Hazards lights don’t work correctly | shop blames sub woofer wiring
Hazards lights don’t work correctly | shop blames sub woofer wiring
Last year in may (2021) I unfortunately got water in my car during a bad storm. Notorious sun roof leak.
this resulted in breaking the BCM. A shop replaced the BCM via car insurance. I picked up the car and the turn signals weren’t working, I immediately turned around and dropped the car back off. They fixed it and all was fine or so I thought.
last month (sept 2022) I got into a minor fender bender after guy cut me off. During the event I discovered the hazards don’t work correctly. (Accident did not affect hazards/Bcm/lights) when you press the hazard light button the hazards engage and turn on however the moment you release the button the hazards turn off.
From my research the button creates a ground connection and the Bcm keeps the lights on until pressed again and another ground connection made.
I called the shop regarding this and said it’s probably the button. (Which didn’t make much sense to me) so I ordered a new multifunction switch online just to try it out. Swapped the whole multi function switch out and nada still same exact problem and no other problems.
I called the shop again and they told me to bring it in.
this is where it gets weird; they looked it over for awhile. Eventually came back with this:
the remote start wire for the amplifier to the subwoofer was routed and tapped into a wire for the BCM and thus may have caused it to improperly ground or something ruining the BCM.
the remote start wire is simply a wire that receives a 12v incoming to tell the amp to turn on that’s all. It’s purpose to to tell the amp when and when not to be on so it doesn’t drain the battery.
i don’t understand how wiring a remote start wire to the wires of the Bcm would cause JUST the hazard lights to wrong improperly. Again they turn on and engage but don’t stay on unless continuously pressed. What is odd is that the old BCM which was wired exactly the same worked just fine with this wiring configuration and was only ruined by water getting in. So the idea that this wiring config ruined a brand new Bcm when the old Bcm worked jsut fine no issues kind of confuses me.
any one with any idea as to why what they said would be true and/or other things I can look at to fix this issue?
(a shop installed that wiring kit and amp/sub what shop idk was from previous owner)
this resulted in breaking the BCM. A shop replaced the BCM via car insurance. I picked up the car and the turn signals weren’t working, I immediately turned around and dropped the car back off. They fixed it and all was fine or so I thought.
last month (sept 2022) I got into a minor fender bender after guy cut me off. During the event I discovered the hazards don’t work correctly. (Accident did not affect hazards/Bcm/lights) when you press the hazard light button the hazards engage and turn on however the moment you release the button the hazards turn off.
From my research the button creates a ground connection and the Bcm keeps the lights on until pressed again and another ground connection made.
I called the shop regarding this and said it’s probably the button. (Which didn’t make much sense to me) so I ordered a new multifunction switch online just to try it out. Swapped the whole multi function switch out and nada still same exact problem and no other problems.
I called the shop again and they told me to bring it in.
this is where it gets weird; they looked it over for awhile. Eventually came back with this:
the remote start wire for the amplifier to the subwoofer was routed and tapped into a wire for the BCM and thus may have caused it to improperly ground or something ruining the BCM.
the remote start wire is simply a wire that receives a 12v incoming to tell the amp to turn on that’s all. It’s purpose to to tell the amp when and when not to be on so it doesn’t drain the battery.
i don’t understand how wiring a remote start wire to the wires of the Bcm would cause JUST the hazard lights to wrong improperly. Again they turn on and engage but don’t stay on unless continuously pressed. What is odd is that the old BCM which was wired exactly the same worked just fine with this wiring configuration and was only ruined by water getting in. So the idea that this wiring config ruined a brand new Bcm when the old Bcm worked jsut fine no issues kind of confuses me.
any one with any idea as to why what they said would be true and/or other things I can look at to fix this issue?
(a shop installed that wiring kit and amp/sub what shop idk was from previous owner)
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