I saw that too, I have no idea. It reminds me of having a fuse on the battery terminal when you install an aftermarket amplifier. Must be something like that.

 

Thanks for this. I've had the same symptoms and was going to start a new thread.
Sometimes, I press the start button and the engine will immediately rev to 5-6000RPM but most of the time, it just starts and stalls.
Always happens on short trips.

 

Yep, it got worse when I would drive, stop and wait for 20 min or so.

 

I don't want to jinx things by calling it... but it's been a few days now, and I'm going to call it anyway.

It was the battery.

 

Too late for Jinxing. My 4yo OEM Battery died yesterday.

My radio station presets survived the transplant but my window auto-up function didnt and neither did my drivers seat programming.

 

Hold the window switch in the up position until the window is completely up, then count to five before releasing it. Rinse and repeat on the other three.

 

happened to me today after a 40min drive .. started it twice and both times after it started it just shut off as if there was a kill switch of some sort.. then on the third start I gave her a lil gas and she purred up to a normal idle... kinda scary tho, would hate to get stranded with a non starting vehicle.
Gonna clean the throttle bodies as suggested to hopefully prevent this from happening again

 

I believe that is to monitor battery voltage. As the alternator is charging the battery, once the battery receives a full charge it prevents the alternator from continuing to charge a full battery.

IPDM or something like that.

 

Over a week later, and the car *mostly* starts on first press of the ignition button. I say mostly, because there have been at least two or three times when it didn't engage, and instead went into preignition mode without cranking over the engine. However, when trying again it starts immediately afterwards. I suspect I was pressing the button too quickly, so now I'm getting in the habit of holding the ignition button down for a second or two.

That being said in full disclosure, I'm 99% sure my six year old battery was the culprit. It's wonderfull having the car simply start when I ask it to, rather than holding my breath and expecting it to fail.

Part of me was hoping the ignition button should be replaced, at which point I'd have justification for getting the red GT-R ignition switch. After all these years, I just can't justify getting the GT-R button for something I don't see when I'm sitting in the driver's seat. You could rightly argue with me that I've put lots of bling in my engine bay, and you wouldn't be wrong.

And part of me really, really wants the Fast Intentions ignition button, but would be ashamed of spending $129 + shipping on something so dumb, no matter how pretty it is:

http://www.fastintentions.com/produc...roducts_id/219



Maybe someday, on whim and against my better judgement. Because although I look at this thing and think it's pretty, in my head I know it will clash with my Stone interior. It just will.

Also... is FI selling the 2014+ trim piece, too? Somehow I don't think so. But I wrote them now and asked, just to find out. You know what might look nice? Buying the trim piece all by itself, and repainting the red as something more in matching with my interior, which means yellow/beige/gold or whatever. ConceptZ is selling the trim piece for $46:

https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...0d_p_26160.php

 

I hope you got everything figured out but you are going through everything I went through a few months ago.
I had intermittent no-start issues so I replaced the original battery. It worked fine until the same issue popped up and I replaced the clutch safety switch. Problem magically resolved for a few weeks and then reemerged. I had the car towed to my mechanic and the car started right up the next morning. A few days later and same f'in problem!
I finally had the starter tested and replaced and have had no issues since (4 months). I may have been able to clean up the connectors but I didn't see the thread and I was stressed every time I pushed the start button.

 

Email response... That black & red trim piece is *not* part of the FI start button package. It's an OEM component on the 2014+ Nismo Z.

So to get the look in that photo, it means $136.70 for the button shipped, and $54.11 for the trim piece shipped. For a grand total of $190.81.



The FI button is pretty, for sure, but only justifiable (IMO) at the average price of a GTR button. I'm done.

Glad I got that out of my system.

 

Rochester- if your car just goes for occasional short drives, you probably are not charging it enough. You may want to get a trickle charger to help prolong your new battery. I had a similar issue with my M3 where it would be dead or near dead from sitting a bit too long. Got a small trickle charger and it would fire up every time.

 

This happened to me a few weeks ago... You need to clean up the corrosion on the connection between the solenoid and the starter motor.


Notice the arcing on the nut and washer? This is why the stator motor does not spin. Some 320 grit sandpaper will fix this permanently.

If you have skinny hands it MIGHT be possible to clean the connections without removing the starter, but there is very little space. AND almost ZERO space if you have AWD.

 

GTK, Sonic. Thanks.

If ever the solenoid starts clicking instead of engaging the starter, certainly this will be first on the list of problem solving steps.

 

So much for being "99% sure it was the batttery"

As temperatures began dropping, the problem came back with a vengence. And with temps below freezing, it's an all the time kind of thing. At this point, I EXPECT the car not to start because that's normal behavior now. There have been times when I've had to press the ignition button 6 to 12 times.

Seriously... 12 times. Any day now, and it will just not start, period. Dead in the water. Kind of a scary prospect, what with winter and all.

So today I bought a new clutch position sensor for $20 at the dealership. Tomorrow I'm going to swap out the original. I'm thinking a number of things, and one of them is that when I mounted the original clutch position sensor on the aftermarket RJM Clutch Pedal assembly, maybe it was too tight at full clutch, and I've been slowly crushing the thing for the last year and a half.

I don't know. But here's hoping, and totally worth $20 to rule it out.