The top layer of this contraption would be shaped different. It's modular, so you'd put a 4x4 on the top with a notch in it.

I'd rather support my car on all 4 corners by the tires than the frame. If the wheels don't need to come off, this is my preferred way, and with as little modification, a pinch weld connection can be achieved.

Here's a shot with a different topper, though I'd have a slot in mine. I'd also use more wood overall than he did.

 

Interesting, but I think I would use a 4x4 with a knotch and make sure it was beefed up. More work that I would want to do since I have jack stands though.

 

I'm working on hockey puck modifications so that my Jack stands can play nice on the pinch weld.

 

Mine arrived yesterday. Going to heat up a hanger and melt through it like butter. Going to be much better than using the OEM jack or using my own and deforming the pinch welds.

 

Are you making a Jack pad or a Jack stand pad?

 

Jack pad.

 

Is there a difference? I've used my pads for both.

 

Depends on your style jack stands. Some are flat and some have a wide arch.

 

You could get these Esco flat top jack stands instead. I really want them as I hate when the stupid pinch welds deform as well.


But 70$ for a single jack stand is steep IMO.

I have a long base low profile jack that I drive on 2x4 and jack the car up from the front sub frame. It's deep in there. Rear is easy like someone said from the diff.

 

I love those stands. I can't afford that coin for a stand though. The 3 ton Torin DOUBLE LOCK stands are on sale at Northern Tool for like $23-24 a pair. I bought two pairs, and used a $10 off coupon code. I am in the process of adapting something to work on the pinch weld right now.

 

Old carpet, with the hard backing works pretty good in the V notch of jack stands and the pinch welds. My "custom" ramps

 

I never trusted those pressed steel ramps, just seem so flimsy, and me being the DIY cheapsk8 I've used these hillbilly ramps for years. They work great, the cost is only 1 sheet of 7/16" OSB and a box of drywall screws. These are 8x36" w/ a 6" rise, if you use 1/2" wood it'll be about an inch higher. If you have a real low vehicle just space the wood further apart and make the ramps 4 foot although this will cause the price to skyrocket to about $20 total.






And when you stack them flipped and opposed it only takes up an 8x8 corner of the garage floor

 

I got 2 pairs of rhino ramps. For tasks such as oil changes where the wheels don't come off, I just jack up the front (K member) & rear (diff) ends of the car, placing a pair of ramps under the respective axles. This keeps the car level similar to having the wheels on the ground but ~12" up.

 

I want to confirm is something like this proper jack stand placement?

Where the stands are placed behind the pinch weld and going parallel to the car.

http://subaru.rockhopjohn.com/images..._jackstand.jpg

I already got a floor jack adapter that has a slit cut in it to allow the pinch weld to pass through for my hydraulic jack

 

Here's a good thread on 35driver starting w/ VQsmiles' reply 23
Safe Jack Stand Placement - Page 2 - G35Driver