing to synthetic at this mileage, as have read that sometimes it can cause problems with leaks that dyno oil masked or something to that effect etc, guessing its the viscosity etc, so not sure how true but read those things and ....anyway here in FL, synthetic would be good protection during our hot summers, so contemplating so will try to decide prior to next oil change and and yes Penzoil is a good one, and have read quiter vvl noise, so may go that route and full synth...will see- thanks again for suggestions and input
as I am hoping to make the right ones for another long haul
03-07-2018, 09:04 PM
#7
Registered Member
Thread Starter
when one of my front upper ball joints went I had similar symptioms, but honestly its such a general thing to have a vibration on a specific stretch of road it could be many things....
to check the ball joints, Jack the car up and put your hands on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the front tires and try pushing in and out on each side..if there's play or clicking noise the ball joints are probably bad...on these cars you have to change the whole control arm (upper or lower) (not as bad as it sounds and parts aren't very expensive) if the ball joint is bad
while the car is up on the jack, hands on the 9 and 3 o'clock position on the front tires try the same thing (Pushing in and out on the tires)....if there's play, the tie rod may be bad or it may be a bearing...
also try listening to the car while turning right or left while driving, if there's a grumbling noise when going in a particular direction its likely the bearings on the at side... good new is wheel bearings on these cars come in a one piece hub and are easy to change...
the rear diff bushing, look at the rear sub frame from behind if it looks like something black has leaked and dried up the bushing is gone...there are extensive threads on here on replacing it in the DIY section (the dealer says you have to replace the whole subframe...(surprise you don't lol), smaller shops can replace the bushing)
to check the ball joints, Jack the car up and put your hands on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the front tires and try pushing in and out on each side..if there's play or clicking noise the ball joints are probably bad...on these cars you have to change the whole control arm (upper or lower) (not as bad as it sounds and parts aren't very expensive) if the ball joint is bad
while the car is up on the jack, hands on the 9 and 3 o'clock position on the front tires try the same thing (Pushing in and out on the tires)....if there's play, the tie rod may be bad or it may be a bearing...
also try listening to the car while turning right or left while driving, if there's a grumbling noise when going in a particular direction its likely the bearings on the at side... good new is wheel bearings on these cars come in a one piece hub and are easy to change...
the rear diff bushing, look at the rear sub frame from behind if it looks like something black has leaked and dried up the bushing is gone...there are extensive threads on here on replacing it in the DIY section (the dealer says you have to replace the whole subframe...(surprise you don't lol), smaller shops can replace the bushing)
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03-08-2018, 06:03 AM
#8
perfect on confirming that process, as i had read it somewhere but wasn't sure, so will do this on weekend and see what shakes up. Also the rear diff, i checked tonight and all looks good, but read that some members went ahead and changed out anyway to whiteline bushing, so not sure if the benefit to cost is worth it do now or just wait it out and see... but thanks again Hashim, appreciate the info ....you're not in fl are you? lol...sounds like you tinker with your car, but these things may be out of my level of do-ability...car will probably shake worse after I'm done, either way, thanks man, much appreciated
03-08-2018, 09:38 AM
#9
Registered Member
Thread Starter
lol, yeah saw that, we are freezing at 50-54 and sunny...our version of winter...
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