When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also noted that the QX50 Sport version - that's one of the differences for the Sport, the chrome and logos are blacked out. Hmm. No big brakes though - standard sliding single piston sadness.
Well, this past weekend we drove a Q5 PHEV and we both liked it. Need to lease to get the $7500 rebate, but then could buy out the lease early if we wanted. Leasing rates not terrible given price of the car. Then the insurance quote - it was as much as the lease payment!
Bear in mind we have USAA and have since 1996. Usually other insurers can't touch their rates. I'm wondering if there's a special insurance that better for hybrids and evs - the way they explained it that due to the battery pack almost any body damage = car totaled.
Looked at a GV70, she was unenthused. Next up is an Acura RDX, Volvo XC60, QX50, and the newer CX5. I think I did her wrong by looking at the nicest one first LOL - we're unlikely to afford that car given the insurance load.
Last edited by rotarymike; 04-24-2024 at 09:31 AM.
Found a mostly stock 6spd 2010 G37s sedan for a good price. Going to pick it up this Sunday and then swap over most of my parts from the 2009 XS. Super excited. Always wanted the manual anyway! I won't be out much cash other than my tune and the tax once I sell the 2009XS.
Found a mostly stock 6spd 2010 G37s sedan for a good price. Going to pick it up this Sunday and then swap over most of my parts from the 2009 XS. Super excited. Always wanted the manual anyway! I won't be out much cash other than my tune and the tax once I sell the 2009XS.
Congrats! Before you swap over your parts, you should put in an RJM clutch pedal. I makes a huge difference in the driving experience.
Also fun note - I'm 400 miles away from home in my G and the heater hose connector just let go. Whee!
Oy, sorry to hear. I’m about to buy the replacement part (metal one) to leave in the car, and hopefully I’ll get around to taking it to the shop soon enough for preventative replacement.
The connector and standard hose clamps, anything else? Seems like most folks don’t recommend replacing the hoses since they’re not a point of failure and are a pain to replace (apparently aftermarket hoses add a new point of failure, which id like to avoid)
Oy, sorry to hear. I’m about to buy the replacement part (metal one) to leave in the car, and hopefully I’ll get around to taking it to the shop soon enough for preventative replacement.
The connector and standard hose clamps, anything else? Seems like most folks don’t recommend replacing the hoses since they’re not a point of failure and are a pain to replace (apparently aftermarket hoses add a new point of failure, which id like to avoid)
Me too. Mike's situation spooked me. So I ordered the aluminum connector yesterday and am scoping out the install. I'm planning on taking the G for a road trip next month, and intend to swap this connector before the trip.
I just disassembled the FSTB, engine cover and all the engine bay trim around the battery. I'm looking at the hose connection right now, and it is a pretty cramped location, no doubt. I'm going to eyeball it for a while and get in there after the part shows up.
Edited to add: pics of the assembly on my build page.
long (16" or more) 90* needlenose for the clamps. You may have to bend the tab that holds the battery compartment top trim out of the way. Other than that, small hands help. It's not a brain intensive job.
I'd recommend pulling the entire assembly and changing the connector out of the car. MUCH easier to work on.
For parts - a metal connector - there's a few including the Z1 design & 4 OEM spring clamps and you should be good to go. The OEM clamps are a dual-spring constant tension so they don't over-compress like a screw clamp will. I only used one because one of the OEMs broke, and no Nissan or Infiniti parts on a Sunday.
I'll be replacing the whole shebang and the driver's side hose asap with OEM (except for the metal tube).
FWIW, I did NOT notice any temp spike. Only steam once I pulled into the driveway, then on opening the hood there was sprayed antifreeze and the steam/smell. Even then putting an OBD2 reader on it the temps were right at 190 and stayed there for the minute or so I was figuring out what happened - so IMHO replace now, rest easy later.
You lose about a half gallon of coolant if it pops like mine. Likely a few cups worth if the car is off and cold (just the hose contents).
Quick wash, clay and wax today. And it's supposed to rain this weekend. Really wanting to polish it but no time yet. Not bad though for a 13 year and 145,xxx mile daily.
You lose about a half gallon of coolant if it pops like mine. Likely a few cups worth if the car is off and cold (just the hose contents).
I replaced mine cold, early morning and I don't think I lost even a cup of fluid. I really expected to lose alot more. I still went through the process of removing air with the spill free funnel, but I may have been able to get away not doing this step. Has anyone made it to 150-200K without changing the heater hose connector? Mine would have likely made it another 30K miles.
My local shop said that this is an known issue across multiple Nissan models, so it should be a 100K maint. item.
04-24-2024, 09:22 AM
Mike's situation spooked me. So I ordered the aluminum connector yesterday and am scoping out the install. I'm planning on taking the G for a road trip next month, and intend to swap this connector before the trip.
