G37 Sedan

Top Speed Exhaust is back. Get it before it goes out of stock again..

Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:20 PM
  #16  
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From: CT
Originally Posted by SonicVQ
Add some washers to the bolts between the underbody and the brace to add a little space between it and the exhaust.
You can also slightly loosen the exhaust flanges, try to push up the exhaust and retighten. That may give you a little more room.

For the exhaust hitting the lower control arm mount, is it just one side?
If so, you can try to slightly push it the other direction, trying to make more room.
Yes it's just one side. The back muffler tips seem to be in a fine position. I don't know if maybe I put the midpipe upsidedown. I put it that the hangers are coming from the bottom not the top.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:24 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Moe_G37x
And if possible, let us hear how your new exhaust sounds..
Definitely will do tomorrow. It seems like I have an exhaust leak as well at the midpipe to y-pipe connection. Water is dripping out from there. I thought I tightened it pretty well but guess I'll check tomorrow.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:50 PM
  #18  
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Your metal hangers welded to the TopSpeed may need to be bent down a bit to give you more lift on the OEM rubber hangers, there is room for adjustment there, or at least there should be.

Just took a look at mine (mine is 4 years old so they may have changed???) and I have about an inch of space between that bracket & midpipe, and about a 1/2" space at the control arm pivot point. And yes, the welded hangers on the midpipe are welded to the underside of the pipe. Mine has a pretty good upward tilt when coming from the Ypipe flange, it's possible they changed those hangar location points or your hangers were just not lined up well from the start.
G/L

Last edited by blnewt; Apr 20, 2016 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 05:59 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
Your metal hangers welded to the TopSpeed may need to be bent down a bit to give you more lift on the OEM rubber hangers, there is room for adjustment there, or at least there should be.

Just took a look at mine (mine is 4 years old so they may have changed???) and I have about an inch of space between that bracket & midpipe, and about a 1/2" space at the control arm pivot point. And yes, the welded hangers on the midpipe are welded to the underside of the pipe. Mine has a pretty good upward tilt when coming from the Ypipe flange, it's possible they changed those hangar location points or your hangers were just not lined up well from the start.
G/L
Thanks will try that. How about the water dripping at the mid-pipe and ypipe connection.I've taken them off and back on 3 times and still dripping water. The gasket seems fine.
The pipe inside the midpipe is not even,maybe this is causing the issue(picture2&3)











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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 07:35 PM
  #20  
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blnewt: great tip on slightly bending the hanger.

I wouldn't worry about a small amount of exhaust condensation dripping. Over time rust will fill in the gap. More than likely the exhaust flange is not flat and the gasket can't make a proper seal.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 08:15 PM
  #21  
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From: CT
Originally Posted by SonicVQ
blnewt: great tip on slightly bending the hanger.

I wouldn't worry about a small amount of exhaust condensation dripping. Over time rust will fill in the gap. More than likely the exhaust flange is not flat and the gasket can't make a proper seal.
If you can see in picture 2, the midpipe is not even which might be a defect from topspeed. It's also making a hissing sound from that area. I probably just a to a muffler shop and see what they can do.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 11:00 PM
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You might need to apply a thin coat of high temp RTV sealant to both sides of that gasket. You need to apply the RTV, lightly snug the bolts to flatten the RTV, wait an hour then fully tighten it down, should take car of any leak you may have.
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 11:17 AM
  #23  
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From: CT
Originally Posted by blnewt
You might need to apply a thin coat of high temp RTV sealant to both sides of that gasket. You need to apply the RTV, lightly snug the bolts to flatten the RTV, wait an hour then fully tighten it down, should take car of any leak you may have.
Thanks will try
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 11:24 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SonicVQ
They do sound nice.
Any before/after dynos showing power gain -or- is the exhaust just for sound?
I made 292 whp 246 wtq on a dynojet with only the top speed y-pipe back exhaust on. Never got a baseline though.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 11:48 PM
  #25  
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Smile New top speed exhaust

Hi
new subsciber here. Just purchased a top speed exhaust for my 2013 g37xs sedan and iam running into the same problems.
The rear section is touching drivers side of the rear end and both pipes are up against rear suspension arms. Readusting did not work also. Probably going to heat hangers with a tourch and try to bend them up to get more clearance.
Top speed guys said it should adjust with out bending nothing and said they might have got bent durring shipping. I dont think so because the box was in good shape. At least there is no exhaust leaks.
Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 02:31 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by GSPEED
Hi
new subsciber here. Just purchased a top speed exhaust for my 2013 g37xs sedan and iam running into the same problems.
The rear section is touching drivers side of the rear end and both pipes are up against rear suspension arms. Readusting did not work also. Probably going to heat hangers with a tourch and try to bend them up to get more clearance.
Top speed guys said it should adjust with out bending nothing and said they might have got bent durring shipping. I dont think so because the box was in good shape. At least there is no exhaust leaks.
Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated.
Is Latino914 also an AWD? Maybe that brace sits different in the AWDs???
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 08:28 AM
  #27  
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From: CT
Originally Posted by blnewt
Is Latino914 also an AWD? Maybe that brace sits different in the AWDs???
Yes I'm also awd, I just left the brace off.
Flip the midpipe, so the hangers weld point start at the top, it was a better fitment for me, even though topspeed told me the hangers should be at the bottom.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:00 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by latino914
Yes I'm also awd, I just left the brace off.
Flip the midpipe, so the hangers weld point start at the top, it was a better fitment for me, even though topspeed told me the hangers should be at the bottom.
Interesting, maybe they've changed the orientation somewhere down the line?? If you can, post a pic of how that midpipe is hanging, seems like it would be even lower if you flipped it but
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 12:45 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
Interesting, maybe they've changed the orientation somewhere down the line?? If you can, post a pic of how that midpipe is hanging, seems like it would be even lower if you flipped it but
It is hanging lower, but now the rear pipes are not hitting anything in the back, also the flange at the midpipe to ypipe connection is more flush now.
I will try to get pix for it when I get a chance.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 12:08 AM
  #30  
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Need to bend hangers

My front y pipe was fine it had about a inch of clearance from the brace.
my problem is the rear section touching the suspension, the hangers are on the bottom.
going to bend hangers when I get a chance. I guess that's why this exhaust was 1/3 of price of a Ark.
at least it sounds good.
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