Coupe or sedan?

 

FML, I got a "we owe you" $325 certificate when I bought my car good for a discount off my 60k mile service....... not thinking it will be doing much good now. at least it's 30k miles away.

 

Never mind checked the thread here you go. The first one you need two of them.

 

Don't buy the parts your self - shops hate when people bring in their own parts. Not to mention most shops wont warranty the work if its not their parts. Take it to a different dealership or a reputable independent shop and ask for a vehicle inspection most of the time they are free. This will let you know if your getting taken advantage of and what actually needs to be done. Never go to the stealership unless you are under warranty or going to the parts department.

 

I agree to a point but there are some shops that charge you for using your own parts but those shops I avoid, I always buy my parts because I always get the better prices online for the same part, I go to a trusted local shop that doesn't mind me taking my own parts. I do understand the warranty part but there's many cases buying you own parts is worth it.

 

Holy cr@p! $1500 for tires on a XS! That's what, 17" tires or 18"?

Andy above is right. No warranty on labor if you bring your own parts. In fact the shop may even do it as a cash only sale.

A thorough brake flush is relatively easy to do with a motive power bleeder. Coolant flush a bit more challenging but still just as easy if you have a compressor and airlift tool ( ). This tool makes it child's play to refill the system without the need to 'burp' it. I paid around $30 for 2 qts of brake fluid (pentosin dot 4), and ~$50 for 2 qts of nissan oem coolant (blue stuff).

Find a competent local shop to do this. There's probably 4-5 hours of labor for everything.

 

Most reputable shops will not install customer supplied parts. It is a huge headache for everyone if there is a problem. Shop blames the part, online store blames the shop, customer gets screwed... If you can't do it yourself you should just buy the parts from the shop that does the work.

That said I would find an independent shop because those prices are way high. If you actually need front and rear brakes don't resurface the rotors. They are cheap enough you should just get new.

You can test the wheel bearings yourself. When driving the noise should get louder when you turn the wheel to one side and quieter when you turn it the other way. Turning right loads the left wheel bearing and turning left loads the right. Which ever direction you turn makes the noise louder the opposite side has the bad bearing. If there is no change maybe both are bad, but it's rare for both to go at the same time.

Those tires seem really expensive for what you're getting. Especially if they are 17's. I'd recommend Michelin for the best all around tire on a sport sedan. Make sure you get a real alignment too. Most places just half *** set the toe and let it go...

 

WOW!!! the dealers really rob you there is USA

1. As i know, the transmission fluid is "maintenance free" (according to service manual, check the maintenance section, Note 2, page 8)
Same apply for transfer fluid.
Differential oil change is an OPTIONAL and NOT a requirement. On the service manual, they say to INSPECT the differential oil, and replace it only if needed.

2.Brake rotors resurfacing + new brake pads is WAAAY cheaper even if you use the most expensive brake pads available
I resurfaced my front rotors last week at the dealer here in Romania for about 50 USD. And maintaining this car here in europe is more expensive than in USA.
Akebono ProAct pads (awsome pads from my experience) 55 USD front set, 40 USD back set. Replacing the pads take about 15 minutes.

3. Really? 610 USD for a wheel bearing? check out this: http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/2009...657-233421.htm
4. Again, 890 for a control arm? check this: 2009 Infiniti G37 X Right Lower cntrl arm
And that's an expensive one... you can find cheaper options out there.

With their prices, the labor must be done by magic fairies... LOL

 

You can get centric premium rotors for like $75ea. Most places around here charge $60 to resurface and in my experience you are more likely to end up with a brake pulsation, poor pad wear, and shorter brake life with resurfaced rotors. It's not wrong. It's how it was always done, but very few shops I know resurface anymore. I do agree that Akebono does make great pads for the money.

 

This is my 5'th set of rotors.
I used OEM rotors, Centric Premium rotors (currently on the car), EBC rotors, slotted rotors, cross drilled rotors...
ALL of them developed the same problem sooner or later: HOT BRAKE JUDDER.
After using the brakes 2-3 times to slow down from 160-200 Km/h (100-125 Mph)they start juddering. If i let them cool down for a minute, the judder was gone.

Drilled rotors was the worst: started judder after only 500 Km.
Slotted went 14.000 Km before juddering, but made TONS of brake dust and humm when braking around 80 Km/h.

Centric premium was OK for about 10000 Km, then started juddering.

Here in Europe we have more twisty roads and we usually drive faster then in US. so we brake ALOT more.

I know that new brake rotors are cheap. But i checked all rotors after install and ALL of them had a (very) small runout. After resurfacing with on car lathe, the runout is 0 (zero). I hope will last for a while...

I also tested several brake pads.
-The car come with NISSAN JURID pads. Greate pads but TONS of brake dust.
-Next was EBC redstuff: Worse initial bite, worse brake performance and just a little less dust.
-Then i used Hawk HPS: VERY dissapointed about the manufacturing quality. The wear sensor was too wide and didn't fit properly on the brake hardware from the caliper.
I had to trim the sensor to fit properly.
Performance: Better than EBC but not even near the OEM JURID pads.
-Next was the Centric Posiquiet ceramic 105.
Almost NO initial bite when cold and VERY scary to drive in the winter mornings.
They had to get very hot to perform close to OEM pads.
The only positive side: they left NO brake dust at all.
-Then i tested Centric Premium Ceramic 301: very similar to 105 series, but noisy when cold.
The judder was less pronounced with centric pads, but still there.

-Next was the Brembo pads: Just like the OEM Jurid pads, but little less dust.
-Next was the ATE pads: Identical to brembo performance and dust.
-Now i am on the Akebono Proact pads.
Performance: Just like OEM, if not a just a very little better...
Very low dust.
The only downside: they squeel alittle when backing up on the cold mornings. I can live with that.

I kept replacing the pads and rotors, trying to solve the judder problem.
I also used the Jurid and Akebono on my G37 convertible.
The vert have the akebono BBK and never had any judder problem, even if the rotors got red hot few times.
Now i use Akebono on both G37 and i am very satisfied with their performance.

 

I am looking to buy the front and rear brake pads for about 49 dollars per set. Will i have to purchase new rotors as well if they are to worn down and cannot be resurfaced?

 

If they're to worn down and can't be resurfaced then yes.

 

would you guys buy these ceramic pads from O'reilly auto parts for 50 bucks a set?

 

Wagner by any chance?