This past Summer, I began experiencing intermittent starting every week or two. It's difficult to be precise, because every time it happened there was that WTF moment of self doubt, wondering if I pressed the ignition button too quickly, and should have held it down just a little longer. As the months carried on, it felt like the problem was occurring with more frequency. And now it's occurring more than half the time I try to start the car. It's starting to be normal now to expect the problem to happen rather than otherwise.

By intermittent, I mean that after I press the ignition button, absolutely nothing happens. Nada. So I press it again, and it might start the car, or it might instead go into pre-ignition mode, where all the lights, locks, radio, phone, etc. are available without the car running. After which, if you press the button again, it turns everything off, back to the beginning. It will likely start after that by pressing the ignition a third time, although sometimes the whole dance just starts over. Kind of scary when that happens, and the car isn't home in the garage.

I thought maybe the key fob batteries were weak, so I replaced them. That didn't really affect the problem.

I thought maybe I should use the key fob caddy, and while that's interesting, that didn't matter either... except to start a new habit. I kind of like using the caddy now. Go figure.

When it starts, it doesn't start with any difficulty, or strain to start the car. Seems to sound and feel totally normal, which makes me less inclined to blame the starter motor.

I wonder if I should replace my battery? It is the original after-all, on a 2011 car. For that matter, I wonder if I'm not charging the battery adequately, since often times most of my driving isn't more than a few miles from home.

Advice anyone?

 

The problem is most likely related to the start button, brake switch or IPDM.

 

You mean, clutch switch. Yeah, that's possible.

 

My A/T has done this a few times, certainly not anywhere near as often as you, perhaps once a month I feel like I press the button without a response, and have that self doubt if I properly pressed it. Mines been like that since I got the car about a year and a half ago, so hopefully doesn't get worse but I'd be interested in the outcome of this either way.

 

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...-to-start.html

I had similar issues. I would get a click but car would not turn over. Lights, radio, etc. had no issues, battery tested fine so I ruled out that and alternator. After a few hours it would mysteriously start. Initially I put in a new the clutch relay switch but it didn't help. Eventually I had the starter replaced and no more issues but I wish I had seen the linked thread above and tried cleaning the starter.

 

I'd experienced starting issues with my G. Two instances very similar to yours, and more frequent ones that were not quite the same but no less alarming. First starts were always successful (except the two times), however, if I were to drive any distance, turn the car off, and then restart, she would start up and shut off. When that happens, I'd have to give a little gas to prevent it from shutting off (like the carburetor days). Then, things would be fine again until the next time. My thinking was along the lines of fuel starvation of some sort.

It wasn't a daily occurrence, but would happen multiple times throughout the week. Very embarrassing! I took her to the dealership and had them investigate, but they found nothing that would cause those symptoms. My filters were new, and I'd purchased a yellow-top battery to replace the original only a few weeks prior to my visit. It would still occur. Heck, it even happened while I traded her in for the Z. The salesmen gave a concerned stare until they witnessed she idled normal and no strange exhaust smoke or smells.

I was never able to determine what caused it...

 

My car that is an auto does this randomly too. I got a new battery last year and it has been fine since then.

 

My car did this too. I cleaned the throttle bodies and the issue went away.

 

At the very least, this problem is forcing me to recognize my battery is 6 years old, and should be replaced regardless, as a matter of proactive maintenance.

 

an old but well maintained battery can me almost as good as a new one.
Have the battery tested on a battery tester before buying a new battery.
Even from curiosity to find out how good that battery holds.
If the battery is the problem, then you should see some voltage drop signs at startup attempts.

 

I am about to replace my OEM battery on my 2012.

The photo below shows the specific gravity reading of a fully charged battery




None of the six cells no longer show a fully charged battery. They are all equal but only show a half charge in every cell.
I'm replacing my battery in the next week or two before the weather gets really cold.

I would suggest that you first replace the battery and see if the problem disappears.

Telcoman

 

Oh, I'd done the same while upgrading my intakes to the Takeda's, and it went away for like a month, then began again.

 

Welp... I just put a new battery in the car. Spent a little time researching batteries, then said fck it and bought the replacement from my local Infiniti Dealership. (Infiniti/Nissan re-brand InterState batteries, don't you know.) It was $115 + tax, plus a $20 refundable core replacement charge.

And now the new battery is in the car. Kind of a PITA removing all the plastic cowl pieces, but not rocket science. And for some reason, although the width and height of the new battery is the same as the original, it's length is over an inch wider. This extra inch now makes for an exact fit in the battery tray. And that means the OEM battery was smaller than the battery tray. So I thought that was kind of odd.

Time will tell whether this was the problem. Figure another few days of using the car. Either way, after 6 years... it was time for a new battery.

Was the original going bad? IDK... don't care. Six years old.

 

I bought mine from the dealership too and noticed this was the case as well. And you are right that it is kind of a PITA to swap. Price wise the dealer ended up being the best option.

 

Once you remove everything, including the tie-down bar, there's nothing to grab on to when pulling the old battery out. You have to just squeeze and lift... which is increasingly difficult as I get old, and certainly not good for the back. Sure wish these batteries had a strap built into them like some do.

It wasn't until this swap that I realized there's a large-ish circuit board of something or another hanging on to the positive lead. Never seen anything like that before.

What is that?