car stopped accelerating
car stopped accelerating
I was driving at about 40 mph today and suddenly there was a slight jerk and then the car stopped accelerating. After pressing the accelerator it started accelerating again only to go a bit further and stop accelerating altogether. I got it to a safe spot barely, shut off the car then turned it on and everything was fine again.
Anybody know what the problem can be?
Also, a few other things my check engine light is on for about a week now. It's throwing p0300 code which is for random misfire. Got it checked by my tuner he says it maybe something to do with the ignition timing. Also when my car stopped accelerating the slip light came on and stayed on until i turned the car off.
Anybody know what the problem can be?
Also, a few other things my check engine light is on for about a week now. It's throwing p0300 code which is for random misfire. Got it checked by my tuner he says it maybe something to do with the ignition timing. Also when my car stopped accelerating the slip light came on and stayed on until i turned the car off.
Your car went into limp mode. You need to take it in to your dealer ASAP and let them deal with it under warranty. Do a search on that code and you'll see what the common fix is. It is pricey so be glad it's covered by warranty.
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I had this same problem for a 2+ year period. Mine is a 2009 G37X S that I bought brand new. I currently have 65K miles.
The problem was intermittent, but maddeningly predictable at the same time. Indeed, the car was going into limp mode and would go back to normal after pulling over and stopping and re-starting the car. It would happen once or twice a week for a period of time and then not happen for months. No lights ever flashed on the dash and repeated trips to the dealer never identified any codes. They would re-flash the hard drive and say it should be all set. It wasn't.
If anyone's ever experienced this problem they can tell you that it is truly dangerous. Imagine trying to pull out on to a highway or merge into traffic from a dead stop and have the rev limiter hit the wall at 3400rpms.
This past summer I brought the car in again and told the dealership they needed to find and fix the issue once and for all or I was dumping the car never to darken Infiniti's halls again. They did a slightly deeper dive and said it had something to do with the dealer installed remote start.
Hmmm? Probably not I thought, but possible.
2 days later it happened again. I called the dealer screaming bloody murder and this time they pulled out the stops to find the issue.
After a week they called and told me they found the problem and that one of the cam seals had been leaking oil and would throw a low oil pressure code and slip the car into limp mode. As I had been reporting the issue for over 2 years and while the car was still under the 4 years/48K mile warranty, they said it would be gratis. That was on Tuesday. The car, they said, should be ready by the weekend.
Friday morning they called and said while the car was all put back together, it still wasn't acting right and they wanted to keep the car for a little longer. As I had a 2013 G loaner, I said sure.
The next week they called back and said that the leaky cam seal was only part of the issue. The timing had gone out and one of the valves scuffed a piston. Now they were looking at either replacing the piston and valve or installing a brand new long block. WTF?
After dealing with corporate, they decided to install a long block (again, at no charge to me).
I've had the car back for about a month now, and knock on dashboard, things seem OK.
The moral to this story? If your car is under warranty, make sure you get them to document every little complaint you have and never take no for an answer.
Sorry for the long post.
The problem was intermittent, but maddeningly predictable at the same time. Indeed, the car was going into limp mode and would go back to normal after pulling over and stopping and re-starting the car. It would happen once or twice a week for a period of time and then not happen for months. No lights ever flashed on the dash and repeated trips to the dealer never identified any codes. They would re-flash the hard drive and say it should be all set. It wasn't.
If anyone's ever experienced this problem they can tell you that it is truly dangerous. Imagine trying to pull out on to a highway or merge into traffic from a dead stop and have the rev limiter hit the wall at 3400rpms.
This past summer I brought the car in again and told the dealership they needed to find and fix the issue once and for all or I was dumping the car never to darken Infiniti's halls again. They did a slightly deeper dive and said it had something to do with the dealer installed remote start.
Hmmm? Probably not I thought, but possible.
2 days later it happened again. I called the dealer screaming bloody murder and this time they pulled out the stops to find the issue.
After a week they called and told me they found the problem and that one of the cam seals had been leaking oil and would throw a low oil pressure code and slip the car into limp mode. As I had been reporting the issue for over 2 years and while the car was still under the 4 years/48K mile warranty, they said it would be gratis. That was on Tuesday. The car, they said, should be ready by the weekend.
Friday morning they called and said while the car was all put back together, it still wasn't acting right and they wanted to keep the car for a little longer. As I had a 2013 G loaner, I said sure.
The next week they called back and said that the leaky cam seal was only part of the issue. The timing had gone out and one of the valves scuffed a piston. Now they were looking at either replacing the piston and valve or installing a brand new long block. WTF?
After dealing with corporate, they decided to install a long block (again, at no charge to me).
I've had the car back for about a month now, and knock on dashboard, things seem OK.
The moral to this story? If your car is under warranty, make sure you get them to document every little complaint you have and never take no for an answer.
Sorry for the long post.
I had this same problem for a 2+ year period. Mine is a 2009 G37X S that I bought brand new. I currently have 65K miles.
The problem was intermittent, but maddeningly predictable at the same time. Indeed, the car was going into limp mode and would go back to normal after pulling over and stopping and re-starting the car. It would happen once or twice a week for a period of time and then not happen for months. No lights ever flashed on the dash and repeated trips to the dealer never identified any codes. They would re-flash the hard drive and say it should be all set. It wasn't.
If anyone's ever experienced this problem they can tell you that it is truly dangerous. Imagine trying to pull out on to a highway or merge into traffic from a dead stop and have the rev limiter hit the wall at 3400rpms.
This past summer I brought the car in again and told the dealership they needed to find and fix the issue once and for all or I was dumping the car never to darken Infiniti's halls again. They did a slightly deeper dive and said it had something to do with the dealer installed remote start.
Hmmm? Probably not I thought, but possible.
2 days later it happened again. I called the dealer screaming bloody murder and this time they pulled out the stops to find the issue.
After a week they called and told me they found the problem and that one of the cam seals had been leaking oil and would throw a low oil pressure code and slip the car into limp mode. As I had been reporting the issue for over 2 years and while the car was still under the 4 years/48K mile warranty, they said it would be gratis. That was on Tuesday. The car, they said, should be ready by the weekend.
Friday morning they called and said while the car was all put back together, it still wasn't acting right and they wanted to keep the car for a little longer. As I had a 2013 G loaner, I said sure.
The next week they called back and said that the leaky cam seal was only part of the issue. The timing had gone out and one of the valves scuffed a piston. Now they were looking at either replacing the piston and valve or installing a brand new long block. WTF?
After dealing with corporate, they decided to install a long block (again, at no charge to me).
I've had the car back for about a month now, and knock on dashboard, things seem OK.
The moral to this story? If your car is under warranty, make sure you get them to document every little complaint you have and never take no for an answer.
Sorry for the long post.
The problem was intermittent, but maddeningly predictable at the same time. Indeed, the car was going into limp mode and would go back to normal after pulling over and stopping and re-starting the car. It would happen once or twice a week for a period of time and then not happen for months. No lights ever flashed on the dash and repeated trips to the dealer never identified any codes. They would re-flash the hard drive and say it should be all set. It wasn't.
If anyone's ever experienced this problem they can tell you that it is truly dangerous. Imagine trying to pull out on to a highway or merge into traffic from a dead stop and have the rev limiter hit the wall at 3400rpms.
This past summer I brought the car in again and told the dealership they needed to find and fix the issue once and for all or I was dumping the car never to darken Infiniti's halls again. They did a slightly deeper dive and said it had something to do with the dealer installed remote start.
Hmmm? Probably not I thought, but possible.
2 days later it happened again. I called the dealer screaming bloody murder and this time they pulled out the stops to find the issue.
After a week they called and told me they found the problem and that one of the cam seals had been leaking oil and would throw a low oil pressure code and slip the car into limp mode. As I had been reporting the issue for over 2 years and while the car was still under the 4 years/48K mile warranty, they said it would be gratis. That was on Tuesday. The car, they said, should be ready by the weekend.
Friday morning they called and said while the car was all put back together, it still wasn't acting right and they wanted to keep the car for a little longer. As I had a 2013 G loaner, I said sure.
The next week they called back and said that the leaky cam seal was only part of the issue. The timing had gone out and one of the valves scuffed a piston. Now they were looking at either replacing the piston and valve or installing a brand new long block. WTF?
After dealing with corporate, they decided to install a long block (again, at no charge to me).
I've had the car back for about a month now, and knock on dashboard, things seem OK.
The moral to this story? If your car is under warranty, make sure you get them to document every little complaint you have and never take no for an answer.
Sorry for the long post.
Did the slip light come on by any chance when your car went into limp mode? I have a supercharger in my car, so I'm pretty sure my warranty will be void. So I try to avoid the dealership as long as possible. The only explanation my tuner managed to give me was that the traction control system kicked in and cut my acceleration altogether, thus the slip light came on and stayed on. I assume that when the car goes into limp mode it lets you rev till 3k, however this was not my case. There were no throttle response whatsoever. The only reason I was able to move was because in "D" the car creeps on its own. Also I got the codes scanned for the check engine light and it turned out to be a random misfire code which is probably fixed now, the ignition timing was off I guess.
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The problem was intermittent, but maddeningly predictable at the same time. Indeed, the car was going into limp mode and would go back to normal after pulling over and stopping and re-starting the car.
...one of the cam seals had been leaking oil and would throw a low oil pressure code and slip the car into limp mode.
warranty labor was ~18hrs and parts were ~$400. my ECU/ECM was also replaced at $1k and another hour of labor. once again i advise the OP to get this dealt with ASAP under warranty.
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