G37 Sedan

irregular clearbra on bumper installation?

Old Jun 16, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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irregular clearbra on bumper installation?

Hi everyone,

Briefly, I'm a short time lurker on these forums, but found this place to be a good resource in making an informed purchase of an 09 G37x sedan, now a little over two weeks now as owner of my first car

While I'd like to make a proper intro to the vehicle, I'll cut straight to the point, I got a clearbra (Ventureshield) installation done today as many of you guys seemed quite positive of the product. While I had my dad bring it in, coming back from work I noticed the following:



If you didn't notice it's the green line denoting a gap as big as the line is showing when viewed in person. Does that area require to be in two pieces like that? or as noticeable? (similar gap line on the other side) The others areas treated seem okay to me, so this has me puzzled. Any helpful suggestions or comments would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 03:17 AM
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I'd suggest you call the installers & have them explain this feature you see. While on new fresh installs of clear bra would have some very light bubbling, or mild haziness, it should not have linear imperfections.

I have ventureshield placed but did not notice such lines where it was not suppose to be. What I have is a seemingly singular cut of film on the front area of the car. Did the installer intentionally used two or more sectional cuts. I strongly recommended you get in touch with them while the job is that new.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 07:28 AM
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First of all the kit they used is in two pieces. A lot of kits come like that since the compound curves of the bumper can be very difficult to do on some bumpers. VentureShield makes their own patterns but there are many other pattern companies out there that can be utilizied with any film... i.e. a 3M or Proform pattern with VentureShield film. Unless you specifically told him up front you wanted a one piece kit then you really do not have an argument to go with there.

I am not sure why there is a gap in it though unless he is worried about getting wax residue or dirt build up in the seem. From what I can tell (photo is too blurry) it looks like he did a pretty good install. Better pictures would help out a lot.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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I just checked mine and it's exactly the same. That's the pattern they use as shown here:

http://members.invisiblepatterns.com...)2007_9999.jpg

There's nothing wrong with it and although the gap may be more than you'd expect (mine is looks to be a few mm) it's fine. You'll also notice that piece has a seam in the center of the lower bumper as well since it has a left and right piece.

It makes the installation easier with more manageable sized pieces and the multiple curves. From a few feet away I don't even see it.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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With the nightmare I had with first application on G, I would not be worried about the small gap if you don't have stretch marks, finger prints, air bubbles, poor corner wrapping, etc. In other words, if the rest of the job is good and this is the only "concern", I would be very happy with the job. But like HTP Autoworks said, better pics would help.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HTP AutoWorks
I am not sure why there is a gap in it though unless he is worried about getting wax residue or dirt build up in the seem. From what I can tell (photo is too blurry) it looks like he did a pretty good install. Better pictures would help out a lot.
So, does any of you wax your car after the installation? Any residue on the hood line?

Sy
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sytrash
So, does any of you wax your car after the installation? Any residue on the hood line?

Sy
Give it a few days to cure. It takes longer than that but the majority of the water should be gone after a few days. After that I recommend Zaino or a good non-yellowing wax to protect the film with. If you take care of the clear bra it will last a long time. Just be careful when applying it around the edges as to not leave any residue.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HTP AutoWorks
Give it a few days to cure. It takes longer than that but the majority of the water should be gone after a few days. After that I recommend Zaino or a good non-yellowing wax to protect the film with. If you take care of the clear bra it will last a long time. Just be careful when applying it around the edges as to not leave any residue.
^ +1

You can apply wax or polish to the film just like you would to the bare paint. I've already applied several coats of Zaino polish and Clear Seal. There's no residue on the seam.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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Unfortunately, there are lots of unprofessional installers out there who don't do a clean custom install.

Most of the members here are a long way from my location, and this is not a solicitation for work, but I have a LOT of information on my website concerning clearbras. My jobs are usually VERY hard to tell that it is even on the car. I do not use kits. Kits will NEVER give you the results of a custom installed application off of bulk rolls. I only use 3m also. Some competitors products may look great going on, but can become contaminated far sooner from bug impacts, etc.

I suggest using a very soft toothbrush to remove the wax line that may happen at the edge of a clearbra. & good advice on the use of non-yellow wax. (I like Techwax myself)

If you want more info, please take a peek.

Post up any other questions you may have also.

www.invisibra.net
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 02:01 AM
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What's an example of "yellowing" wax? I don't usually do real waxing. I use a bottle of zymol cleaner wax only for my other cars. Is it a problem?
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Sytrash
What's an example of "yellowing" wax? I don't usually do real waxing. I use a bottle of zymol cleaner wax only for my other cars. Is it a problem?
Carnuba cream waxes are yellowing... If it comes out of the bottle with a strong yellow hue, then it may be a problem. The Techwax comes out white, which is why I like it.

And, you only will really notice the yellowing on a brightly colored vehicle. Black, or dark colors probably won't even be noticeable.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Invisibra
Carnuba cream waxes are yellowing... If it comes out of the bottle with a strong yellow hue, then it may be a problem. The Techwax comes out white, which is why I like it.

And, you only will really notice the yellowing on a brightly colored vehicle. Black, or dark colors probably won't even be noticeable.
How about Griot's Best of show wax?
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...of+show+wax.do

All Carnuba wax are yellowing? I thought for the G's "self healing" clear coat, we should only be using Carnuba wax...that's an issue....
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Sorry, I'm not a 'wax expert' just going by what I've been told by 3m or my distributor...

You could use the carnuba cream on the painted portions of you car, & just use the other wax on the bra. No problem.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Invisibra
Unfortunately, there are lots of unprofessional installers out there who don't do a clean custom install.

Most of the members here are a long way from my location, and this is not a solicitation for work, but I have a LOT of information on my website concerning clearbras. My jobs are usually VERY hard to tell that it is even on the car. I do not use kits. Kits will NEVER give you the results of a custom installed application off of bulk rolls. I only use 3m also. Some competitors products may look great going on, but can become contaminated far sooner from bug impacts, etc.

I suggest using a very soft toothbrush to remove the wax line that may happen at the edge of a clearbra. & good advice on the use of non-yellow wax. (I like Techwax myself)

If you want more info, please take a peek.

Post up any other questions you may have also.

www.invisibra.net
And unfortunately there are a lot of custom installers out there that will cut your paint up. I can tell you from firdt hand experience that most of the so called "custom" installers cut the paint during the application process. The problem is that the customer will not know it unless the film is removed... because the cuts are along the films seem line. I am not saying you are one of them, but 95% of the custom installers out there are. Using bulk film cuts down on the installers costs because they do not have to pay for a plotter, patterns, and other equipment needed to cut kits.

Being in Vegas I would think you would know that there ARE kits out there that will look as good as a custom install without taking a chance on cutting the paint. ProForm Designs is located in Vegas and their kits are the best in the industry. Their kits with a film such as ClearMask AR or VentureShield produce the best results IMHO. You get wrapped edges and patterns that are designed with minimal seems and a film that looks as good as the cars finish. 3M has entirely too much orange peel to it... so much so that from 10 feet awat I can see what areas are covered and what areas arent...unless the cars paint has a lot of orange peel in the first place.

Because most of the people in this forum are not at your location (taking it you do not cut the paint) I would think you could agree that doing custom installs in an art form and people here should not just go to any shop to have it done. In fact they would be better off finding a good kit installer so they would not go through the hassel of getting their paint damaged.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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I agree that there are poor installers, whether it is a custom install, OR a kit. That is how I started my earlier post, however, even on kits, some trimming is often required. There are also a lot of vehicles that no kit exists for. I'd REALLY not want someone who only has kit experience trying to do a custom install on my motorcycle tank, fairings, or on a 50's classic hotrod, etc.

However, whether it is a kit, or custom, it is the experience that counts most. But, years of experience isn't always the determining factor. Like you said, it is an art form. I was doing better work than those that trained me within the first year or two, because I cared about the job & customer satisfaction.

Nothing beats examples of work. If you can SEE the installers work, that is best.

I agree that 3M has more orange peel than some, however, I have a sample of material that I removed from an AUDI. It is DARK brown. I've seen and used many competitors products, & while they may go on perfect, many of them show the 'dirt' from road grim, that embeds itself into the product, causing it to look dirty prematurely.

Now, to say your personal experience shows you that 95% of custom installers damage cars is interesting... You would have to have owned 100% of the cars ever clearbra'ed, & 95% of them were damaged.

A more accurate statement that would not be misleading, would be that you have had 2? 3? cars done custom, and had damage, right?

I have removed my work from several cars that were in accidents, etc, so that they could get body work done. No cut lines in the paint, no damage caused by me. But I HAVE seen damage when removing OTHER installers work (Usually to do the whole job over correctly). You just have to see examples of the installers work to be sure.

A very large percentage of the work done in Colorado, which is where clearbra really had it's biggest start is done as a custom install, off of a bulk roll. Also, the $ cost savings in working from bulk are by far negated by the extra time & effort that it takes to install (The way I do it anyways, because I INSIST on it being as close to perfect as possible.)

On the other hand, kits HAVE come a long ways. I've seen some of ProForm's work, & it is good. I still would put my custom job up against theirs any day, especially on the front bumper, where you will be seriously challenged to even tell it has the bra on it.

One of my biggest issues with kits, is that you MUST handle the material that is going on the car. Fingerprints, & contamination are much more likely. When I install from bulk, I handle and stretch on the material past the areas that will ultimately be on the vehicle. I cut away where I've grabbed.

The bumper in the picture above has a big seam in it. My job would have been one complete smooth application, no seams.

The picture I've attached shows why I've never liked kits. Poor fit. Not saying some out there don't fit well, but my installs ALWAYS fit pefectly.

Don't forget. The purpose of the clearbra is to protect the paint, so anywhere that it does not cover, is not protected. I've seen so many kits that just don't protect as much as should be, which makes it a waste of $$.

No matter what work you need done, if it's paint work, mechanical, clearbra, etc, it's most important to be sure of your service professional.

Not trying to offend any particular business, or installer out there, but I defend my work as the best possible.

Last edited by Invisibra; Jun 22, 2009 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Picture didn't post... It's on next post (Page 2)
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