Yes. Electronic Steering Column Lock.

Not always but in most cases if the light remains ON there is a issue with iKey/ security system.

The key phrase there is " a stiff pedal." This means you lost reserve vacuum. This makes the brake pedal harder to push. In this case, I would suggest you reconnect your battery, get in the car, and WITH ALL YOUR LEG MUSCLE push the brake pedal as hard as you can until you verify the the brake lights come on, then try starting the car.

Also, specifically, which key icon? There are 2.

Report back and we'll go from there.

 

Thanks for the response. I was referring to the hard brake pedal that sometimes happens when it fails to start when the key isn't close enough to the cockpit.
If it starts I'm gonna get ready to pull the fuse you mentioned. It looks like the shroud around the battery must be removed to access that fuse panel?

 

The reason I mention the brake pedal is because being it is hard to push, you may not be pushing it far enough for the brake switch to close. This is why I suggested you press the pedal down as far as you can until you know for sure the brake lights are on. Then try starting.

The IPDM/er unclips from its bracket and slides up. There is just enough slack in harness for it to clear the space and allow access to the fuses.

 

Ok, I connected the negative battery cable back up. The brake lights do light up when pedal is pushed. Nothing but the key warning light comes on when trying to start. (with or without the fob in the storage hole)
The start button won't even move to accessory or on. Pwr locks and everything else seems to work. I tried opening/closing doors & pressing all the buttons on the remote trying to 'chance' some sort of reset while starting. No go. Panic button won't even make the horn go bezerk.
Are there any other at home tests to determine if it's the ESCL or another failure? If not, What kind of mechanic should I be looking for? Independent nissan or dealer only?
I haven't had to use a mechanic other than tire stuff in over 15 years with all my cars..

 

Based off those symptoms it seems that there is a issue with the key ID verification between the iKeys (fobs) and the BCM. Being that RKE (Remote Keyless Entry) isn't even working points to the BCM not communicating at all with the fobs. In this case I doubt it is your ESCL.

Is the BCM wet?
Did you try the other fob?
Did this pop up "out of the blue" or have there been signs of erratic behavior prior?

At this point if the BCM is dry and fuses good, I would call a QUALIFIED locksmith and have them come out and try re-syncing your fobs (all of them) to the car.

 

What is RKE?
Nothing on the car should be wet. No rain lately & garage parked. Where is the BCM?
I just have the 1 FOB. There have not been signs of erratic behavior before this.
Are you referring to all the fuses or just a few pertinent ones? (The fuse on the battery is intact)
Thanks

 

My bad. RKE= Remote Keyless Entry.

BCM is on passenger-side footwell behind a kick panel trim piece.

There are 3 fuses that supply power to the BCM:

1. 40amp at the battery + terminal.
2. #7, 10amp, driver-side fuse block
3. #10, 10amp, driver-side fuse block

I would check the fuses and the connectors at the BCM. If all are good, clean, and tight then you can either try the locksmith route or have it look at by a qualified mechanic.

Perhaps others will have other ideas/ tips/ tricks.

 

Thanks, I will check them out. I was in a rush earlier trying to get to work, I didn't mention that the steering wheel can turn back & forth.
Does that right there rule out the ESCL? I know we've moved on from that but it would be nice to know.
I'm also gonna check the steering wheel lock mechanism under the wheel/dash. (if it has one)

 

It still could be the ESCL as it may not have fully retracted the pin (which sets a series of microswitches) to confirm the ID verification. By all means, go out there and bang on it lightly a few times while trying the key. At this point no harm no foul (just don't beat the living hell out of it).

But, being the car does not respond to the fob AT ALL points to the BCM.

The locksmith should be able to determine which is the culprit in a matter of moments (ie. what module(s) he can not establish a connection with).

 

Well that was eazzy.. Found the steering lock mechanism under the steering wheel dash, Wiggled the wired plug going into it and heard a click. (the gear disengaging?)
Pressed the start button to ACC then On, Walked over to the IPDM fuse box and pulled the steering lock fuse. Started right up. (multiple times)
Didn't even need to take apart the lower dash.
Now I just need to let it relearn idle/what not from when I disconnected the battery. How long does that take?
Thanks for helping me. You should take paypal donations.

 

You and member tite_tite must have some serious positive mojo or a army of guardian angels on your side. As I suspected in this case, the module did not retract the pawl enough to set the contact switches. When you "wiggled" the connector it was just enough to fully set the pawl and then allow for ID verification.

You should not have to perform any Idle relearn after a battery disconnect. After a few driving cycles if it is still erratic then you can try the DIY- Idle Air Volume Relearn Procedure.

You are more than welcome.

 

I have pulled the fuse & feel much better, no complaint..

..wanted to see if anyone have experience a "delay" (maybe 3-5 second) car start up after pulling the fuse? as mentioned no complaint but noticed at time there is a delay w/ the car start up.. no biggie as long as I can feel at piece with no steering lock issue. Thanks

 

Not always, but mine does that every once in a while. It doesn't affect all cars it seems. It is just the BCM going through the ID Verification.

The only "negative" from pulling the fuse, for me, is that I can longer open the windows with the key fob. I can deal with that...