What did you do to your Sedan today?
#7007
Premier Member
iTrader: (5)
Turn signal bulb decided it didn't want to stay in anymore. Only way to get it out was to remove headlight and since I already had all the parts for 2010 conversion, no better time than now. Also installed z1 intakes that have been sitting since black Friday last year. Still need to put on the 2010 parts.
#7008
Registered Member
Appreciate it! They are no where near perfect and was my first time using a multi stage rattle can system and it was super thing and ran very easily but am happy with the result. When they are in sunlight the anodized effect really pops.
#7009
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
Pulled out the two fuel level sensors and gave the contacts a nice cleaning. Filled the tank to the max, and so far, no check engine light. Fingers crossed that fixed it. If not... Going to have to drop some more $$ for new sensors. Along with new front SS brake lines, new rotors and pads all around, and new rear tires... So much to budget for...
#7011
It has been ozone treated. The odor is fairly mild now and I’m pretty sure the seat cushions will do it for good.
#7014
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
Most people just call all shocks and springs struts I used to make the same mistake before someone on the forums here dropped some knowledge.
So, it's simple, a strut is integral, a shock and spring are not. The G has springs over shocks/dampers up front and spring on an arm and separate damper in the rear.
So, it's simple, a strut is integral, a shock and spring are not. The G has springs over shocks/dampers up front and spring on an arm and separate damper in the rear.
#7015
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
It's a pointless correction. Kind of like when people complain when someone refers to their wheels as "rims".
Or when someone says their rotors are "warped". That one gets under my skin, but I've learned to let it go.
Or when someone says their rotors are "warped". That one gets under my skin, but I've learned to let it go.
#7016
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
Also consider removing seats and center console completely and shampooing carpets, headliner, and any other material sections (e.g. a pillars, etc)
#7018
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I'm dealing with the same issue but been to busy to really deal with it much...I cleaned both of mine recently too...they didn't look that dirty btw (a little black on the contacts but no yellowing on the plastics at all)...now the gauge goes above a max when I fill up...I think maybe I need to do an ECU reset or open it back up and reseat the arms more carefully when I put them back in....I saw some posts by Flipmode007 on here and on G35driver...he did the contact cleaning and then changes his gauge cluster neither fixed it...he then changed the AC controller in the dash with a 20 dollar junkyard piece and reported it fixed the issue after a couple of years of fighting the issue...I think he said he bought extras too ...I ordered one on ebay for about he same waiting for it to come and time to install...I keep forgetting about it cause i dont even monitor the fuel gague out of habit really...I fill up every 2-3 days aftedr driving anything over 300kms...don't know if any of this helps but good luck and keep us posted...
#7019
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
I'm excited to hear if the AC controller helps your issue. I have more pressing issues to address before I get to fixing this stuff... My problem is fuel showing too high and a CEL when I fill to the max. When the tank is at 1/4, it still shows 3/4 on the gauge. Seems its the same issue, but different symptoms across different cars. Mine had no yellowing at all, Shell gas ftw . A really good friend of mine is a former Infiniti master tech, and he said over 15 years, he changed soooo many of these units. Usually, if they go, they go at about 150-200k km (I just passed 155k km). Also said its 90% chance its the more expensive passenger side sensor. I'm going to play it safe and just replace both. After shipping. its like $250 CAD on RockAuto for both. Not too bad.
Right now my maintenance list is:
Front SS brake lines - driver side ss line has the plastic coating sheared off and the steel braid is now sliding inside the metal mounting bracket...
Rear brake pads - passenger rear, one pad wearing unevenly. May need to rebuild the caliper.
New rotors - just time to replace (will do fresh pads once I get there)
Rear tires - love my Michelins, but they do wear... If anyone wants proof of our RWD bias in the X, look at my bald rears lol.
Fuel level sensors
Im sure Im forgetting something
EDIT: OH! I need new bushings for my sway bars. Last few times I had work done on the car, had my mechanic grease them... making sure to tell him to use silicone grease or to leave it alone. He did it, twice. There was some strange feeling in the car that after some research lead me to diagnose bad bushings... I checked with him... he's been using lithium grease, and it damaged the poly bushings... Just ordered my own giant tube of silicone grease, but need to get new bushings now.
Right now my maintenance list is:
Front SS brake lines - driver side ss line has the plastic coating sheared off and the steel braid is now sliding inside the metal mounting bracket...
Rear brake pads - passenger rear, one pad wearing unevenly. May need to rebuild the caliper.
New rotors - just time to replace (will do fresh pads once I get there)
Rear tires - love my Michelins, but they do wear... If anyone wants proof of our RWD bias in the X, look at my bald rears lol.
Fuel level sensors
Im sure Im forgetting something
EDIT: OH! I need new bushings for my sway bars. Last few times I had work done on the car, had my mechanic grease them... making sure to tell him to use silicone grease or to leave it alone. He did it, twice. There was some strange feeling in the car that after some research lead me to diagnose bad bushings... I checked with him... he's been using lithium grease, and it damaged the poly bushings... Just ordered my own giant tube of silicone grease, but need to get new bushings now.