GeezerB

I think my battery is straining in the morning. I own a 2012 so it's getting old. I have scheduled a dealer service (Oil change) this Friday. Should I go with their battery or get something from Sears?
I also expect the dealer to push a 25k service on me. Is this really required? Since I own the car I'm thinking I should get some of the services but I won't let them push anything on me. I already changed my cabin filter & air filters. Any suggestions on what I should allow them to do? I've been going to the same dealer since I bought my G & they seem to be ok, not pushy. I also bought my front lip from them.
Thanks for any help before Friday.....

xpcgamer

iTrader: (1)

My battery went a couple of months ago at 47K and my car is 2011. Have tested at AutoZone or what ever place. Mine was at a little over 300CCA. My new battery is like at 660CCA.

NSH PREDS

That battery should be replaced under the warranty if it is already getting weak.

My original battery failed sometime in the 35k mile range and they replaced it while doing an oil change. The replacement battery failed 18 months later so I received another. Figure at this rate I'm going to have free batteries for life.

I've only had oil changes every 3750 miles and the brake and power steering fluid flushed in the high 40k mile range. I do may own schedule based on how the fluids look. Car has just over 50k and is a 2011. Like you, I do the easy stuff myself.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Infiniti replaced the battery in my 2011 last year. I'd forgotten about that until this thread. That makes two warranty replacements on my car, the other being the passenger rear window lift motor because the auto-up woudn't

2012G37

I was thinking the same, by using a different brand, Optima battery or a similar one at sears. After 96k miles, dealer just said to me your battery is fine....I will most likely get the OEM again if and when I need a new one.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

The factory batteries are the old style with the distilled water caps.

They are pretty much junk compared to newer batteries you can get.
If they are free, then i'd say go for it.

If you are paying out of pocket, find a better battery.

I have a AGM battery. No issues in over a year..almost two years.

the_wolff

I also went AGM, no problems, no regrets.

GeezerB

What am I looking at cost wise?

the_wolff

I went Bosch Platinum Part # 35-650BAGM at Pep Boys. I think it was like $180 online, with a 20% off coupon code and $10 rebate.

telcoman

They allow the use of a battery hydrometer to test individual cells without the use of expensive test equipment.






Not true!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery

Measuring the charge level




"A hydrometer can be used to test the specific gravity of each cell as a measure of its state of charge.


Because the electrolyte takes part in the charge-discharge reaction, this battery has one major advantage over other chemistries. It is relatively simple to determine the state of charge by merely measuring the specific gravity (S.G.) of the electrolyte; the S.G. falls as the battery discharges. Some battery designs include a simple hydrometer using colored floating ***** of differing density. When used in diesel-electric submarines, the S.G. was regularly measured and written on a blackboard in the control room to indicate how much longer the boat could remain submerged.[11]
The battery's open-circuit voltage can also be used to gauge the state of charge.[12] If the connections to the individual cells are accessible, then the state of charge of each cell can be determined which can provide a guide as to the state of health of the battery as a whole, otherwise the overall battery voltage may be assessed.
Note that neither technique gives any indication of charge capacity, only charge level. Charge capacity of any rechargeable battery will decline with age and usage, meaning that it may no longer be fit for purpose even when nominally fully charged. Other tests, usually involving current drain, are used to determine the residual charge capacity of a battery."


Telcoman

SonicVQ

Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a AGM sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.

Elco

That's not true for G37.
On G37 the IPDM check the current going to and from the battery, also the battery voltage.
Once the battery voltage get's to 14,4v and the charging current get's under certain value (i think 20A) the charging is stopped and the battery voltage drop to 13.8V.
Once the current consumption from battery get's over certain value, the charging kick's in to keep the battery voltage over 13v but under 14.4v

I have a voltmeter installed on my G37 and i noticed this behavior.
The IPDM use the current sensor mounted on the wire that goes from battery negative to chassis.

If you disconnect that sensor, the battery will be charged to 14,4v and will keep it to that voltage as long the engine run's.
Only in this case your statement will apply. But i don't think anyone will do that without a good reason...

I disconnected that sensor once, too give some "extra life" to a dying battery, until i got a new one. I live in europe and a compatible battery for G37 is not that easy to get here, due to specific size.
The best option i found here was Varta E23. Little under the factory specs, but will fir in place, work's just fine and hold for about 3-4 years of normal use.

BTW!!! the car warn you when you should replace the battery
You can hear a loud BEEP on the dash when you start the car if the battery should be replaced.

Upscale Speed

iTrader: (18)

I'd recommend an XSPower D3400R Battery. Extremely powerful and not too expensive. $279.00 shipped. 1000CCA too. It fits the stock battery tray w/o modification but it's a tight fit.

SonicVQ

Elco, you are correct! Thanks for the clarification.

cdmuile

If I don't drive my '12 G37x for 5 or 6 days the battery needs charged. Is this normal for the G37?