Im at about 32000 miles and its time for new brakes and probably rotors since I'm feeling vibrations. I have the an 09 G37xS so i dont have the bigger brakes. Any recommendations for a decent quiet, low dust setup with good bite? Anyone recommend cross-drilled or slotted rotors?

 

If you dont mind spending a little money, go with a set of DBA's with Hawk Ceramic pads. I have used these on my 06 GTO and they are amazing. They are a lot cheaper than going with a BBK and have great stopping power with no fade. Look into the 4000 series slotted rotors.

 

I'd recommend akenbono pads. They are quiet and have little dust. You can find them on tirerack or amazone. The oem rotors are ok but the oem pads are what cause the vibration.

 

Most ppl say stick w oem

 

I'd recommend OEM equivalents from any auto parts store.

Specialty pads (ceramic, carbon metallic, etc) offer improvement in certain areas but almost always force a tradeoff.

For example - pads with a stronger bite are hard on rotors and will wear them out faster. Pads designed to resist fading will often be noisier than you'd like. Pads designed to be quiet may create more brake dust. There are lots of tradeoffs.

I'm going to climb on my soap box here for a second. Most people on this board will disagree with what I'm about to say.

Unless you race your car on a track, drilled or slotted rotors will serve no purpose other than cosmetics (and to inform people in-the-know that you paid a lot of money for your brakes). There is simply no driving you will be able to do on public roads that will benefit from drilled/slotted rotors. Drilled/slotted rotors exist to mitigate fade caused by the build-up of heat and gas pressure between the pad and rotor; not to provide shorter stopping distance.

 

Resurface your rotors and I would say get akebono proact pads. You can get it from rockautoparts, it's usually the cheapest.

 

YES, YES, and YES.



Slight nitpick - Cross drilled rotors are a no no for 'hard' track use Stick w/ slotted for tracks. Cross drilled are great at saving a touch of weight to decrease your drag slip times, but are not suited for 30 min epic lapping sessions

 

 

Before doing brakes for any of my customers, I always cross reference their vehicle with the following bulletin to see if they need updated shields. The new shields are larger, and wrap over the entire rotor - this prevents uneven cooling.

 

Have you looked into this TSB ITB09-037b. You might get some free parts and labour. When I had an 07X I was in twice for brake judder. The first time (about 40k km) they turned the rotors and changed the brake pads. The second time (about 60k km) they replaced the rotors and front brakes pads and installed the new front brake backing plate (splash guard assembly). I never paid anything.

Edit: bythabay beat me to it. I'm to slow at finding and uploading my pdf's. You can print off the pdf's and take them in to your dealer.

 

project mu 2 pcs rotors with project mu club racer pads.

 

I've been running Powerslot Cryo rotors with Hawk HPS's on all 4 axles of my '07 X for nearly 2 years now and while this setup was obnoxiously expensive (like $670 for everything from TireRack), I'm still warp free and the pads still have at least 50% material left on them; I love their ferro-carbon composition.

 

I agree for all dry weather situations. The only advantage in running slotted and/or cross-drilled rotors is wet braking because of all of the extra evacuation channels available. This wet-braking advantage doesn't compensate for the dry-braking disadvantage of having a smaller surface area for the brake pads to come into contact with (especially true with drilled rotors). The decreased surface area along with the increased propensity to crack rotors leaves me completely uninterested in drilled rotors and the wet braking performance increase from slotted rotors isn't significant enough to make them a cost-efficient option over plain rotors.

 

I got mine resurfaced with new pads for free on this TSB. I had a bit of judder when braking. I think I was around 15k miles.

 

How did you get the dealer to do it twice? Dealer didn't try to say it was a wear and tear item at 60k km? I had the tsb done at 11k miles and it was back around 20k. I rebedded the brakes at 20k and it helped some, but now at 32k it's back really bad. It's embarrassing if anybody else is in the car cause it feels like it's going to fall apart.